Not your usual way of doing things...I gotta be me. I just finished my "about every 3 years" stereo re-do, Fall 2011. The main box is 5.3 cu. ft, single-chamber. The box has a blockable 30Hz Helmholtz resonator port; I prefer the sealed, lower-frequency sound over all-out SPL. Speakers in this box are four Hifonics 12D4 DVC 12-inch woofers. Each speaker has its voice coils wired in series (8 Ohms) then paired with a mate in parallel (4 Ohms). The Aux Box is made from a Sonotube concrete form, and holds two Kicker 10" speakers. One is a Comp model, the other an Impulse, and each one gets 1.43 cu. ft., sealed. The smaller tube is 4" ABS, and holds 4" Kicker DS40's with the tweeters removed (to make them less bright). I'd put these in to get my speaker wiring to the correct impedance for my amplifier (4 Ohms), but their placement here really does a lot for imaging. In the top pic are visible, two 5'25" Kickers in the ceiling console, these mate up with 6" Kickers in all doors, and four more added Kicker tweeters in various locations. Twinned Crunch GPV1100.2 Ground Pounder amplifiers drive the system, cutoff frequency is about 100Hz. Only the gut-shuddering lows go to the two banks of subwoofers, and it can really sneak up on you with some music selections. "Pretty" is not usually on my build criteria, but at least I tried to match the interior this time with vinyl and grey carpeting. In this shot, you see a steel woofer grille covered in carpeting. My dogs didn't like riding in the back (I wonder why), so I just put two other woofers there later on. My DIY Mechless (hacked a fresh-out-of-the-box new one) Kenwood KDC-348U came with a remote control, and I hacked it, too. The remote's PCB is under the passenger seat along with the Kenwood's main chassis. Computer drive cabling is used to make the connections between head and formerly-removeable faceplate. Standard IDC (Insulation Displacement Connector) connections allow future servicing or dis assembly. I built my own interface cabling: if the Kenwood is switched on, the amplifiers and speakers automatically connect to it instead of the factory stereo (still in place). Also, 3v power is provided to run the remote's PCB, see below for why. With the stereo above the rear-view mirror, I need handier access to the volume control. Using the guts from the factory wireless remote, I added volume buttons to the stock radio bezel/surround.