Gauge problems and battery draw 2001 2500HD with 6.0 PLEASE help

Discussion in 'GM Electrical Tech' started by FastYZFR6, Sep 17, 2012.

  1. FastYZFR6

    FastYZFR6 New Member

    My cluster died only the turn indicators and C/E light work. All gauges, message center, PRND, ABS, brake, seat belt, high beam indicator, tow haul light are all dead checked all fuses are all good, I have power at both pink wires at the cluster (IGN 0 and IGN 1) also power at the orange and brown wires. And the ground on the black wire is good, tried adding a ground directly to the black on cluster as well, Checked and verified grounds with direct wire to battery at left rear of engine, lower frame under drivers door, and radiator support. I have tried 2 other clusters, put the non working cluster from the truck in a diffrent truck and it works fine. Radio works trans shifts and drives normal... Sometimes when swapping clusters or pluging it in or starting it the fuel gauge and temp go up a lil If you bump the key towards start with it running the gauges will move up about 1/16" then back to nothing I did have the fuel gauge and oil gauge ever so slightly jumpping one time. Also the data wire grey A5 has a flickering test light and others have same type stuff either constant or whatever so it seems stuff should be working.

    The battery draw some of what I noticed odd is a small cycle noise from the front diff actuator that started when this gauge problem did. Also the headlamps were staying on like 30 sec or more after shutting off the truck and sometimes the relay would click like 3 times in a row or more fast. I swapped BCMs and didn't help I swapped them with the truck running on one of my times to avoid the theft no start and somewhere after that I lost my auto headlamps now not sure if it's related to that or if it's just something that has progressed. The front diff actuator still makes noise with the under hood PCM unplugged and I tried a diffrent known good PCM from a 5.3 truck I didn't program the anti theft but when it starts for the 10th of a sec there is still no gauges or PRND....the only way to make the actuator stop the noise was to unplug the 4x4 control modual or battery. I also found in the underhood fuse pannel that mice had chewed a few wires insulation but not broken though the wires I discoverd that a couple years ago and taped them up and they still look the same as when I discoverd them. I bought the truck 2 years ago it was a rollover and had no windsheild when I got it so it had gotten the top and inside floors and... wet for a while. When I cleaned it up and had the dash appart I unplugged and removed all the onstar moduals and the truck has ran fine like that for the past 2 years with 0 Electrical problems.

    My next order of stuff to try is unplugging the Neutral safty switch see what that dose, maybe try a diffrent ign switch, make sure all the wires on he cluster plug are tight. If all that dosn't work I am going to put in my 5.3 ECM and BCM and program the anti theft to them and see if that helps. I am ready to pull my hair out so any help would be GREAT

  2. Crawdaddy

    Crawdaddy All hail the Mad King!! Staff Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts Platinum Contributor

    It sounds like you have a wiring harness issue somewhere. I would carefully go through the entire harness looking for evidence of mice chewing through it, chafed wires or even possible places where it could rub, and at major connectors/junctions like your ignition switch. There's something wrong with the harness that you're going to have to find. It's going to be tedious and a pain in the butt, but it needs to be done.
  3. FastYZFR6

    FastYZFR6 New Member

    I went through the area in that under the hood fuse box and fixed the wirs that mich had chewed and chaffed the insulation cut sodier and heat shrink tube most everything was for the outside temp senser in the mirror. I also tried unplugging the neutral saftey switch and started it still the same,, I tried a diffrent ign switch changed my key cyl to the other colum and still the same and of course now I have a issue with the stupid anti theft code is messing up so I am probally going to have to reprogram that :( I am so frustrated I am going to take it to a buddie's shop who his electrical guy wants to look at it but I think in the long run I am goning to have to change out the wireing harness to the cab :(
  4. Kady

    Kady Epic Member 5+ Years GMTC Chick 100 Posts

    I've had the same problem... Entire cluster would go out, but the gas and temp would just float where ever it wanted... I tried different clusters, didn't work... I've also had a small battery draw... Sometime my lights would stay on when I'd shut the truck off, but i'd cycle the ignition and they would go out. Well, one day, while trying to trouble shoot, I noticed when my OBDII was plugged in under the dash that the gauges would work and function properly. Also, I keep my OBDii cord plugged in with out the scanner, and just wrapped the remaining cord around my e-brake lever. (This is just a temporary fix so that i have use of my gauges until I have the time to really go through and figure out what's going on) But... I haven't woken up to a dead battery since, my lights and gauges function properly. Curious if yours will do the same thing... Not that its a permanent fix or anything, but it might help us narrow down what both of our problems are.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Did your gauges just cut out suddenly one day, or did it start just going over bumps etc... ?
  5. FastYZFR6

    FastYZFR6 New Member

    I let a buddy borrow it and my trailer to haul a car and he said the fuel gauge started jumpping around then they all died. I never once had a problem B4 that, I almost wonder if it has something to do with the fuel level sender? Another thing I found that leads me to belive it's voltage related if it is running or I am driving and turn the key all the way to start and hold it for a lil bit (has to be in gear since neutral switch won't allow the starter to grind) the PRND321 light up but no indication of what your in and the battery light comes on first yellowish orange then starts to trun red the longer you hold it. I don't have a cable for the OBDII but maybe I will go to autozone and try their scanner. One of my friends told me to try swapping the under the hood fuse pannel and dash fuse pannel (luckey for me I have parted out a couple trucks and still have stuff kicking around)
  6. Johnrkennedy

    Johnrkennedy New Member

    Hello, I have an identical problem. Gauges won't work unless OBD is plugged in. Battery was disconnected to install new fuel pump. When re-connected, the gauges wouldn't work unless the OBD was plugged in. Did you ever resolve this issue?
  7. RayVoy

    RayVoy Epic Member 5+ Years 5000 Posts

    John, what do you have for w truck?

    And, if your working with the scanner plugged in, there is a voltage/ground problem and the cable is providing a work-a-round.

    Look for a blown fuse, a broken wire, a bad ground.
  8. Johnrkennedy

    Johnrkennedy New Member

    Thanks, Ray. While looking at schematics, all I find is IGN 1 10amp and that fuse is good. So is IGN 0 and IGN3. The truck is a 2001 2500HD with the 8.1 Vortec. I didn't look at HVAC or other fuses yet. Any ideas as to which fuse? Thanks.
  9. Johnrkennedy

    Johnrkennedy New Member

    As a side note, I also replaced the fuel lines. There is a bracket on the rear of the engine that cradles the three fuel lines and it has a plastic wrap button to hold a thick wiring harness section. I didn't nut it back on because it is hard to get, I wonder if there is a pig tail that comes from that harness to the bracket. Tomorrow I will hook up a jumper and if the gauges work, then, that is the missing ground.
  10. RayVoy

    RayVoy Epic Member 5+ Years 5000 Posts

    A jumper cable can be a great test tool, let us know how you make out

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