Discussion in 'Chevy C/K Truck Forum' started by xJohnDoe001x, Nov 20, 2013.
Take it to an electric motor shop and have it re-built for a fraction of the cost!
I don't know that this is true anymore. I have called rebuilders in my area multiple times over the last few years. They always turn out to be the same price or $10 cheaper than buying one at autozone.
I took it to AutoZone and had it tested three times and it passed, I guess I'll do what he did and get it tested somewhere else.
Think about how these things work....you need a running engine to spin the alternator. Good, or bad, the alternator is there to keep the battery charged. A charged battery is what starts the truck. Stop buying parts that you don't need.
Yeah, that what I thought, I also thought that if I had fuel, spark, and no large vacuum leak I'd get some kind of starting action.
So RayVoy, what do I do next? Or anyone? I had recently set the timing and the distributor hold down bolt is still tight but I'm still going to set the engine to TDC and check the rotor position. I have a known working everything so I may swap the distributor module, check the pick up coil while there.
The timing is never set at TDC, it is always a few degrees retarded. check the specs.
I'm not going to go back and look at the list of things you changed, but did you have the distributor out? Did you replace it, or remove it to inspect it? Did you have the wires off?
If you did, you probably have the timing screwed up.
But, even at TDC it should start. If you did any of the above, I suspect you have the plugs firing 180 degrees out of phase, ie: the plug fires on the exhaust stroke, not the compression.
I also thought that the timing is never set to TDC which causes me to shoot the parts machine gun at it. The under hood emission label is missing but I found all of them AutoZone's website and all say TDC, anyhow I wasn't talking about resetting the timing but checking the rotor's position to see if anything has changed. I think you missed something I was driving the truck regularly the truck ran good and one morning it didn't. I understand firing order and all the mechanical aspects and relationships but I have been away from auto mechanic's for a lot of years. I don't have much experience with electronic ignitions. RayVoy, I know you meant timing is usually advanced not retarded.
Assume that I did install all parts correctly and am not a total clutz mechanically speaking, what should I check?
Ok [MENTION=59582]xJohnDoe001x[/MENTION], I did a little checking (very little, so I/we could be wrong), it appears, with an engine computer and a distributor, the mechanical timing is set to 0 (now, I don't know if that's just a mark, or if it is 0 degrees, which would be TDC). The computer then advances the timing to suit the needs of the engine.
BTW, thanks for picking that up, I did mean "advanced"
That post was more interested in what you had changed around the distributor; ie: had you changed the distributor, or the wires?
Some of those types of ignition used an ignition module (someone may have talked about it earlier) maybe there is a problem there; however, checking for a spark, and having one should rule that out.
Yea, I was wondering about these distributor modules, are they work or don't work things with no middle area? I did replaced the distributor with a new one. The truck ran good then one morning it started for a couple of seconds then it won't start.
did you get the crack and no start fixed with your truck. I have been having the same problem with my truck I changed a bunch of part hen I got a hold of a old time tech. He laughed at me and asked me if looked at the ground that is on the block that goes to the frame and he was right we fixed the breaded ground and the truck is running better then before. so just look at that.
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