Halogens, HIDs, and projectors demystified...

Discussion in 'Lighting Discussion' started by SurrealOne, Aug 26, 2011.

  1. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    Sylvania Silverstar Ultras are rated at a colour temperature of 4100K, so they are pretty darn white for a halogen bulb. I've not used them and have read mixed reviews on them; people running them seem to like the quality and colour of the light but complain about them burning out quickly. Your mileage may vary...

    ---------- Post added at 11:21 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:05 AM ----------

    I stumbled across this, today. Check the flare-up of glare from the HIDs between 0:16 and 0:17...

  2. badboy

    badboy New Member

    Thanks for your research Surreal, this has made up my mind for me. For now, light bulbs only. Do you have a write up on the diode mod? Also, does it have mod for high/low on at same time? Thanks again for the information.
  3. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    Here's the link to the diode conversion thread for NBS (99-06+07classic) vehicles: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sh...-for-All-Lights-On-High-Beams?highlight=diode. Note that you don't have to do all of the diodes shown; simply pick/choose which ones you want. Example: If you don't want to do the diode that keeps DRLs on with low beams, skip that one.

    Thanks to some research by [MENTION=36460]reggiecab2000[/MENTION] it's come to my attention that an aftermarket Chevy HIT headlight kit exists. The Sylvania Xenarc X2020 Chevy HID kit is a drop-in kit that works for 99-02 Chevy Silverados and 00-06 Chevy Tahoes and Suburbans. It's apparently a plug and play kit that has the ballast mounted to the back side of the headlight assembly. As of this writing the following vendor has it: http://www.brightheadlights.com/Headlights-x2020.htm
  4. Jeremy09LTZCrew

    Jeremy09LTZCrew Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    Surreal, as usual, your post is a huge help to me. I've been interested in HIDs. Partly for form, but mostly for function. I live in an area that requires about 10-15 minutes of driving on roads that have no lights coming or going. Granted, my lights are a whole lot better than what was on my wife's old Durango. (It finally died.) We also have a lot of deer in the area and I've seen first hand what a buck can do to a car. However, with my current list of things I want to do to my truck, a retro-fit is going to be far down the list. I'll see what I can safely do to enhance vision, but it won't be HIDs for right now.

    LOVINTHESTORM Epic Member 5+ Years ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    Awesome thread I've been tremendously enlightened. I have changed plans for my truck. Thanks surrealone for the research and thanks amac for the thread heads up.
  6. ahmitchell1

    ahmitchell1 Rockstar 4 Years ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    I don't see very good and night every car I own has hids in them. I have them properly aligned and it doesn't bother anyone. I rebuild my headlight harness with heavy duty wire in my silverado. They look the same as my moms Benz
  7. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    Can you pass inspection in ALL (not just some, but all) jurisdictions? (Remember, as you pass through other localities and states you're subject to their local laws.) Also, how do you know you don't bother anyone? (Just because people didn't flash you didn't mean you didn't bother someone, so how are you 100% positive you've bothered no one?)

    These questions are asked not to attack you or to suggest you're doing anything wrong, but to pose fair, valid rhethorical questions to you for consideration.
  8. moogvo

    moogvo Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    I was reading about people using diodes to chain lights and functionality together. Diodes drop voltage by 9/10 of a volt. that doesn't sound like an awful lot, but it makes a really big difference in terms of the brightness of the light. It also adds life to the bulbs to have them burning at the correct voltage. Another way to consider is to use dioded wires as control wires for relays.

    I ALWAYS add relays just before each headlight on EVERY vehicle I have had. The difference is definitely noteworthy. the reason being is that in today's cars and trucks, the wire to the headlights is of a smaller gauge and conductors are made from an alloy, rather than solid copper. When testing the voltage at the headlight connector, I generally see 12.3 to 12.6V at the connector with the vehicle running and the alternator supplying 13.8V. After adding in a diode, that will drop to 11.4 to 11.7 volts under load.

    If you were to use a relay to power the headlights, and your diodes in the control wiring to trigger the relays, you would get the full output of the battery and alternator voltage delivered to each light in the chain without loading up the harness wiring and headlight switch... MAJOR difference!

    On my van, I only did the low beams at first because I only had 2 relays. (I like to use a relay per light incase one fails) My low beams were brighter and whiter than my high beams until I completed the job.
    Last edited: May 3, 2012
  9. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    Good stuff, Moogvo!
  10. moogvo

    moogvo Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    Thanks Surreal! If anyone is interested, I can draw up a diagram. It really is simple. I am not sure why GM didn't relay the headlights to begin with.

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