Help on Silverado Double DIN Stereo Install

Discussion in 'Audio, Video & Gadget Tech' started by wmkess, Nov 9, 2012.

  1. wmkess

    wmkess Member

    I ordered a JVC (Model KW-HDR720) double DIN stereo from Crutchfield a few days ago. I got it in and spent one night this week soldering all of the wiring harnesses together. After finishing up that, I looked into getting the stereo into the dash install kit that was included with my order and was confused. It's been a few years since I've done a stereo install and this is my first time to do a double DIN unit too. My problem lies with not knowing how to correctly attach the stereo to the dash kit. This kit is not made for the tabs on the stereo cage to be bent to hold it on, but looks to be fastened on with screws.

    As you can see in the pictures I attached, the stereo has 2 fastening locations on each side and the dash kit has slots on its sides for fastening it to the stereo. The problem is that the screws that came with the kit are too short to pass through the cage connect to the stereo. With the sides of the dash kit flush against the cage and the faceplate held up to it, it seems as if it is too wide with the cage in place. My question for those on here who may know is...should I removed the cage and fasten the dash kit sides directly to the unit? And can I remove a bracket or something off of the factory radio and attach it to my unit and just avoid using the dash kit altogether?

    I know this was long and drawn out for such a simple question but I wanted to describe my problem accurately. I'm hoping I can take this suggestion and turn the final process of this install into a <30 min job instead of a waste of a nice Saturday.

    JVC_DDIN.jpg
    dash_installation_kit.jpg
     
  2. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    Skip the cage.
     
  3. wmkess

    wmkess Member

    Thanks. Actually just got it in this morning and did go without the cage. Looks great. Only problem I had was that the gmos box adapter is defective and giving me feedback through the speakers when the volume is low. Crutchfield is shippping me a new one this week. I'm gonna take that opportunity toadjust the unit out about 1/8 inch too to get a more flush mount at the trucks trim. I'll post pics as soon as I get it finished.
     
  4. wmkess

    wmkess Member

    Here's an update on the issue I was having. The new GMOS interface came in the other day and I installed it this past Friday. Well, it didn't fix the static coming from the speakers. Called Crutchfield tech support and was told to try another aftermarket head unit as it may be the head unit's internal ground that is bad. I have yet to try that but I still get the static even when the radio is unplugged from the GMOS interface (note the static only is heard when the door chimes are going off with the stereo unplugged). I've tried grounding the ground wire from the interface to the frame which didn't help and all my connections are correct and solid.

    I'm convinced it has to be the GMOS interface and my guess on the issue is that it's related to the factory amp that came with the Bose system in my truck. The static is pretty minimal though (can barely hear it at idle if the stereo is muted) so maybe all of these interfaces create this and the average person doesn't notice it.

    Anyone have any advice on what to do from here? Should I try to get Crutchfield to send me a new GMOS interface? If the amp is the culprit, could I cut the amp wire from GMOS interface to the vehicle harness and try to wire it directly from the head unit to the amp wire in the truck?

    BTW, here is a quick pic I took after I installed the new unit. Lighting is bad and it was with my phone but I think it looks pretty clean in there.

    IMAG0041_zps6d3660b1.jpg
     
  5. pmf608

    pmf608 Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    I have the GMOS-04 in my truck too with my Kenwood navigation radio and I have the feedback issues as well. I've been chasing it with all sorts of solutions and haven't quite figured out how to fix it yet, other than not using the Bose amp. If you do a search on the internet, you will find this is a common problem with the GMOS units. The PAC and other brand interfaces don't seem to have this problem, but I like the GMOS for keeping a factory sounding chime that is amplified instead of being from a little speaker in the interface.
     
  6. zigger215

    zigger215 Member 2 Years 500 Posts

    What kind of trucks do you guys have? You mentioned Bose in one post, you may have the wrong interface for your truck's electrical package.
     
  7. wmkess

    wmkess Member

    Mine is a 2005 Silverado with the Bose system (no steering wheel controls or on star). I think the GMOS-04 is the correct one. It is was recommended both by Crutchfield and through Metra's online search tool.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Thanks for the reply. I've emailed Metra about the issue and got back a response asking if the unit came with RCA cable wires that needed to be spliced. I replied mine didn't come with RCA connectors. I'll post what they have to say about that. I'm still skeptical as to what that has to do with it because, like I said, I'm getting the static when my door chimes are on even when I have my head unit totally disconnected.
     
  8. pmf608

    pmf608 Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    Mine's a 2003 Avalanche. Full load with the factory Bose. The GMOS-04 is the correct adapter, but my research shows that it is very common to have noise issues with it. It's on every forum from GM trucks to hummers to envoys and trailblazers, etc.

    Mine does the exact same thing. There is always a slight static sound, but my bose system always had a bit of underlying static on its own so I can put up with that. It picks up alternator whine when the engine is running though. If I put my radio into 'Standby' (on a kenwood Nav unit, this just turns off the audio but leaves the radio on so you can use the navigation), the sound goes away. This seems to happen because the radio cuts power to the amp turn-on wire and lets the GMOS-04 shut off the Bose amp. When the Bose amp is off, everything is fine. I've spent a lot of time trying to track this (I know alternator whine usually comes from grounding issues). I've tried grounding the amp, radio, and GMOS-04 interface all to the same point, and running a jumper wire from that combined ground to the alternator ground to make sure everything has a solid ground. Still no luck. Once funds allow it next summer, I'll be bypassing the Bose amplifier entirely.
     
  9. wmkess

    wmkess Member

    Luckily for me, I don't have alternator whine. I'm hoping Metra comes through with some possible solutions. If not, I'm going to buy the interface Walmart carries for non-amplified systems and use it to troubleshoot and then try to sell it used on Amazon or Ebay. Then I might try cutting the amp wire between the gmos-04 and and vehicle harness and taping those ends off, then connecting the amp wire from the head unit directly to the wire running to the amp. I've seen where it's fairly accessible behind the console storage pockets.
     
  10. zigger215

    zigger215 Member 2 Years 500 Posts

    The GMOS is a cheap interface made with cheap parts in my opinion. The best harness for noise elimination is the OS-2C-BOSE. Without Bose it's the OS-2C. It's an excellent harness and there is no static pink noise or alternator whine.
     

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