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Electrical Homelink retrofit in NBS truck?

Discussion in 'Audio, Video & Gadget Tech' started by SurrealOne, Jan 14, 2013.

  1. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    I'm about to replace my mini overhead console with a full length unit and will be doing a homelink retrofit as part of it. Has anyone here done a homelink retrofit and, if so, do you have any tips?
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2013
  2. pmf608

    pmf608 Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    I have done this and it's easy. I assume since you're doing it with the console swap, you'll be using a console with the factory homelink unit. The GM homelink unit has 3 wires. One for constant +12V, one for ground, and one for that uses the dash illumination circuit. I don't know if the illumination wire would be in the overhead wiring harness on trucks without homelink or a sunroof, but if not you can tap into one of the dash light wires at the dash and run it up there if you want the little lights in the center of each button to light up.

    One thing to note is that the factory wiring gives the homelink module constant power, which some people consider a security issue because it would let anyone who breaks into your truck have the ability to open whatever door or gate the homelink is programmed to. I installed both the homelink mirror and GM factory homelink in my Silverado using the factory-type wiring, but you could use an ignition-switched +12V source instead if you only want the homelink to work with the truck running. The homelink memory is non-volatile and will stay programmed if the power is turned off. That being said, constant +12V is present in the overhead console of every truck for the overhead lights (the homelink unit actually taps into the light wiring from the factory on my avalanche). But a switched power wire wouldn't be present on trucks without sunroofs because there is nothing else up there that uses it. On the other hand, if you're already doing this much, running one more wire isn't exactly the end of the world.
     
  3. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    Thanks @pmf608. That's a cakewalk and is exactly what I was hoping for. Regarding the security issue - I've read about that and prefer Homelink to have accessory power. I'll be dragging an accessory +12v line and ground up the a-pillar for some switch and gauge illumination (the map light ground is, IMHO, way too small to tap for my switches and gauge) and can re-use both. If the Homelink lighting isn't terribly bright then I'll connect it to the +12v line, too, since I wouldn't care about it being illuminated unless it is a distraction. (If it's super bright then it'll be added to the dimming circuit.)
     
  4. pmf608

    pmf608 Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    The lights on the homelink unit definitely aren't very bright. I hadn't run the dimmer wire to have the lights work on my Silverado because the homelink buttons on my mirror didn't have lights and I wasn't really concerned about it. On the Avalanche though, I keep my dash at full brightness and I didn't even notice the homelink button lights for over a year until I specifically looked to see if they came on one day.
     
  5. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator Staff Member 3 Years ROTM Winner 1000 Posts


    I second that they are not bright. I may change mine to 12 volt accessory also. I will just tap into the sunroof power wire. I am always concerned when I have something happening in the garage and have to leave my truck outside overnight. Like previously stated, all it takes is someone getting in my truck, either I left it unlocked or they broke in, and then they have complete access to my garage and the tools they would need to break into the house.
     

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