Discussion in 'Chevy C/K Truck Forum' started by JTWard, Aug 9, 2014.
I've heard lots of good reviews on Steel Braided brake lines... I can't comment for myself though.
1. Upgrade to the NBS Master Cylinder:
2. Upgrade to the NBS Front Brakes:
Yea, there is a procedure that takes about 20 minutes
these might help , a brake upgrade with callipers and proper rotors and pads will make a huge difference, i used to deal a lot with the Jap rice rockets and wilwood make excellent brakes.
Hawk Ceramic pads and smoothrotors are going to be your bast bet. I for one prefer slotted rotors (NOT Drilled) and ceramic pads for towing. Its all going to boil down to your personal preference though
I forget to mention, the top photograph is fresh from the field way out in western PA, The second or lower is or was taken last spring just about all done, you can tell because it sits much higher on the bumper to bumper 'New" suspension. I even replaced the body mounts. If anyone out there hasn't done this, I assure you it makes the truck feel brand new.
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Yeah, But I don't like the "Break in procedure" with ceramics. Front end is smoking and you can smell the overheated grease. I don't know. Maybe with a better pad manufacture it won't be so bad, but you don't like slotted ?
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What kind of 'Break-in' procedure did you have to go through ?
I do like slotted, I do not like drilled because of rust. I use the same break in procedure as any other brake pad material. For no noise, no dust, and more stopping power I'll deal with the smell lol
HAWK makes a LOT of brake pads. What ones am I looking for ? Thank you !
Most front rotors on vehicles already have vents through the center for cooling. Drilled rotors accomplishes next to nothing other than "they look cool". I guess for some, if it "looks cool", they imagine their vehicle stops faster. Slotting does have some benefit, as it acts as a scraper for the pads and will remove some surface contaminants from them. It is primarily designed to waft away vapor from heat buildup on braking. So if you have a choice, order slotted with no drilling.
I use Cryogenically treated rotors from Frozen Rotors. They are treated cryogenically, which makes them virtually "warp proof", and I had warping issues with the stock rotors on this an my M6, so I have the Frozen Rotors on both vehicles, and I have not had any warping problems since. They are costly, so if you are not having a warp issue, you don't need them.
As far as brake pads, the choice does matter as far as brakes grabbing. But on a pickup truck, I think you are talking about very little return on using a soft compound pad, which is going to grab faster and better. It also wears out faster, and on a truck, especially like mine where it is used for towing, a soft pad is not a good choice.
The other issue to be aware of is the valve on some models that proportions the braking between the front and rear to avoid the rear brakes locking up. You may find, if you have this feature (called "anti-lock" on my truck), that if you have a qualified technician adjust the deflection arm on the rear axle (this is what proportions the brakes - more weight on the back, the more the rear brakes engage) such that the rear brakes are used more, the truck will stop faster. As long as they don't overdo it and cause the rear brakes to lock up. I have had mine adjusted for this reason, and it worked great.
The only other thing I have done to my brakes is install Stainless Braided hoses on front and rear. It imparts a slightly mor firm feel at the pedal. But a truck is what it is: a truck. It is not going to accelerate particularly fast compared to fast car, nor will it stop fast compared to most cars.
I've always used ceramic pads on my tow rigs with no complaints. They do wear a little faster, but not significantly. I use the brake best ceramics from Oreillys.
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