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How can I get a better brake reaction or effect ?

Discussion in 'Chevy C/K Truck Forum' started by JTWard, Aug 9, 2014.

  1. 09 Z71 4x4

    09 Z71 4x4 Member

    Please don't over look the brake fluid. Brake fluid collects moisture over time. H2o does what when it gets hot? A complete flush with clean fresh fluid will always help with the feel and performance. All other parts come second and will always help IE pads, rotors or lines.
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2014
    Tachyon likes this.
  2. BurbanMan

    BurbanMan Member 1 Year 500 Posts

    Good point about the brake fluid, which springs a question to mind. How can one go about switching to dot 4 brake fluid?
  3. jmcover

    jmcover Rockstar

    DOT 3 and 4 are compatible. DOT 5 is silicone based and not interchangeable. I changed to DOT 4 when I did a system bleed a ways back
  4. BurbanMan

    BurbanMan Member 1 Year 500 Posts

    How can one convert to the dot 5?
  5. RayVoy

    RayVoy Well-Known Member 2 Years 1000 Posts

    AFAIK, the seals/rubbers/etc in the cylinders, the hoses and the ABS module are not compatible with DOT 5, you would need to upgrade all components.
  6. Tachyon

    Tachyon Rockstar 100 Posts

    I agree with Pikey. PowerStop is a great option!

    Read my post on upgrading my Suburban to the PowerStop brake kit. It's highly recommended, reasonably priced and changes your braking power, response, fade resistance and longevity dramatically. It's one of the upgrades I'm most happy with.
    In fact I've vowed that I will never own another vehicle without slotted and drilled rotors, even if I have to install them myself.

    http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/th...r-mind-brake-upgrade-time.122770/#post-579530
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2014
  7. Tachyon

    Tachyon Rockstar 100 Posts

    I have to disagree with you on a couple of things here...

    This is just not correct. Pad and rotor materials both have an impact on stopping distance. Rotor swept area is NOT the only determining factor in braking power. Coefficient of friction and heat resistance are also major factors.

    Incorrect. Drilled/slotted rotors help get rid of not only heat, but gases. Those gases can form a cushion of high pressure gas between the pad and the rotor which dramatically increases stopping distance. Removing this gas through the holes and slots means that gas buildup is not a factor. Thus your pads and rotors work at a much higher efficiency all the time. This alone will reduce stopping distance over stock rotors.

    Sorta true. Brakes that aren't OVERheated work best. But they can be too cold too. There is an optimal temperature range. Cold brakes work worse than worm brakes and better than overheated brakes. Your first stop however will NOT be your best stop. Watch one of the car mag's test videos sometime. You'll often hear them talking about warming up their brakes before a track run or brake test.

    Also, slotted rotors will sweep the pads clean of debris which will cause a DRAMAITC increase in the evenness of pad wear which improves brake function over the life of the pads and rotors. My Powestop brake rotors still look new. No grooves whatsoever. The effective heat removal also means less warping of your rotors which is also a big factor in reducing brake efficiency as well as safety.

    Anyway, to say that only larger brake surface area can improve braking power is incorrect as there are multiple factors involved, some of which slots/drilling and better pad and rotor materials can remedy.

    BTW, I have measured the improvement from simply installing the PowerStop kit using a G-Meter. While I didn't do extensive tests, the informal ones I did do showed notable reductions in stopping distance over stock. More importantly, the stops are consistent. The 10th stop is as good as the 2nd. Same for long down hill runs. Much less brake fade.
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2014
    BurbanMan likes this.
  8. JTWard

    JTWard Member 1 Year Gold Member 100 Posts

    Yeah, At the hawk website, it's a lot like ceramic, 5-7 light stops from 30 to 10 MPH then 3 from 45 to 0MPH then stop and let them cool off for 20 minutes.
  9. JTWard

    JTWard Member 1 Year Gold Member 100 Posts

    Well every brake skilled technicians I talk to says that my 1990 (which I think is the 3rd. - 4th.generation platform) have always been prone to what they refer to "A Mushy brake pedal". Myself, I'm just trying to get a firmer pedal. In a hard stop, my truck will stop semi quick, but the pedal is halfway to the floor, But it stops ? Could be I'm expecting the same brake action I get out of my 2007 Pontiac Grand Prix GT which has rack & Pinion steering Anti lock brakes and traction control and power brakes with ceramic pads. My Silverado is 23 years older than my 2007 Pontiac. The technology was totally different back then.
  10. Dana W

    Dana W Member 2 Years 100 Posts

    New soft lines will surely help pedal feel, even direct replacement new rubber lines will stiffen the pedal up a bit, and braided stainless soft lines will harden the pedal up a lot.

    The fifteen year old soft lines on my truck may as well had been toy balloons.

    My 1999 Burb has a mushy pedal too, but only while the engine is running. Without power boost it does not seem to "bleed down" like it does with boost. I replaced my soft lines and it's still softer than all our other vehicles, but stiffer than before.

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