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How to I remove rusted Cab mount bolts to install a body lift?

Discussion in 'Chevy Truck Talk & GM News' started by Outlaw19, Mar 1, 2012.

  1. Outlaw19

    Outlaw19 Member

    I have a 88 gmc sierra. I want to install a body lift my self but i am afraid that i will brake the bolts off. has anyone did this there selfs. Any help would be apprieciated.
  2. silverhobey

    silverhobey Rockstar 3 Years 500 Posts

    I removed my cab mount bolts to install side steps on our 1 year old Crew Cab. GM now uses thread lock/sealer,
    but I don't know about older ones..............you will probably need an air compressor and an impact gun.

    Good luck in your venture ................Brian
  3. Outlaw19

    Outlaw19 Member

    where your bolts rusted on at all
  4. CKNSLS

    CKNSLS Member 2 Years 100 Posts

    Don't know on an '88-but on the new ones GM sent out a TSB to all aftermarket suppliers to include instructions NOT TO USE AN AIR IMPACT WRENCH. As stated, they use a lock tight product and the body bolts that the body mount screws up in to are welded and have been known to break off. When this happens you need to cut a hole in the floor of the cab to repair that particular one.
  5. Coach24

    Coach24 Rockstar 3 Years 5000 Posts

    Nice GM does it again
  6. Jimmeh

    Jimmeh Epic Member 5+ Years 500 Posts

    yeah, don't use an impact. Spray your rusted bolts down with a penetrating solution (there are a ton of different kinds out there, so use at your discretion), wait, and then breaker bar and some swearing should get them off without breaking them. I haven't installed a body lift before, but I have had to remove some cab bolts before, so that's what I did.
  7. Josh

    Josh Member 100 Posts

    when i did my 3 inch i soaked everything in pb blaster. and when i ran out i used some liquid wrench squirted on them. i used a regular 1/2 inch drive socket wrench. inspect how much rust there is first. soak em good. when you get a cheater bar/breaker bar on em. as you turn it when you THINK your losening. stop immediately to make sure its not twisting a bolt in two. if not carry on. my .02 cents for yah.
  8. silverhobey

    silverhobey Rockstar 3 Years 500 Posts

    no, our truck was pretty much brand new, so I don't know what kind of reaction rust has done
    to yours ...................Brian
  9. Outlaw19

    Outlaw19 Member

    is wd 40 good enough to use on the bolts
  10. The Heater

    The Heater Member 2 Years 100 Posts

    I have restored (body off) two cars with lots of rust issues. You do NOT want to use an air wrench or any high torque to try to remove the bolts.

    If there is threadlocker, the toughest grade will loosen its grip if you heat it to 400 degrees. Use a heat gun (preferably the non flame type) and try to gently loosen bolt or nut.

    If this does not work, then go buy at an industrial fastener supplier some penetrating oil called "Aerokroil". Orange spray can. After two car restorations and many, many cars worked on, this stuff will penetrate the worst rust if you leave it on long enough, such as 24 or more hours. Tap with a small hammer while applying the wrench to loosen.

    If the bolt breaks, which occasionally cannot be avoided if the metal has fused, you have to drill out the stud and re-tap the threads. Sorry, but I have had to do this many times on older cars, and the two I restored. Part of the deal when you work with frozen bolts and nuts.

    If it is a nut, you can carefully drill two holes next to each other from the top of the perimeter of the nut, then take a small chisel, tap the nut apart and remove it from the unmolested threads of the bolt. Tedious, but it works. If you damage the threads on the bolt, it can be replaced. Just make sure it is a grade 5 or 8 bolt. Just make sure you get the same grade nut.
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2012

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