How to move the Heat/AC fan control to your roof console

Discussion in 'The Coffee Shop ~ Chit Chat' started by PantheraUncia, Aug 3, 2012.

  1. PantheraUncia

    PantheraUncia New Member

    So my silverado has a space in the roof console that will fit the control panel for the heat/ac, fan control, etc.

    I know allot of suburbans, tahoe's, yukons, etc have this setup. So I stopped by the dealer today and asked them what wiring harness I would need to make that move and they had 10 different options.

    So they took my VIN and called GM and they were even more clueless as to which one to use.

    I assume I need to get a cable to go from the current location, up the driver side pillar around the window and then above the headliner to the roof console.

    Anyone have any suggestions, or a Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon from 1999-2003 NBS where they could get me a part number or something.

    It would be nice to free up that space in the dash for something else.
  2. aloxdaddy99

    aloxdaddy99 New Member

  3. pmf608

    pmf608 New Member

    I have a climate control unit from a suburban laying around that came in the overhead console I bought. It is smaller than the main one and the main one will not fit in there without a lot of modification - the console itself might have to be widened to accomodate that. You also won't be able to use the tahoe/suburban piece there because it doesn't have all of the functions of the main unit.

    Your best bet on wiring if you decide to do it though, would probably be to run a set of wires up your pillar beside the windshield, label each at both ends for which color it goes to, cut the plug off, solder the wires in its place and reattach the plug at the other end.
  4. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member

    Personally I'd go to a junk yard to get an OEM harness and climate control from a wrecked silvy. I'd cut the wires off from the plug(s) leaving a good 6-8 inches so I could use them as leads, later. I'd then disassemble the AC control and/or destroy most of it such that only the receptacle (into which the plug mates) remained. I'd then solder my own wires to that receptacle .... with a run length long enough to get them to where they were needed ... and terminate them using the leads I left on the plugs I cut off the junked harness, earlier. I'd make sure I had a 1:1 positional match for each wire on each end (of receptable and plug). Last I'd place the wires in 3/8" wire loom and wrap it in electrical tape to protect the wires.

    This approach allows you to keep your oem plug ... and extend it ... and if you ever want to revert, you can by simply remove the makeshift extension noted, above, and replace the overhead with something unmodified.

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