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How To Replace Front Disc Brakes

Discussion in 'How-to Guides' started by Pikey, May 4, 2012.

  1. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator Staff Member 2 Years ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    Ok, I am doing my brakes right now and found some issues and inconsistencies with my how to, So here is the revised version

    Here is my quick write up on pad replacement.
    Break all lug nuts loose.
    -Jack up vehicle and support with jack stands.
    -I suggest doing one side at a time incase you need to use the other side as reference.
    -Compress the caliper piston with a C-clamp. This is the first time I have tried this method and it seems to work
    IMG_2531.jpg IMG_2532.jpg
    -Remove two caliper bolts. I think that they are Torques T-55 head.

    IMG_2530.jpg IMG_2529.jpg
    For rears You may need a wrench to hold the guide pins from spinning. Put the wrench just on the otherside of the caliper, There are flat spots there, you may have to move the rubber boot alittle to find them
    -Hang the caliper out of the way with a piece of wire.
    -The pads are removed by sliding them away from the caliper. the outside pad slides down the metal brackets toward you. The inside slides toward the motor.
    IMG_2533.jpg
    -pay attention to what pad came from the outside and which one came from the inside, you will use these for reference when installing the new pads
    I guess that I have to do this in more then one post, it will not let me add anymore pictures

  2. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator Staff Member 2 Years ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    -If replacing rotors remove the two large bolts that hold the caliper mount to the steering knuckle. (Probably going to need a breaker bar because these are torqued at around 129 ft.lb. (yes, I know my ball joints look like crap and have holes in the boots. That is my next project)
    IMG_2535.jpg

    Before putting your new rotors on, clean with break clean to remove any coating applied during shipping. I always take a rough piece of sand paper and rough the rotor surfaces, front and back, when I worked in the garage we had seen cars come back that had some strange noises during braking, roughing the surfaces of the rotors remedied this.
    -Look at the caliper mounting bracket, you will see the metal slides the came in your kit, pay attention to their orientation. remove the old metal slides and install the new ones exactly how the old ones came off. Being careful to make sure they are fully seated and clipped securely in place. Look at the middle of the clip being sure that the section in fully seated.
    IMG_2536.jpg
    -Next, look at the bracket and locate where the caliper guide pin bolts slid in. Clean the holes well with brake clean, looking for any damage to the rubber
    -After cleaning the holes and the pins. Lube them well with sil glyde.
    IMG_2538.jpg
    -put a little sil glyde on the metal clips where the pads will ride. Not a lot, it attracts dust. Just a thin layer
    -remount the caliper bracket.
    -I always put a few washers on a wheel stud and screw a lug nut on, this is to hold the rotor in the proper position while installing the pads.
    -Some people install brake quite on the backside of the pads to stop any noise. most good pads come with shims already mounted, this makes the brake quite unnecessary. Some manufactures will void the warranty if you use it.
    -install the new pads. Sliding them into the clips just like the old ones came off. Pay attention that the wear indicator tabs are in the same location as the pads you removed. they should go in smoothly and move along the clips freely. I have actually had to file a little off the inside radius (where the pads ride on the metal slide clips) of the ears of the pad to make them move correctly. I use a rat tail file for this. It does not take much, usually just the paint. make sure that the pads seat flat against the rotor and are not cocked in any way.
    -reinstall caliper and guide pin bolts (I put anti-seize on the threads of the bolts so they come apart next time easily.
    -Pump brake pedal to get the caliper tight on the pads, DO NOT DO THIS IF BOTH CALIPERS ARE NOT MOUNTED IN THEIR FINAL POSITION WITH PADS IN PLACE
    -remove the lug nut and washers holding the rotor in place.
    -install tire

    I know that people have different ways of doing the job. This method has worked well for me for years. If I missed something I am sure that someone will add it. I torque everything that I have a spec for. It may be overkill but, I would rather not over tighten and break or strip a bolt, or under tighten and have something come loose. You can just pull one caliper mounting bolt and swing the caliper upward, replace the pads and put it back together. This does not address cleaning and greasing the guide pins. Rear pad replacement is nearly the same. Except that there are bolts holding the caliper in place and the guide pins are mounted into the caliper mounting bracket. Next time I do the rear pads and parking brake shoes I will post a how to. I will also try to post torq specs required later.

    ---------- Post added at 05:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:41 PM ----------

    Torque Specs
    Caliper mounting(guide pin) bolts: 80 ft-lbs
    Caliper mounting bracket bolts:(1500 models)=129ft.lb
    (for 2500 model):221ft.lbs
    Lug nuts: 140 ft-lbs
    Last edited: May 5, 2012
  3. Dirty Dog

    Dirty Dog Member 2 Years 500 Posts ROTM Winner Platinum Contributor

    :glasses: Great Job Pikey....... Considering This Post was created 03-22-2009....and bumped :rofl:in contradiction of the Thread Rules..[h=2][​IMG] Read this before posting in this sub-forum!!![/h]

    Please read the following before posting in the Write-Ups forum. This sub-forum is for the posting of write-ups that have been completed and have step-by-step instructions on how to complete the diesired task. THIS SUB-FORUM IS NOT FOR ASKING FOR WRITE-UPS OR FOR ASKING QUESTIONS IN GENERAL. If you do not have a completed write-up that you would like to share with everyone else, please post in one of the other sub-forums such as Electrical, Aftermarket, or Powertrain forums. ANYTHING POSTED IN THIS SUB-FORUM THAT IS NOT A COMPLETED WRITE-UP WILL BE MOVED TO THE APPROPRIATE FORUM WITHOUT WARNING. Thank you and let's keep this sub-forum clean!​



    Read more: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sh...re-posting-in-this-sub-forum!!!#ixzz1u07JDGRl

    You have added some much needed life and action into this section of the site......
    Good write up though,,,, and looking forward to part two..... Rear Brakes and park pads.....
  4. BIGREDDADDY53

    BIGREDDADDY53 Rockstar 100 Posts

    Thanks Pikey, great pic's (really) Now I get it and that helps. I would have taken this to the shop but my son has cancer and my wife spends her time a the hospital and can't work, I have been on disabilty for a long time. That's why I have to do it myself. I really am greatfull for the advice. I bought new bolts for the caliper brackets and just in case I will get new bolts for the calipers. One question, what is sil glyde?
    Thanks again, Eric
  5. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator Staff Member 2 Years ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    It is a brand of brake lubricant. You can get it for around $8 a tube. A tube has lasted me 6 years and many brake jobs.
  6. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator Staff Member 2 Years ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    So, did I do something wrong? I can't tell of you are complimenting me or being negative. I saw a request for something and I did it. I was never in the parent forum prior to posting my how to, so I did not see the rule. Which I do not think that I broke. I posted a how to. If it is not in the correct place then, please by all means have an admin move it to the proper spot. I apologize if I posted it in the incorrect spot. I probably could have started a new thread.
    Last edited: May 6, 2012
  7. BIGREDDADDY53

    BIGREDDADDY53 Rockstar 100 Posts

    If anyone to blame it is me. I have very litte time to figure out the site, As I have said brfore it was my fault not Pikey's for being kind and awsering my quiestions I am very busy with my son (31/2 that has leukemia, as we spenp most of our time trying to save He's life. so if you want to gat mad at someone Dirty dog it's me..............
  8. Crawdaddy

    Crawdaddy Thread Killer Extraordinaire Staff Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts Platinum Contributor

    It's all good Pikey, you did good. I did split your how-to posts off to a new thread so it would be easier to find, but it's all good. Thanks for contributing!
  9. Jeremy09LTZCrew

    Jeremy09LTZCrew Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    Pikey, I really appreciate the write up. I've yet to attempt changing my brakes myself yet and posts like yours give me at least enough to start poking around. Thank you for the work, and especially the pictures.
  10. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator Staff Member 2 Years ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    I would like to add that when breaking the caliper bracket mounting bolts loose I use a 2 foot breaker bar with a 4 foot pipe slid over the end of it. They are pretty hard to break loose. Considering that I weigh about 140lbs I need the extra leverage. I suggest doing yourself a favor and cleaning the threads of those bolts up on a wire wheel, then put anti-seize on them before reinstalling. It will make it alot easier the next time you change out the rotors.
    Last edited: May 8, 2012

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