I need an Evaporator Coil removal how to.........

Discussion in 'Chevy Suburban Forum (GMC Yukon XL)' started by maury, May 1, 2008.

  1. maury

    maury New Member

    Hey guys - new to the site.

    Anyone have a how-to for a AC evaporator coil removal on a 99' Suburban. The upper connection was tight on the accumulator and I must have cracked a weld or something as now I have a leak just behind the firewall. I understand the entire lower dash has to come out - I'm just looking for a step by step (or at least the important steps).

    Thanks,
    Maury
  2. GaryL

    GaryL New Member

    See if this helps you:


    EVAPORATOR & HEATER CORE​
    Removal & Installation
    1) Disconnect negative battery cable. Discharge A/C system,
    using approved refrigerant recovery/recycling equipment. Drain cooling
    system. Remove glove box. Disconnect electrical connectors, if
    necessary. Remove floor air distribution duct.
    2) On diesel models, remove Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
    and mounting tray. On all models, remove trim panels. Remove blower
    motor cover. Remove blower motor-to-case screws, and remove blower
    motor. Loosen steering column bolts from instrument panel. Remove
    carrier and body bracket bolts supporting instrument panel (located on
    firewall and at each end of instrument panel). Tilt back or remove
    instrument panel as necessary.
    3) Remove coolant recovery tank. Remove heater hoses at
    heater core. Disconnect inlet and outlet lines at evaporator core, and
    cap openings. Remove accumulator. Remove A/C-heater assembly-tofirewall
    screws and bolts. Remove A/C-heater assembly from vehicle.
    4) Remove heater core cover from A/C-heater assembly. Remove
    heater core and seal from A/C-heater assembly. Remove air distribution
    lower case. Remove evaporator core from A/C-heater assembly. See
    Fig. 3.
    5) To install, reverse removal procedure. Add 3 ounces of
    clean refrigerant oil to evaporator. Lubricate NEW "O" rings with
    clean refrigerant oil prior to installation. Fill cooling system, and
    check for leaks. Evacuate, charge, and leak test system.​
  3. maury

    maury New Member

    Gary, you are the man! It's as involved as I expected. Wish me Luck.

    God, I love the internet!

    Maury
  4. JersSub

    JersSub New Member

    Hey there;

    I am replacing my evaporator core at least attempting to but I have a couple of questions regarding the steering column removal.... Do you need to do this or is there a trick to get around this.

    also the instructions say remove the Hinge pillar trim panels Is this the pipe that goes across the entire dash? I am trying to get the process on how to gain room to access the evaporator case before I pull the dash apart. I have a 1996 K1500 Suburban with front and rear heat\AC I am only working on the front evaporator.

    The instructions I have is from ALL Data, I pulled from the local library. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  5. doubledb

    doubledb New Member

    There are two bolts at each end of the dash that need to be removed the dash can then be rotate on the hinge pins. some of the other small bolts may have to be removed to just let the dash release. I took mine out of the top with a friend helping.
    David
  6. marjrm

    marjrm New Member

    what good is this gary if there are no pictures and figures that you refer to
  7. vncj96

    vncj96 New Member

    Probably doesnt matter since that was a year ago
  8. MauryFrench

    MauryFrench New Member

    I am curious about the steering column. Is this only to free up the dash for removal? I plan to start this job tomorrow or Monday on my 95 Chevy Silverado. I need the evaporator, and figure after all that trouble I should change the 16 year old heater core as well.

    Thanks
    Maury (the other Maury)
  9. Crawdaddy

    Crawdaddy Moderator

    As it just so happens, I helped my uncle pull the dash out of his 99 dually yesterday. The steering column has to be removed to allow the dash to drop. I wasn't around for that, but my uncle says it was a pain. There are 7 bolts keeping the dash from rotating on the lower dash pins, 3 along the top heater vents, 1 on either end of the lower dash, and 2 around the passenger airbag area. That gets the dash to tilt down. Then you have to pull the air duct which is held in by 1 bolt on each side. Then, to get the dash all of the way down, you have to pull the wiring harness off the dash. Then the dash can be removed and the a/c box accessed. We didn't get to pulling the a/c box out, but it looks like it's going to require pulling the dash support plate off and a big bolt holding it to the firewall. This is definitely NOT something that can be done in a day. Allot at least 2 days to complete, quite possibly 3.
  10. MauryFrench

    MauryFrench New Member

    Thanks, Mr. Crawdaddy. I plan to get started Monday or Tuesday, depending on the rain we are supposed to get.
  11. MauryFrench

    MauryFrench New Member

    Okay, after a fat finger episode, I will enter this again. I now have the dash rolling down on the dash pins to a degree, but the steering column only goes down so far and so the dash only goes down so far on top of it. I will look next at removing the wires and such; but it still seems it will not go down far enough to get to the A/C box under the dash. I also wonder just how the dash comes out at all since there are plates right above the dash pins that will not allow you to pull the dash up and off the pins. Any thoughts?

    Thanks
  12. ebacon

    ebacon New Member

    Any suggestions on replacing the rear expansion valve in a 99 suburban? I have the interior and all screws apart but i cant reach 2 screws between the fender and the black rear evap housing. I cant imagine I would have to disconnect all the lines from underneath? especially since service bulletin mentions cutting a hole in the box. How can i get to the last screws?
  13. MauryFrench

    MauryFrench New Member

    Thanks, Mr. Bacon. That was a couple of years ago; I was ultimately successful when I learned you have to detach the box from the firewall under the hood. Shoulda read more when I was doing it. !

    Unfortunately I have no advice on the expansion valve other than to say I have had to drill holes to get to screws in the past. Window motor on an 84 Thunderbird comes to mind.

    There are videos on youtube about changing the rear expansion valve; maybe they can help.

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