installed optima yellow top deep cycle battery

Discussion in 'Chevy Truck Accessories' started by reggiecab2000, Sep 9, 2012.

  1. Conlan Rose

    Conlan Rose Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    Another decent battery is the Duralast Gold. They come with a 3 year free replacement warranty and 8 year limited warranty. They are made by the same company as Optima batteries (Johnson Controls Battery Group Inc.). I'm on my second one, killed first after draining it beyond 0% with dead alternator they gave me the free replacement and warrantied the new battery. They are great truck starts every time even at times when I've majorly depleted the battery(like when the alternator died truck started without hesitation at 0%).
  2. reggiecab2000

    reggiecab2000 Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    well ill definitely see what i can do with this battery...

    just a quick reminder did anyone check my 3rd picture??? it seems all of yall skipped it...
    wondering if yall knew what those connections are??? if i should be worried?
  3. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    This implies (via use of the article 'the' before the adjective 'right' and the noun 'way') that there is only one 'right way' to do something ... and that is where you and I must agree to disagree. There is almost always more than one proper way/approach to do something.

    Case in point ... if a deep cycle battery's warranty covers its failure to function for a specific amount of time while providing a specific output ... without a requirement that it be recharged a certain way ... then using the deep cycle battery while it is topped off by an alternator and having it replaced under warranty should it prematurely cease to function per its parameters is also a 'right way' to do something. It may not be @moogvo's way to do it, but there's certainly nothing 'wrong' with that approach if one doesn't mind the trip to swap the old for the new ... it's just an alternative 'right' way to approach the problem. In this case it also happens to be an approach that is encouraged by this deep cycle battery's manufacturer (via the labeling of 'dual purpose' and the description indicating its uses include that of a starter battery).

    Is that approach ideal? From a battery longevity standpoint, certainly not ... but from an end-user standpoint it may absolutely be acceptable, as an end-user generally doesn't care about replacement of a battery so long as it doesn't cost anything extra. In fact, an end-user may actually desire a premature, warranty-based battery replacement so that the end-user has a longer life from the pair of batteries (original and replacement) than s/he might get from the original, alone... and has a new battery part of the way through the warranty period instead of an old battery.

    There are numerous 'right' ways to approach problems. @reggiecab2000 should choose the one that's right for HIM and HIS needs/uses.
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2012
  4. Conlan Rose

    Conlan Rose Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    If they have never been connected and there's never been a problem then why fret? You could test if the wire will draw anything or has continuity. Also you could just try the good old fashion game of follow the wire until it ends.
  5. reggiecab2000

    reggiecab2000 Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    ohhh follow the wire lol i hate that game!, they all seem to go into the massive loom of wires, totally untraceable,

    no problems yet, hopefully it stays that way
  6. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    They might be the connectors used for a brake controller in the event that one is to be installed for use with the factory towing package. Under my fuse box I seem to recall a red/black wire with an eyelet and a blue wire that was loose (no connector), for mine. (There's actually a third wire for this, but it's not under the fuse box.)

    Search for 'Brake Controller' on these forums if you want to read more, as I dropped a link in a post sometime back and that link detailed the wire locations and such well enough for another to wire up his controller (and it was what I used, too)...
  7. moogvo

    moogvo Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts


    Either battery will start the engine. I am just stating that a better choice would have been an actual lead acid battery instead of an AGM. No need for a is what it is. It isn't a matter of "my way" versus "someone else's way", in the same way that painting your car with spray paint cans is not as optimal as using product that was designed for the job.

    I am now going to edit this thread to keep it on topic without the battle.
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2012
  8. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member ROTM Winner 1000 Posts


    I agree with the edit and appreciate the clarifying response.
  9. Roscopcoletrain

    Roscopcoletrain New Member

    Yeah the red one has to do with the brake controller. There are two red wires that go to fuse posts at the front of the fuse box. They're fine left off.
  10. PantheraUncia

    PantheraUncia Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    I just read this write up on batteries;

    So my thing is that I want batteries I can use with out having to run the engine longer than 5 minutes or so and worry about them draining too far that I have to be a jump when running 400-1000 watts through a stereo.

    That would put me in a "Deep Cycle" battery. But most of the time, I am only using that much power when I am driving so the alternator is essentially ruining the deep cycle battery.

    So if I want a battery or 2 batteries that can do what I want them to, and guarantee me at least 7 years of use between replacements, what do I go with?

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