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Lost oil pressure, now smoking from exaust

Discussion in 'Chevy C/K Truck Forum' started by BrandonCal, Dec 18, 2011.

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  1. BrandonCal

    BrandonCal New Member

    As I was on my way to class the other day I realised my check gauges pop on and bam, zero oil pressure. It'd go from none then skip back up to decent and it did that for a mile or so. Come to find out my oil filter housing blew the gaskets and o-rings out and the oil was just coming out as fast as you put it in. Well, the engine started knocking about the last 1/4 mile before I made it to my parking space. Nothing horrendous sounding but a definite noticeable knocking. I had the gaskets and o-rings replaced and the oil is up to where it should be. But now it's smoking out of the exaust pretty good. The knocking has went away and it idles and runs just fine aside from the smoking. It's a 1993 Silverade K1500 4x4 5.7. i've yet to take it back to my mechanic but I'm just wondering as to what could be causing this? I've been thinking the valve seals and hoping it's not the head gasket. Any ideas? (It never did lose 100% of the oil but enough to not register on the dip stick)
     
  2. dipstick

    dipstick Member 2 Years 100 Posts

    Sounds like rebuild time to me .. if engine knocked any amount of time not good.
    Probably messed rings on pistons up.
     
  3. Scott_Anderson

    Scott_Anderson Member 2 Years 100 Posts

    I'd say the same thing. Any knock like that is bad news, no matter how long it lasted.

    If the oil was leaking from the filter adapter, then it was leaving the engine before it could get to anything in the engine that needed it. No matter how much would have been left in the pan, it wasn't getting where it was needed, so the damage is most likely done.
     
  4. BrandonCal

    BrandonCal New Member

    Ok yeah.. Figured that'd end up having to be done. Do you think it'd be safe to drive at all? Or risky..?
     
  5. tbplus10

    tbplus10 Epic Member Staff Member 5+ Years 5000 Posts Platinum Contributor

    The damage is done, knocking is probably bearings, they wont heal up.
    If you dont have to run the engine it'd be better, but more than likely you need the truck to get around and a rebuild is not gonna happen in the next few days.
    If you decide to continue to run the engine I wouldnt use it for any long trips, I'd stay local to the house with it, plan on possibly having more internal damage.
    If I felt I needed to keep driving it before a rebuild I'd look at sourcing a replacement engine rather than dealing with this one that may end up to internally damaged to economically be rebuilt.
    Look at a low mileage take out, the price normally runs a little less than a rebuilt, the downside of a takeout is you usually wont get any type warranty like you normally get witha remanufactured engine.
    Rebuilding the engine you have usually ends up being more expensive and isnt worth the extra money to keep things numbers matching unless this is a special truck that'll be of value to a collector, and again you wont have any type warranty.
     
  6. phoebeisis

    phoebeisis Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    tbplus10's advice seems good to me.
    It is usually a mistake nowadays to try to save money by rebuilding it yourself and bring it here and there to get machining done.
    IT ALWAYS ALWAYS ends up costing more $$ and lots of times the machine work is not up to OEM standards- or you get the wrong size bearings etc
    So sometimes you end up installing removing reinstalling it more than once-so you lose time and money
    Don't ask how I learned this-ha,ha-I seem to always have a learning curve that includes screwups.

    You are probably short of $$-many of us are-so it might not be possible to buy a Genuine new replacement GM Goodwrench-
    But if you had the $$ you could get one delivered curbside for just $2000- no kidding a new GM motor delivered by truck to your curb at home for just $2000!!
    The later model Vortec one for my 1998 is just $2300 delivered curbside!!
    This is probably 1/3 what it would cost to buy a NEW OEM Ford 5.0 or 5.4 or 4.6-and maybe 1/5 what it would cost to buy a new Toyota 4.7 V-8.
    One of the HUGE pluses of GM trucks-that lets you keep them on the road for 12-15-20 years is good quality OEM parts are available and cheap-aftermarket parts are also available-and cheaper-you can probably get a crate aftermarket rebuild for $1300 delivered

    New GM for $2000 Rebuild aftermarket maybe $1300 salvage takeout maybe $500 or so-maybe less-the takeout will be a gamble of course-maybe 20 years old
    Drive it gently- I might use heavier than 5w30 weight oil- in the cold weather 20w50 will take a long time to get where it needs to be, but... maybe it will fill the big dents gouges you have in your bearing -maybe 10w30 ??don't go far from home cross your fingers
    Get a triple A membership so you don't have to pay tow charges-
    Can you work on it at home??
    Luck
    Charlie
     
  7. BrandonCal

    BrandonCal New Member

    Thanks for the advice everybody. I never did think of using a heavier weight oil Charlie. Good idea. Definitely couldn't hurt anything to try I'd suppose. If I can get one for $2000 then that sounds like a good deal. Might have to save up for it but that sounds good. I've found an engine rebuild kit on Ebay for $319.00 from Red Line Engine Supply.

    This Rebuild Kit will Include:
    • Piston Set (KB-Silvolite)
    • Piston Rings (Hastings)
    • Rod Bearings (King)
    • Main Bearings (King)
    • Full Gasket Set
    • Rear Main Seal & Valve Stem Seals
    • Timing Set (Cloyes/Melling)
    • Oil Pump (Melling)
    • Camshaft Bearings
    • Freeze Plugs
    • Camshaft
    • Lifters
    Charlie, where might I go about finding one for around $2000? via website or whatever it may be. Oh an definite thumbs up for the triple A advice. That really never crossed my mind. I'm gettin' right on that.
     
  8. phoebeisis

    phoebeisis Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    Here-I
    http://www.crateenginedepot.com/sto...GM-ENGINE-1987-1995-New-12568758-P63C273.aspx
    is one site-crate engine depot- but their price would be more like $2400 delivered-pretty sure they are NOT the lowest price
    There are several cheaper sites- but I forget their names-they were more performance oriented-so search crate 350 or some such
    Name is on tip of tongue- not that $2400 is bad for a new engine- but $2100 or so is better

    The problem with the rebuild kits is the machining-crank block heads -and correct reassembly- it is easy to screw up and if you do you have to start all over- the machining will be $500 or so easy - need special tools to install valves-
    It might be fun if you have an experienced- very experienced- buddy that has done it SEVERAL times already-not so much fun if you are just stumbling thru it with a buddy who "has rebuilt an engine before" yeah his 2 stroke motorcycle- or lawn mower.
    You won't know what bearings to order until you have crank machined-

    I would hunt for the best price on a new Goodwrench-pretty sure you can do better than the one I found.Keep your eyes pealed for a good salvaged motor-some guy will advertise on CL "good 350" etc- $350 or so.
    You have to size up the motor seller-is he a thief?? Hard to tell sometimes.
    Charlie
    Charlie
     
  9. Scott_Anderson

    Scott_Anderson Member 2 Years 100 Posts

    Something else to keep an eye open for would be a whole truck you could pull the engine from. You can stumble across them sometimes, rebuilders, etc...
    Be wary of any whole used engines that may be coming from areas that have been flooded lately, you don't want one of those.
     
  10. BrandonCal

    BrandonCal New Member

    Thanks fellas! I'll start my hunt in the morning :great:
     

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