Low idle miss...

Discussion in 'General Chevy & GM Tech Questions' started by daddytech, Dec 23, 2009.

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  1. daddytech

    daddytech New Member 100 Posts

    My 99 Tahoe all of a sudden started missing at rpms below 2000 shortly after a fuel pump replacement. I replaced the pump with one of those Aero tech aftermarket pumps but it's doing it's job still checked the pressure and that was fine. My neighbor suggested I try the cap and rotor button. when i took the old cap off there was what appeared to be plastic shavings on each spark post inside the cap.

    I had already purchased a cap and rotor button set from Autozone, (thier everlast gold set) and went to put the screws back in the cap to button everything back up. Now here's the problem... The back screw near the firewall tightens up like it should the front one however is stripped out and will not tighten back up. i was using a T15 screw driver to take it out and put it back in so it's not like it got wrenched down on or over tightened. The ring it tightens up in appears to be plastic and even the longer screws that came with the new cap will not tighten up except in the back

    does this mean i will have to have a whole new distributor now?? or does someone else have a better idea?

    i am open to all suggestions here
  2. unplugged

    unplugged New Member 1000 Posts 100 Posts

    Redneck method: Use a larger screw. (I'm from Arkansas, so this might be my choice) :glasses:
    Recommended: New distributor.

    As my mechanic likes to say: "It's a hand grenade and the pin has been pulled."
  3. daddytech

    daddytech New Member 100 Posts

    ok so i got a larger screw and put in the distributor and it held ok but wound up snapping the screw mount off of the distributor and the cap of course started flopping and eventually due to the flopping i started getting mifire P308 codes out of the computer. not wanting to be experiencing this over and over i bought a new distributor for the truck to do things the right way

    I made sure to put the new distributor back in the exact way the other one was in the block so as to not have to go through a bunch of garbage with it being like a tooth off or something and never being in time properly. well i think i failed miserably.. . i cleared the codes with my code reader and retested it because the light went out and came right back on again. i was getting P308 cyl 8 misfire and P1345 ignition timing code. i find out there is some kind of calibration that is supposed to be done with the cam sensor (the wires that plug into the base of the distributor under the cap) but i cannot find anything about how to calibrate that sensor at all on any of the sites i look at. any one have any ideas??? HELP !!!

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