Me and my GMC

Discussion in 'Chevy Suburban Forum (GMC Yukon XL)' started by Turbogus, Apr 25, 2016.

  1. Turbogus

    Turbogus Active Member 100 Posts

    So last night picking up some low dose asprin and distilled water for my CPAP I pulled into BiMart and upon returning to BBB (Big Blue Beast) the truck didn't start again, same story, not a peep from the Solenoid or Starter. So I played the waiting game I'm becoming accustomed to, after a couple more attempts I smacked the bottom of the steering column and she started right up. Despite the mech. at the shop steering me towards the Starter Relay and terminals I'm thinking more along the lines of the Starter Switch, given the proximity of it in the column.
    I've seen these things run from around $30 to $145, mindful that my family is on welfare I cannot go for the top of the mark part despite my desire to stick with my OEM or better idiom of when I had a good income only a few years ago.
     
  2. Turbogus

    Turbogus Active Member 100 Posts

    So another day at the auto shop, pulled the starter (how small and cute it is compared to the Chevy's of my past) and found some oxidation on the terminals of the Solenoid that I wire brushed and dielectric greased, also signs of oxidation where the wire feeds to the battery. I really hate the battery terminals on this rig, they look no better than the clamp and squish the wire kind. Ran the starter down to the local Advance Auto Parts joint to test the dingus since it was already out, but no one on the staff could figure out how to use the new test machine. Checked continuity of the purple wire from the starter relay to the Solenoid and it is solid. After addressing these oxidation issues she started right up, but I'm not holding my breath.
     
  3. thegawd

    thegawd Rockstar 2 Years 1000 Posts

    progress and process of elimination. nothing wrong with that. good luck and take it easy Gus!
     
  4. Turbogus

    Turbogus Active Member 100 Posts

    Thanks for sticking with this thread thegawd. It's early yet to see if I finally got on top 0f this thing, I've noticed the Voltmeter is steadier around 14V indicated and it may be my imagination but my headloights seem a little brighter, still have the LED's coming in the mail though. I know better than to neglect my electrical system and after adding a second battery to 'Black Betty' my '78 CJ5 I'm very familiar with battery, starter and alternator care, not to mention the electric fans I wired up with a scabbed in relay box and Fan assembly.

    Now I just have to find a wire path from the dash switches to the firewall, going to continue on my fog light thread.
     
    thegawd likes this.
  5. Turbogus

    Turbogus Active Member 100 Posts

    She's been starting up like a champ since, I'm going to take a closer look at the alternator for oxidation as well when I get a chance.
     
    thegawd likes this.
  6. Turbogus

    Turbogus Active Member 100 Posts

    It turned out that the "Chevy" mech at the shop that put the motor in overtorqued the battery connection at the solenoid to the point the plastic header of the solenoid was loose. I thought I was the only one with orangatan arms :p I've been guilty of this on "BB" with it's Ford solenoid.
     
  7. Turbogus

    Turbogus Active Member 100 Posts

    Went out to the boneyard today hoping to find the Kelsey Haynes ABS unit to do that opening up and solder work. My ABS light has been intermittently going off since I got BBB last spring. Despite external appearances I pulled one that had all of the same external connections both hydraqulic and electrical but it was for a '99. My truck is a '96 and according to their crossover ONLY '96 & '97 will work ~ Dang
    But for the cost of a couple of hot cocoa's I did come away with a hood release cable and latch and brake release cable and latch for no more money than the cocoa.

    ...and I got some practice on how to disconnect these things.
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2017
  8. Turbogus

    Turbogus Active Member 100 Posts

    I got the parking brake release cable and hadle in, went easier than I thought, the hood release cable took a little more effort but loosening the top of the grill helped with the routing of the cable, which works ever time now instead of having to slam a door or something.
    The handle though seems to be on it's last legs, I'm going to try and reinforce it but doesn't anyone by now make a more substantial replacement for these plastic dingus'?
     
  9. Turbogus

    Turbogus Active Member 100 Posts

    I got a plastic washer and a rubber coated (one side) steel washer for reinforcement. The stuff I've used before is plastic welder a gawdawful smelling epoxy but when I used this to repair a broken corner of a Ford Power Distribution Block it firmed up better than the plastic itself. I hope I have the same results with this.

    [​IMG]

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    Last edited: Jan 25, 2017
  10. Turbogus

    Turbogus Active Member 100 Posts

    Applied Devcon Plastic Welder and I'm letting it do it's thing. Takes 24 hours to fully cure so I'll post the results tomorrow.

    [​IMG]

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    Last edited: Jan 26, 2017

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