More power and speed!!

Discussion in 'Performance & Fuel' started by Jrod89, Oct 27, 2013.

  1. Jrod89

    Jrod89 New Member

    Ok guys, I need some advice here. I have added a diablo tune and a cold air intake to my 5.3l. I'm looking for some more performance mods that are fairly cost-effective (not looking to spend 2-3k on a turbo) and will give me more power/speed. A custom tune from Lew is next for me so I know that will help as well. Thanks for any help/ advice!
  2. dobey

    dobey Epic Member 5+ Years 500 Posts

    The only way you're going to get more speed, is to change the gear ratios in the trans and diff, or change the internals in the engine, so you can reliably rev it out to higher RPMs.

    If you mean acceleration, then you want to make more low end torque, or lose weight. Or you can change the gears in the trans or diff, too.

    If you don't want to spend the money though (2-3K isn't that much to spend), you're basically not going to get much of anything. Power costs money.
  3. Enkeiavalanche

    Enkeiavalanche Loving the Outdoors Staff Member 5+ Years ROTM Winner 5000 Posts

    did you do Exhaust? As said above if you want more you will spend some $$$ But also keep in mind your MPG's Also if you are going to do this also look in to better brakes,and Sway bars and tires... Are you looking to lift the truck?
  4. Jrod89

    Jrod89 New Member

    Yeah I am definitely interested in new brakes and a lift but that's a significant upgrade since it's over 2k. Any advice on a new brake system? Also I don't know the advantage of upgrading the sway bars?? I'm thinking a rancho 4" lift btw.
  5. 00chevy53

    00chevy53 Rockstar 100 Posts

    Look into stainless brake lines and upgrade your brake rotors as far as slotted or slotted and drilled... Summit racing should have all that for around $600... But as far as the power is concerned from where your at its gonna cost money... If your looking for top end speed you need a cam that's gonna bring you into 6500rpm and stay away from any gear ratios above 3.42

    i guess what I'm getting at is if you want speed as far as 1/4 mile or top end?
  6. tbplus10

    tbplus10 Epic Member Staff Member 5+ Years 5000 Posts Platinum Contributor

    Keep in mind you have an AFM engine, perfomance parts may not be as plentiful and prices will certainly be higher, maybe not even within your budget.
  7. Jrod89

    Jrod89 New Member

    I have added a flowmaster exhaust btw. I forgot to mention that. I only replaced the muffler though. Is there an argument to be made for an entirely new true dual system? Would I see real increases from this?

    I am looking at 1/4 mile speed not top end speed btw. Faster off the line is my goal and thanks for all the help!
  8. 00chevy53

    00chevy53 Rockstar 100 Posts

    That's as simple as putting in a bigger stall converter and changing rear end gears... Your looking at about 3-500 for the stall alone.
  9. dobey

    dobey Epic Member 5+ Years 500 Posts

    Stay away from drilled/slotted rotors. If you want big brakes, you need to get a kit, and it's going to be around $2500 for a good kit. SSBC and Brembo are generally good, top end stuff. And don't bother with stainless steel flexible lines for your brakes either. Stainless steel hard lines are a good upgrade, but not entirely necessary depending on where you live. If you deal with road salt or live near the ocean with salty sea air, then it's highly recommended. If you don't have to deal with salt, then the stock lines should last long enough. Hard lines can be a pain to replace. Some models of truck/suv require pulling the bed or cab off to change them.

    Stay away from a "true dual" system. It's not worth the money. The only thing you'll get out of a true dual system is the weird burble sound that you might love, and decreased performance. A good dual exit system is fine though. Banks makes some good full systems. Also, don't bother with long tube headers. They're a waste of money in a truck.

    - - - Updated - - -

    You're going to need a lot more than a cam, in an AFM equipped engine, to go 6500+ RPM reliably. An AFM delete will need to be done. That includes at least cam, lifters, springs, keepers, and retainers. It requires pulling the heads. And swapping the valley cover and oil pump would also be highly advisable, as the pump for the AFM engines can create an oil starvation problem when only the cam/valvetrain are swapped.

    Also, the 3.42 rear gear limit is silly for top end speed. A 4.10 rear gear, with 285/45-22 tires, and stock 6L80e gear ratios, will theoretically take a stock AFM 5.3 to 202 MPH at 6000 RPM. There's no way you're going to have a stable ride in a stock bodied truck, going that fast, even if you had enough distance to get to that speed. But a 4.10 will allow one to get up to speed much faster, which is all you need in a truck, because you're not going to go over 150 MPH in a stock bodied truck anyway, and only then in 1/4 mile if you're pushing a lot of power to the wheels, such that you could run a low 9 second quarter mile.
  10. Jrod89

    Jrod89 New Member

    That's great input. Thanks for the information!

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