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need help asap! 2000 Silverado rear end clunking

Discussion in 'GM Powertrain' started by reggiecab2000, Jan 18, 2013.

  1. reggiecab2000

    reggiecab2000 Member

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    was picking up a friend from his house and all of a sudden leaving the last stop light before getting back to my apartment, i hear a horrible clunking sound from somewhere around my driveshaft.
    heres a video i shot real quick, let me know if you can help me diagnose it please, i dont think i should be driving my truck in this condition....




    i have had that notorious clunking sound in the rear end for a while now when you depart a stop light, but this continuous clunking literally popped out of nowhere, it happens in drive and reverse.
    #1
  2. Sierraowner5.3

    Sierraowner5.3 New Member

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    not sure dude. u joints or the rear end maybe....

    ring gear?

    im not a good person for this kind of stuff..

    Alex
    #2
  3. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator

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    It sounds like the rear end to me. Can you put your hand on it and "feel the sound"? That is the only way I can describe it. Can you feel the clunking in the rearend? You can try putting a long prybar in between the yokes and see it you get any movement in the u-joints. I have also seen the bushing in the back of the trans (where the slip yoke slides in) go bad. When I have seen those bad they only clunk on stop and accel.

    - - - Updated - - -

    So, I listened to it multiple times. It could be a ujoint. It is really hard to tell in a video. Why don't you park it on level ground, block the tires and pull off the drive shaft. It will take you 5 minutes. That way you can manipulate the joints by hand and see if they feel crunchy. If it is a u joint it should be pretty obvious.
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  4. reggiecab2000

    reggiecab2000 Member

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    its not the U-joints, i just pulled the driveshaft, and they are good...

    its inside that hole where the slipyoke slides in...

    heres a video


    i tried to have a steady hand, but you really cant see anything with it anyway, with my ears i can hear the clunking in there, and if you have good eyes, you can see that shaft in there not rolling PERFECT, though i do not know if a brand new one should roll perfect or have SOME play or not. but with my hand on the tranny, i feel the clunking.....

    :(

    sounds expensive.......
    #4
  5. reggiecab2000

    reggiecab2000 Member

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    *bump*
    to anyone who might have an idea, and also if it indeed does end up being a complete rebuild, does anyone have any suggestions for upgrades or anything to add while its being rebuilt, ive heard talk of servos and such, anything that might make it better and prolong the life of my transmission.
    thanks
    gotta wait till tomorrow morning before i can get anywhere near a transmission shop
    #5
  6. jake's silverado

    jake's silverado New Member

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    Sorry I listened to both, at the first video it appeared to me that you had no play in the front U joint. Second video...Sorry I don't even want to guess.
    What I would do is take a long handled screw driver hold it to my ear and with it in drive place the metal end on the Tranny case at the end clossest to the drive shaft and the plastic end firmly on your ear (I also find it works better if you have one of those foam ear plugs in). move the metal end around and listen to where it sounds the loudest and then you may gain an idea what may be an issue if you have a drawing of some sort you may have a better idea. Sorry I realize this isn't much help!

    Keep us posted!
    #6
  7. RayVoy

    RayVoy Active Member

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    There should be a tail piece on the end of the tranny, it is removed when a transfer case is installed. If your lucky, the problem is in the tail piece and not the main body of the tranny.
    #7
  8. reggiecab2000

    reggiecab2000 Member

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    dropped my truck off at the transmission shop today, should be getting a call tomorrow!
    #8
  9. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member

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    Yikes.... :grrrrrr:
    #9
  10. reggiecab2000

    reggiecab2000 Member

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    they called back!
    they said they found evidence of a needle bearing in the planetary gear set that fell apart :/
    complete rebuild...


    they quoted $1953.24

    shop,labor,etc.

    with a 3-year, 75,000 mile warranty...

    is this a good price guys?
    #10
  11. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator

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    I would say that it depends on what they are going to replace. Many small shops just replace parts and do not check for other components being in spec and do not have the capabilities to test the trans prior to install. The warranty seems good. But, some remanufactures require the fluid lines and cooler to be flushed or a new radiator installed or an inline filter to be installed for the warranty to be honored. Be sure that if they are not rebuilding it that they do what is necessary to have the warranty honored. I would call around. Also, call a gm dealer and ask how much a GM SERTA rebuild trans goes for. They are rebuilt by GM, all parts are removed and inspected/measured to be sure that they are with in specs, filled with fluid, and hooked up and tested at the factory before shipping and have all the recent updates. I just called GM and asked about a SERTA trans for my 05 yukon xl 4x4. The price is $1549. Most of the trans shops around me charge $500 labor to R&R a trans. Many of the GM dealers around me have started giving major price breaks on labor if you have one installed by them. They are usually within $100 of the local trans shops for the price of a rebuild. Then you know that the entire trans was gone through, rebuilt, updated, and bench tested. If you have the capability of pulling it yourself and having a "bench job" done it will save you a considerable amount of money.
    #11
  12. reggiecab2000

    reggiecab2000 Member

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    well in the situation i am in with school starting tomorrow, I kind of have no choice. BUT...
    I have heard nothing but good things about this place from friends and some businesses that recommend them, also their reviews seem to be very good as well.
    also found out that they do include:(besides the full rebuild)

    1)replacing the torque converter with a reman. one
    2)they also will repair my rear main seal(which has leaked for years) for no labor charge except the price for the gasket
    3) and they use full synthetic fluid

    not to mention i did ask and find out they perform a full scale dynamometer test before reinstallation, so far everything seems pretty legit, not to mention they were very courteous as i walked into the door, unlike some other shops I have been to, they didnt make me feel like another number in line.

    im getting this repaired at Greatstate transmission, if any of you are curious...
    #12
  13. Skippy

    Skippy New Member

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    Dexron VI, which is the new recommended fluid in all GM transmissions that were built to run Dexron III (1993 or newer) is a fully synthetic fluid. It's a far better fluid than the Dexron III stuff. I'd be hecka surprised if your transmission shop is rebuilding a GM transmission and NOT using a "fully synthetic fluid."

    Just letting you know so that's not a deciding point for the shop. I'm running a fully built tranny, with significant upgrades, and the best fluid for it? Dexron VI. ;)

    As a counterpoint note, I spent right at $3K for a fully built transmission. I made the upgrades though, intentionally, as I have a 6.0L engine that will someday sport a Supercharger. I needed that sucker to be 600HP and 800+ ft/lbs torque compliant. On the flipside, I now NEVER am concerned about the transmission while towing my 9,900lbs 30ft travel trailer.

    It's WAY more transmission than is required for a daily driver though...
    Cheers,

    Skip
    #13
  14. reggiecab2000

    reggiecab2000 Member

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    haha didnt mean to make it sound like it was the only reason but, dexron VI? I will ask about it for sure. and if by chance that is not the fluid they are using, would you recommend I pay whatever difference there is in their brand vs. the dexron to get it in there?

    I also am going to ask about them installing the corvette servos and see what there take is, as ive heard from some people some transmission shops have no problem putting them in as they are designed for the 4l60e's just in the corvettes, not the trucks, and ill see if it affects the warranty as well. (a $16.99 upgrade)

    I have also heard talk of the transgo shift kit, but im still not set in stone, if that might be more than i need, because the last thing i want is to shorten the life of my transmission.

    still researching LOTS!!! but i need to make a decision on those two in the next two days or so...
    #14
  15. Skippy

    Skippy New Member

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    Dexron VI is a specification by GM. In fact, unlike many previous specs that just defined the performance of the fluid, Dexron VI, actually specifies the components of the fluid. What this means is that basically, Dexron VI is Dexron VI regardless of the brand. While it's possible that some brands will add a few things, the Dexron VI certification means that you can have confidence that a Dexron VI product is GM compliant on components. This is good for consumers.

    Corvette servos will definitely add some juice to your shifts. (Very VERY loosely, a servo is basically is a spring loaded fluid compressor that jams fluid into the valve at the shift to create a faster shift with greater holding power)

    Something you should be aware of though, is that the four speed tranmission has a really large gear gap between 1st and 2nd gears, meaning the difference in gearing is sufficient that with a Corvette servo installed, you'll find that the 1 to 2 shift is definitely more pronounced. It'll jolt ya forward a bit. I love it... but had to seriously soften the shifts once the shift kit was installed (see below).

    The shift kit will result in a far faster shift. This translates, with very few exceptions to a more pronounced jarring during the shift. This is accomplished by restricting the fluid at the valves, creating more pressure. During the shift, the pressure of the fluid determines how quickly the transmission shifts from one gear to the other. Basically, in an automatic transmission, BOTH gears are engaged simultaneously to achieve that buttery smooth shift that soccer moms love. The faster the shift from one gear to the other, and the greater the gear difference, the more the shift will feel like a jolt from one gear to another. For the most part, without a load this occurs with very little bone-jarring. With some load and a little foot into your pedal, you might find that you await the shifts with gritted teeth and clenched muscles (when I first got my tranny back, I thought I was going to slip a disk every time the thing shifted. I had to reduce line pressure to the minimum to make it comfortable to drive again... at 37 though, I'm not really interested in chirping the tires every gear. I wanted function and power, not "I can pee farther than you" shifts. :)

    OK, this is where some folks get it wrong (I know I did when I first was researching). It turns out this is exactly backward. The life of a transmission is largely determined by the state of the fluid. A 20 degrees decrease of average fluid temperature DOUBLES the life of the transmission (no joke). It's why Dexron VI is so good, it runs cooler! Servos and shift kits actually reduce the temperature in the transmission because the shorten the shift times. Instead of having the friction plates rub against each other for a long time, during a "buttery smooth" shift (raising fluid temperatures), the transmission shifts quickly, forcing the clutches to engage quickly. The same concept that wears out manual transmissions (riding the clutch) is what is accomplished in smooth transmission shifts. For the most part, customers are happy with it, because the life of the transmission is within their expectations.

    in short, the good news is that servos a shift kit that aren't overpowering your other components (causing mechanical jarring that breaks things in the transmission... which is why upgrades of clutches and other items often help) is going to increase the life of your tranny due to temperature reductions.

    That being said, do your transmission a gigantic favor and install an aftermarket transmission cooler. These will connect to your transmission lines, and will do two things. 1) add additional fluid capacity, and 2) decrease the operating temperature of your transmission. Both result in lowered temps. For about $40 you can add 50% or better to the life of your transmission. Cheap cheap cheap insurance. And they take about 30 minutes to install.

    Also, make sure, as you service your new transmission in the future that you replace the filter, not just do fluid exchanges. 100% flushes are great, but they help much when the filter gets clogged...

    Cheers!
    Skip
    #15
  16. reggiecab2000

    reggiecab2000 Member

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    well damn, thanks for every single bit of that information!
    I decided to do the servo swap, but opted not for the transgo shift kit...
    hopefully i should still be able to notice the difference.
    I dont want neck snapping shifts, but i do appreciate solid, firm shifts, seeing my girlfriend drives a nissan sentra with that horrible continuously variable transmission that has NO shift whatsoever! i hate that car to death!
    and as for transmission cooler, i will add one for sure and buy the escalade cluster as well to monitor the temp
    #16
  17. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator

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    Are you sure that the escalade cluster is "plug n play" as far as the temp sensor goes? I know that [MENTION=50075]SurrealOne[/MENTION] added a stepper motor to his cluster and it did not work. He was trying to find a competent tech with a tech II to make it work. Let us know if it works. I am interested in a trans temp gauge also. Those continuously variable transmissions are weird. A few years back we test drove a mini cooper with one. It was like driving a GoCart
    #17
  18. reggiecab2000

    reggiecab2000 Member

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    yes I am sure, i spent about 2 solid days searching all over the internet for this exact situation...
    our clusters ARE prewired for the transmission temperature sensor, and I WOULD go that route because I am competent with my soldering skills. but as I have learned, in order to make the trans. temperature gauge work, you will have to have your cluster reprogrammed after adding the stepper motor assembly, which ruins the whole idea of doing it myself personally.

    and after you risk not aligning the needles back up perfectly AND buying a new face for the cluster AND paying to have it programmed, you already close enough in budget to have bought an escalade cluster with way less of the hassle and it has a nice look to it as well, nothing to crazy and stupid but a nice clean look, and with the trans gauge it comes with (it works plug 'n' play) you also now have updated from a 100 mph speedo to a 120 mph speedo, which works as well!
    im looking at one on ebay right now for $250.00, which is about as low as they get.

    CVT is unsafe i hate it, when you need to step on the gas to avoid something sudden, it doesnt respond, it takes its sweet, soft, friendly time to gradually increase the rpm according to how much force you applied to the gas pedal, so as to not even knock over a glass of water on your dash, by that time you already got T-boned lol
    #18
  19. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator

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    I looked around and found one for $240 and they program it with your proper mileage.
    #19
  20. reggiecab2000

    reggiecab2000 Member

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    link, please?
    #20

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