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New Toyo Open Country AT II

Discussion in 'Wheels & Tires' started by 2011laserblue, Feb 4, 2013.

  1. 2011laserblue

    2011laserblue New Member

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    Didn't realize Toyo came out with a new version of the Open Country AT....I think I'm a little late on this but I haven't seen a thread about them so I figured I would start one!

    As some of you might know, I was really torn on my next set of tires...decided I was going to to with the Toyo MT's....but now I see these new AT's and I might reconsider my decision.

    Anyone running these or know someone running these? 65,000 mile warranty on them...pretty impressive. If you don't like them after 500 miles you can give them back...

    They look REALLY nice...best looking AT tire I've seen. It actually looks like their MT, just a little more mild. They come in "Extreme" for the bigger sizes, I'm hoping a 305/55/20 falls under that category, because then they look even better.

    I'm still probably around 80 percent sure I still want the MT's...the general consensus seems to be that they handle extremely well for an MT on the road, and people get pretty good mileage out of them..some in excess of 40,000 miles. I like having the option to go offroading and not worry about getting stuck that I will get with the MT's. I'm not an extreme offroader, but like I said, I like having the option. However, if the AT's are substantially cheaper, because I've heard the MT's come with a price, I will probably go with the AT's and get over 60,000 miles out of them. I haven't been able to find prices on either.

    Thoughts? Thanks guys!


    Here's what it looks like...unsure about the size. Looks like around a 33 to me..

    [​IMG]
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  2. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member

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    Looks like in a 20" rim size your 305 options are 305/50R20 AND 305/60R20. (No 55% profile option...)
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  3. 2011laserblue

    2011laserblue New Member

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    I can always count on you, surreal. :glasses:
    Where did you see those sizes at? I just checked toyo's website and I see a 305/55/20...I just have no way of telling if it is the "XTREME" version, which is a much more aggressive sidewall pattern. I guess I'll just head over to a tire shop and ask myself...will probably get my answer quicker... :)
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  4. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member

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    I checked to see what 4wheelparts had for sale on the AT2's. I mean it's one thing for Toyo to say they sell something, but in addition to them selling it you actually need someone to carry it ... so you should search vendor sites. :)
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  5. 2011laserblue

    2011laserblue New Member

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    Heres something that made me scratch my head....
    Have heard guys talk about how heavy the MT's are....but according to toyo's spec sheet on their website, it shows the ATII's being heavier....

    33x12.5x20 Open Country MT
    Overall diamater (inch) 33", width (inch) 12.6", weight, 71.7lbs

    305/55/20 Open Country ATII
    Overall diameter (inch) 33.2", width, 12.4, weight, 73.9lbs

    I thought the MT's were heavier? And why would they have metric sizes for one tire, but standard sizes for another?

    Figured you could help with this one [MENTION=50075]SurrealOne[/MENTION]
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  6. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member

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    I've not heard that MT's are heavier than AT's, so I can't speak to that. (Frankly, I also just don't care about 2.2lbs per tire.)

    I also can't speak to why there'd be metric sizes for one and standard for the other. I see that a fair bit and I just convert between them with a converter when I need to do so.
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  7. 2011laserblue

    2011laserblue New Member

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    I have not heard about the AT's being heavier than the MT's either...it is just something I noticed when looking at the spec sheet. Some of the reviews that I have been reading though suggested that the Toyo MT's are just a heavy tire in general. With the 33x12.50x20 being nearly 72 pounds, they are 10lbs heavier than the 305/55/20 duratracs I am currently running..

    I'm not all that concerned with 2.2lbs per tire myself, I just thought it was a bit odd to see the MT tire (which has been said to be heavy) be lighter than the new AT tire.

    Regardless, what will ultimately come down to for me is price. If the At's are substantially cheaper, I will go with them. If it is only a couple hundred more to go with the MT, I will do that and have a much more "capable" tire.

    At least I have a plan...before I didn't have a clue :neutral:

    What do you think about the weight difference? Is it a big deal to add an additional 40 pounds to stupid 3.08 gears?
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  8. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member

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    It's probably not that odd. MT's have bigger gaps in the tread pattern in order to evacuate mud/water from them. On an AT these gaps are smaller -- meaning there's more material present than on a MT in order to fill in that space. That's one theory, anyway -- which may or may not be correct -- but which makes logical sense.

    I would not run 33's on 3.08 gears; the truck would be a dog off the line and drop out of OD on inclines that it otherwise wouldn't with proper gearing. (Your 6-speed makes that less noticeable MPG-wise than it is on a 4-speed tranny.) Heck, my truck was a dog off the line with 3.73's and 34" tires -- which is why I regeared not long after the tires were put on the truck.
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  9. Chuggo

    Chuggo New Member

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    I just had a set of Toyo OC MT's put on today - 35x12.50 r20. Tried to get a set of the ATII's but they are on national backorder. Manufacturer said they wouldn't be available until April. Hope the MT's will suffice as I drive mainly highway with occassional offroad on the beaches here in Texas.
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  10. 2011laserblue

    2011laserblue New Member

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    Yeah, my truck is a dog off the line..and I drop out of OD on very slight inclines. Been trying to get through it though. I would like to re-gear but you would obviously have to mess with the trucks computer to reset everything. I wanted to re-calibrate my speedo for going up to 33" tires but the dealer said that it would void the warranty? So..that is why I haven't re-geared yet.

    I would really like to go up to a 3.73 or 4.10. I know I had a thread where you and others provided a lot of valuable information. With the 6 speed I'm almost thinking 3.73s. Gearing low scares me...I don't want my truck screaming on the highway, which honestly is where I spend about 70 percent of my time.
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  11. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member

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    The sad thing is that by trying to preserve the warranty (by not regearing) you'll be hurting your transmission. Pushing 33's instead of OEM sizes will be like having the truck on a mild incline all the time. That's added wear .. and you'll likely pay for it down the road ... after your warranty is gone, of course. The previous owner of my truck did the same thing and I've got a tranny rebuild in my near future as a result.

    4.10's will be fine on the highway with 33's ... and will convey a slight bias for power. They'll take your truck from a dog to downright punchy off the line. They'll also provide enough of a power bias to allow you to move to 34's or 35's without regearing again ... something you couldn't do with 3.73's, as they're really only adequate for your 33's.
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  12. 2011laserblue

    2011laserblue New Member

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    You don't think the 4.10's will be too much for now? I mean I do have the six speed so I think that will help. I was actually running darn near 2000 RPM's on the highway from Michigan to Louisville at about 75...it wouldn't shift into sixth unless I got on the brakes and let it settle down. I'm 500 miles away from the 36,000 mile warranty. I was having some electrical issues so I took it in today. It is moments like that where I'm glad that I still have the warranty. But you think I'd be better off in the long run to just do it?
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  13. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member

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    Consider that with my 34.3" tires and 3.73's my truck felt like a dog ... so I'm not about to recommend you move to 3.73's when running 33" tires, as I know they're barely adequate...

    With my 4spd and 4.56's I run 2200ish at ~65 and it's just not a big deal. My fuel econ IMPROVED when I regeared from 3.73's specifically because I stopped falling out of overdrive and didn't downshift as much on inclines ... and when I did downshift it went from 2 gears down ... to one down in most cases. If I run much over 65-70 my fuel econ falls away, again; my sweet spot is from 50-65 or thereabouts.

    With your 6spd you'll do better in terms of RPM's and fuel econ ... and you'll have less of a power bias than I do with my 4.56's if you go 4.10's. The 4.10's will give you low end grunt that you'll love ... and also allow you options that the 3.73's won't give you (i.e. upsizing tires later if you want). If I had your truck I'd definitely go with 4.10's.

    Your 3yr/36k mi bumper-to-bumper coverage is nearly done, however, many of your powertrain components should still have 5yr/100k mi coverage. If it were me I would look very carefully at the powertrain coverage to see what, specifically, is covered under the 5yr/100k mi portion. I'd then go talk to a dealership and ask them what, specifically, would not be covered if you regeared to 4.10's. They should be able to tell you that, up front. They won't want to, of course, but you should be able to get it out of them.

    The best scenario would be having the dealership regear you to 4.10's so you could keep your coverage. You'll pay through the nose for it in terms of parts and labor, but you may be able to keep your powertrain warranty intact that way. It's worth an ask. If they won't do that, then you need to look at the list they claim will be invalidated by a regear and decide if the risk is acceptable to you based on that.

    You should, by the way, get whatever dialog you have with them in writing ... so that if you do decide to move forward and need to use your powertrain warranty ... they can't tell you something different later without you being able to pull out your written (by them) list and call BS on them.


    So, in a nutshell, do your homework and make an informed decision based on the results...
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2013
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  14. 2011laserblue

    2011laserblue New Member

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    Surreal,

    Thank you again for another great response, I really appreciate all of the information you have given me from time to time on the site. I also appreciate your patience on re-occuring questions.

    I will definitely ask the service guys those questions and make a decision from there, this really is something I would like to do later down the road.

    My biggest concern is just RPM's at about 75 because that is how a majority of my driving is done. I shouldn't really be concerned with MPG's too bad with a lifted truck, but I don't think I'm wild about getting 10 miles to the gallon either, although I'm almost certain it won't come down to that.

    The only thing really keeping me apprehensive is what my RPM's will be at that speed on the highway - however, as you pointed out, the six speed should help with that.

    If you had to guess...what numbers do you think I would be seeing MPG/RPM wise at 75? I've tried to do some research but couldn't find very much information.

    And when you say "you'll pay through the nose" - how much is that? 1-2 grand?

    Thank you so much, again, I really appreciate all of your help.
    #14
  15. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member

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    I have no experience with the 6spd trannies or what they run RPM-wise with OEM gearing, so I have no basis on which to make a reasonable estimate of where you might land. You should probably comb through the garages, here, to find someone who has regeared a NNBS truck and ask them ... or post a thread on the subject of regearing a NNBS.

    Most of the gearing charts out there are based on a 1:1 gear ratio at 65mph, so if that's what's scaring you, don't let it. i.e. For my 4spd tranny the gearing charts are for third gear and don't consider my 4th/OD gear when showing RPM's. I don't know anything about the 6spd ratios so I'm not sure what gear is 1:1 on the 6spd trannies.

    As for paying through the nose - my regear ran me a bit more than 1500 clams from a specialty shop (East Coast Gear Supply) that does LOTS of diff work. That was for both the front and rear diff (had to do both diffs since I have a 4x4) and included all parts/labor. After break-in there was also a diff fluid change required and that ran another 70ish clams. Consider that's a local shop, not a stealership ... so it didn't have the insane markup or labor costs stealerships have. You need to expect to pay more. Also consider that prices have gone up on just about everything in the last year. I think 2k is the least you should expect to pay from about anywhere ... and it could run closer to 2500 or 3000 from a stealership -- if they will do it, at all. I'm just guessing, by the way; shop around in your area. Such pricing is always area- specific.

    If the dealership is doing it you should also have them adjust your speedo for your tires and make sure there's no idiot lights on after the regear work. For those of us who did not have the work done at a stealership we use a tuner/custom tune to do such things. Consider that your fuel econ should improve from this so the mod will slowly pay for itself over time. If you were to invest in a tuner after the work AND do a custom tune you'd see an even faster return because of MPG improvements.

    To put that into perspective, I run a 6" lift, have the front valence removed, run on 4 Nitto trail grapplers and custom rims, carry a full-size matched spare and rim, carry a truck box full of heavy stuff [like jack stands, high ram bottle jack, WARN 30k lb rated snatch block, other heavy stuff], have 87lbs of winch and winch line on the truck [plus the weight of the winch carrier], have 200+ sq. ft. of heavy sound deadening in my truck, and have a long bed .... and my regear plus custom tune has me getting 13-15mpg on the winter mix (i.e. 2mpg under factory/OEM fuel econ for my truck) ... and 14-16mpg on the summer mix with the AC going (i.e. 1mpg under factory/OEM fuel econ for my truck).

    Between the regear and the custom tuning I basically got 3.5mpg back. I say 'back' because it's fuel econ originally lost due to mods (lift, heavy tires, etc.).
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  16. BlancoJustin

    BlancoJustin New Member

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    I'm running a set of 35's on my 2012 Silverado. They are great, mild highway noise and look amazing. I was lucky enough to get them roughly 3 days after they were released only by chance. Also the 65K warranty is a huge plus, and they aren't bad in the mud either!
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  17. dutzowmo

    dutzowmo New Member

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    I just put a set of 285/55/20 on last week. The price was competitive to other A/Ts but they are by far the most aggressive looking. I did notice a little more road noise from these compared to my old Hanhook Dynapros. The 65,000 miles rating is also hard to beat.
    photo 1 (1).jpg photo 4.jpg
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  18. 2011laserblue

    2011laserblue New Member

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    Thanks for the info and pics guys!

    I really think this is what I want to go with, hopefully they will be available. From what I've heard about toyo's MT tire and its tread life, I can only imagine how their AT will hold up.
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  19. JimmyA

    JimmyA Member

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    I have been quoted 2k for the 4:10 gear swap via 4WheelParts and matched by my Stealership Shop Manager. When I collect the 2k, i'll have the Stealership do the change. I had a long one on one and he said the warrenty would'nt be a issue.
    #19
  20. aloxdaddy99

    aloxdaddy99 New Member

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    I have a 6 speed tranny and 33's with 3.42 gears. My RPM's went up about 200 rpm at 75 mph with the new tires. I went to the same place as [MENTION=50075]SurrealOne[/MENTION] did to get an idea of price to redo my gears. I asked them what they would suggest for my tires. They said to go with the 4.10's (actually I think they said 4.11's). They said it would be in the area of $1400.
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