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New Toyo Open Country AT II

Discussion in 'Wheels & Tires' started by 2011laserblue, Feb 4, 2013.

  1. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member 1000 Posts

    The sad thing is that by trying to preserve the warranty (by not regearing) you'll be hurting your transmission. Pushing 33's instead of OEM sizes will be like having the truck on a mild incline all the time. That's added wear .. and you'll likely pay for it down the road ... after your warranty is gone, of course. The previous owner of my truck did the same thing and I've got a tranny rebuild in my near future as a result.

    4.10's will be fine on the highway with 33's ... and will convey a slight bias for power. They'll take your truck from a dog to downright punchy off the line. They'll also provide enough of a power bias to allow you to move to 34's or 35's without regearing again ... something you couldn't do with 3.73's, as they're really only adequate for your 33's.
  2. 2011laserblue

    2011laserblue New Member

    You don't think the 4.10's will be too much for now? I mean I do have the six speed so I think that will help. I was actually running darn near 2000 RPM's on the highway from Michigan to Louisville at about 75...it wouldn't shift into sixth unless I got on the brakes and let it settle down. I'm 500 miles away from the 36,000 mile warranty. I was having some electrical issues so I took it in today. It is moments like that where I'm glad that I still have the warranty. But you think I'd be better off in the long run to just do it?
  3. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member 1000 Posts

    Consider that with my 34.3" tires and 3.73's my truck felt like a dog ... so I'm not about to recommend you move to 3.73's when running 33" tires, as I know they're barely adequate...

    With my 4spd and 4.56's I run 2200ish at ~65 and it's just not a big deal. My fuel econ IMPROVED when I regeared from 3.73's specifically because I stopped falling out of overdrive and didn't downshift as much on inclines ... and when I did downshift it went from 2 gears down ... to one down in most cases. If I run much over 65-70 my fuel econ falls away, again; my sweet spot is from 50-65 or thereabouts.

    With your 6spd you'll do better in terms of RPM's and fuel econ ... and you'll have less of a power bias than I do with my 4.56's if you go 4.10's. The 4.10's will give you low end grunt that you'll love ... and also allow you options that the 3.73's won't give you (i.e. upsizing tires later if you want). If I had your truck I'd definitely go with 4.10's.

    Your 3yr/36k mi bumper-to-bumper coverage is nearly done, however, many of your powertrain components should still have 5yr/100k mi coverage. If it were me I would look very carefully at the powertrain coverage to see what, specifically, is covered under the 5yr/100k mi portion. I'd then go talk to a dealership and ask them what, specifically, would not be covered if you regeared to 4.10's. They should be able to tell you that, up front. They won't want to, of course, but you should be able to get it out of them.

    The best scenario would be having the dealership regear you to 4.10's so you could keep your coverage. You'll pay through the nose for it in terms of parts and labor, but you may be able to keep your powertrain warranty intact that way. It's worth an ask. If they won't do that, then you need to look at the list they claim will be invalidated by a regear and decide if the risk is acceptable to you based on that.

    You should, by the way, get whatever dialog you have with them in writing ... so that if you do decide to move forward and need to use your powertrain warranty ... they can't tell you something different later without you being able to pull out your written (by them) list and call BS on them.


    So, in a nutshell, do your homework and make an informed decision based on the results...
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2013
  4. 2011laserblue

    2011laserblue New Member

    Surreal,

    Thank you again for another great response, I really appreciate all of the information you have given me from time to time on the site. I also appreciate your patience on re-occuring questions.

    I will definitely ask the service guys those questions and make a decision from there, this really is something I would like to do later down the road.

    My biggest concern is just RPM's at about 75 because that is how a majority of my driving is done. I shouldn't really be concerned with MPG's too bad with a lifted truck, but I don't think I'm wild about getting 10 miles to the gallon either, although I'm almost certain it won't come down to that.

    The only thing really keeping me apprehensive is what my RPM's will be at that speed on the highway - however, as you pointed out, the six speed should help with that.

    If you had to guess...what numbers do you think I would be seeing MPG/RPM wise at 75? I've tried to do some research but couldn't find very much information.

    And when you say "you'll pay through the nose" - how much is that? 1-2 grand?

    Thank you so much, again, I really appreciate all of your help.
  5. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member 1000 Posts

    I have no experience with the 6spd trannies or what they run RPM-wise with OEM gearing, so I have no basis on which to make a reasonable estimate of where you might land. You should probably comb through the garages, here, to find someone who has regeared a NNBS truck and ask them ... or post a thread on the subject of regearing a NNBS.

    Most of the gearing charts out there are based on a 1:1 gear ratio at 65mph, so if that's what's scaring you, don't let it. i.e. For my 4spd tranny the gearing charts are for third gear and don't consider my 4th/OD gear when showing RPM's. I don't know anything about the 6spd ratios so I'm not sure what gear is 1:1 on the 6spd trannies.

    As for paying through the nose - my regear ran me a bit more than 1500 clams from a specialty shop (East Coast Gear Supply) that does LOTS of diff work. That was for both the front and rear diff (had to do both diffs since I have a 4x4) and included all parts/labor. After break-in there was also a diff fluid change required and that ran another 70ish clams. Consider that's a local shop, not a stealership ... so it didn't have the insane markup or labor costs stealerships have. You need to expect to pay more. Also consider that prices have gone up on just about everything in the last year. I think 2k is the least you should expect to pay from about anywhere ... and it could run closer to 2500 or 3000 from a stealership -- if they will do it, at all. I'm just guessing, by the way; shop around in your area. Such pricing is always area- specific.

    If the dealership is doing it you should also have them adjust your speedo for your tires and make sure there's no idiot lights on after the regear work. For those of us who did not have the work done at a stealership we use a tuner/custom tune to do such things. Consider that your fuel econ should improve from this so the mod will slowly pay for itself over time. If you were to invest in a tuner after the work AND do a custom tune you'd see an even faster return because of MPG improvements.

    To put that into perspective, I run a 6" lift, have the front valence removed, run on 4 Nitto trail grapplers and custom rims, carry a full-size matched spare and rim, carry a truck box full of heavy stuff [like jack stands, high ram bottle jack, WARN 30k lb rated snatch block, other heavy stuff], have 87lbs of winch and winch line on the truck [plus the weight of the winch carrier], have 200+ sq. ft. of heavy sound deadening in my truck, and have a long bed .... and my regear plus custom tune has me getting 13-15mpg on the winter mix (i.e. 2mpg under factory/OEM fuel econ for my truck) ... and 14-16mpg on the summer mix with the AC going (i.e. 1mpg under factory/OEM fuel econ for my truck).

    Between the regear and the custom tuning I basically got 3.5mpg back. I say 'back' because it's fuel econ originally lost due to mods (lift, heavy tires, etc.).
  6. BlancoJustin

    BlancoJustin New Member

    I'm running a set of 35's on my 2012 Silverado. They are great, mild highway noise and look amazing. I was lucky enough to get them roughly 3 days after they were released only by chance. Also the 65K warranty is a huge plus, and they aren't bad in the mud either!
  7. dutzowmo

    dutzowmo New Member

    I just put a set of 285/55/20 on last week. The price was competitive to other A/Ts but they are by far the most aggressive looking. I did notice a little more road noise from these compared to my old Hanhook Dynapros. The 65,000 miles rating is also hard to beat.
    photo 1 (1).jpg photo 4.jpg
  8. 2011laserblue

    2011laserblue New Member

    Thanks for the info and pics guys!

    I really think this is what I want to go with, hopefully they will be available. From what I've heard about toyo's MT tire and its tread life, I can only imagine how their AT will hold up.
  9. JimmyA

    JimmyA Member

    I have been quoted 2k for the 4:10 gear swap via 4WheelParts and matched by my Stealership Shop Manager. When I collect the 2k, i'll have the Stealership do the change. I had a long one on one and he said the warrenty would'nt be a issue.
  10. aloxdaddy99

    aloxdaddy99 New Member 1000 Posts

    I have a 6 speed tranny and 33's with 3.42 gears. My RPM's went up about 200 rpm at 75 mph with the new tires. I went to the same place as [MENTION=50075]SurrealOne[/MENTION] did to get an idea of price to redo my gears. I asked them what they would suggest for my tires. They said to go with the 4.10's (actually I think they said 4.11's). They said it would be in the area of $1400.

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