I'm not an expert in actual N20- nitrous oxide injection-systems -which is best best bang for buck-etc But I am familiar with the How/Why it works And it works GREAT-bang for ## performance-kits as little as $600 last i checked chemistry-quick HS chemistry review N20 is a compound-meaning it is composed of at least 2 different elements- Nitrogen and Oxygen N20 is also a Molecule -meaning when N and O combine-they actually SHARE their outer electrons electrons are tiny tiny-charged particles-when they move-you get electricity-Lotta power energy tied up in electrons moving arranging-all chemical electrical magnetic energy in fact. So N20 has 2 NITROGEN atoms combined with 1 Oxygen atom How does it make power? SIMPLE- under higher temperatures easily reached in combustion chambers- it BREAKS APART and releases a VERY REACTIVE OXYGEN ATOM Simply inject it into the combustion chamber- WITH EXTRA FUEL!!! and it is like Pumping in more air- BUT BETTER No expensive turbo needed-clogging up intake and exhaust ALL THE TIME No expensive belt supercharger wasting energy plugging intake all the time So it is like a SUPERCHARGER-it adds more Oxygen-so you can BURN more fuel-make more power!! Upside 1)Cheap $600 a few year back 2) simple to install for low power say 50hp boosts 3)Simple to remove 4)Only works WHEN you push button 5) Only hurts MPG when you hit button(factory gasoline turbos usually come from factory with low compression pistons- 8/1 Downsides 1) If too lean-you don't pump in enough gasoline-it will break your motor-too hot too much pressure-melt piston 2) Even if enough fuel-it can break motor if motor not up to it-pistons crank -and timing concerns just like a turbo or supercharger 3) Limited range-you have to refill bottle-not sure how many runs per bottle-few runs per bottle 4)More HP requires more complicated install-dry systems mean you rely on your ECM to detect the extra Oxygen and adjust FI accordingly-but once you get to 75 extra hp or so-you might exceed what your FI system can easily handle- I think dry system means you rely on your EFI -wet system means you plumb in a separate fuel nozzle to spray in gasoline WITH the N20- wet more complicated more expensive-but probably safer-don't want to stint on fuel when running N2O RICH is good-lean is BAD History- Germans used N20 injection in fighters high altitude bombers recon planes in WW2-power at altitude where there is VERY LITTLE O2 in air Why not use LOX- liquid Oxygen-like a rocket or H2O2 Hydrogen Peroxide-like a rocket- BECAUSE TOO DANGEROUS TOO REACTIVE N20 is SAFE to handle- used in anesthesia-used in whipped cream bottles to make it fluff up and it also COOLS the intake charge-increasing power once again. Lotta poor kraut pilots DIED flying rocket planes at end of WW2-fuel was gasoline+ hydrogen peroxide- dangerous as heck Liquid "fuel" of shuttle-Oxidizing agent LOX dangerous N20 is best bang for $$-much better than headers CAI cam etc-requires some sort of ECM modifying chipping if you use higher power installs-say over 50hp "shots" Some of this might be wrong-in which case I stand corrected- Oh and a 50 hp shot is more or less the same amount of N20 no matter the vehicle motor because power produced is DIRECTLY PROPORTIONAL to O2 used per unit of time-meaning increase- if you use a certain amount of O2 per minute-you will produce a predictable amount of hp-no matter the engine Of course-not that simple-compression overlap burn efficiency all matter-but... in general double Oxygen in means double hp but the basic chemistry-is correct Which kit best-others will chime in-my suspicion- all name brands will deliver about as well. Well this is the general idea-adding N20 is just like adding more air-just BETTER CHEAPER COOLS MORE - Oh don't add boost at low RPMS harder on motor- bearings etc-your kit will tell you when to hit the button N20 is great-for under $1000 you can actually "feel" the torque HP increase- but no decrease in OEM drivability mpg throttle response NOISE when you DON'T want it. PS The krauts used methanol injection-and water injection-in their N2O systems to keep temps down-so wouldn't hole pistons with detonation- PPS Jegs sells a dry LSI kit for 98-2002 Firebirds for $632 75-100 hp-easy install barely double a CAI-but much much more power-bolt on-no change in noise of FE- except when you hit the button of course!!