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OEM u-joint replacement

Discussion in 'Chevy Silverado Forum (GMC Sierra)' started by nomak, Aug 9, 2014.

  1. nomak

    nomak New Member

    I have a 2005 Silverado LS 2wd V6 engine that needs u-joints replaced in it. I want to order some u-joints that are of better quality than that of auto zone. I have been looking at the MOOG brands on summit racing dot com and the have a few different selections that their page says will fit my truck. they have different size bearing cap diameters from series to series and also inside snap rings and outside snap rings. My question in since I'm replacing the OEM ones how do I know which ones exactly do I need. I looked at auto zone site for reference and same case different size caps and snap rings but all will fit. Since I only have one vehicle and it will be on jack stands while changing out the u-joints I want to make sure when I start this project I have purchased the correct replacement joints. Is there a way I can tell which ones I need to get as far as bearing diameter and also which style snap rings I need to go with ? Its a long ride to the parts store on bicycle if I do get the wrong ones and have to go exchange for different ones. thanks in advance for any insight or other brand joints to go with that will hold up good for my truck. I have used auto zones in the past and well their lifetime warranty lasted about 6 months on an S-10 I used to own lol. So trying to steer clear of them this time all together.
  2. j cat

    j cat Rockstar 3 Years 1000 Posts

    I had to do a U joint on a s10. used a national joint made in USA [ADVANCE AUTO] . also other U joints years ago I used only made in USA parts.

    as you should know the installer can surely screw up these to fail rather quickly. the yoke ears bent or hammering the new joint will kill it. then the greasing with a lithium based grease is required at every oil change.

    never had a u joint fail on a replacement ..

    always mark drive shafts before removal so they go back exactly as before................

    I would purchase all the U joints that are spec'd for your vehicle then return what is not needed...
  3. nomak

    nomak New Member

    while I wish I could afford to do so that's an expensive option and one only viable if the stores have that many and its a project that might not get to right away, I was wondering if there is something on the drive shaft itself I an look at to see if I need inside snap rings or outside snap rings. I did caliper the bearing caps on my truck and found out they are 1-1/8 diameter so that mystery is solved just need to find out on the snap rings and any other information that's out there. thanks for the info..

  4. j cat

    j cat Rockstar 3 Years 1000 Posts

    with this U joint on your vehicle there should be only 2 different parts ... you use the engine and the drive train to determine the correct U joint.

    how many U jionts have you done ? you go down to the advance auto store as an example .. buy with your credit card the U joints that you believe to fit .. then you go back when done and get credit total cost is for one U joint .. maybe 20 bucks ? no big deal unless you have no working experience with this .. if you do not have any of this work done before you best have someone guide you thru it.
  5. nomak

    nomak New Member

    I have changed u-joints in about probably 10 drive shafts in different cars or trucks in my time total of my 23 yrs working on vehicles. Im not a certified mechanic by any means but I have a lot of experience in engine and transmission rebuilds as well as other tune ups, brakes and other routine maintenance so yes I do know enough to change a u-joint oh and even have done body work in my ventures over the years in vehicle repair. Im venturing out on the net to look for a stronger more durable u-joint because on the last two u-joint and a carrier bearing that I have changed I have had to replace the rear joint within 6 months down the road so then I went with lifetime warranty instead of the 2 yr warranty ones and same thing. after a third time I finally got one to last and ended up selling the vehicle a yr or so later so now that my background is out here for you to see. I do not buy cheap auto zone parts for anything anymore because I have had problems with their plug wires their brake shoes and numerous other things including u-joints.. I have replaced enough of them to know that unless I want to replace them again in 6 months that im ready to go with a different and better brand. and yes now that I have measured them there are only two style u-joints that can fit my drive shaft. that's why I came here to get more insight on the matter in my first post I should have mentioned there are three different styles that will fit my driveshaft. I have narrowed it down to two now by measuring the bearing cap diameters. I just want to know if anyone has used MOOG style u joints on a 2005 Chevy Silverado 2wd V6 and which ones they went with. they are around 16 or 17 dollars a u-joint multiply that by four plus shipping and handling and then return cost of the ones not used and this is why im asking this question. not because I do not know what im doing or whatever your thinking but because I only want to have to order two u-joints and not have to ship them back finding out there the wrong ones. when it stops raining outside I will go out and measure the inside distance of my yoke and rear end to get the distance and get a better idea if I need the inside snap rings that self center the u-joint or if my yoke and rear end have locking tabs that center the u-joints that will need to be replaced with outside snap ring style. so again if anyone has experience with MOOG brand u-joints your thoughts and opinions on them would be appreciated. Also Spicer brand u-joints looking for info on those as well.. thanks in advance..
  6. j cat

    j cat Rockstar 3 Years 1000 Posts

    your questions about reliability has me puzzled. just get the made in USA ones. like I said I used national the last time a good quality product advance auto had it.. never mentioned AZ !


    again if chinese and they broke I believe it. if USA then you may have screwed it up..or the joint angle is too much and the joint is working hard...


    this stock height or its jacked up ?

    as far as plug wires go you buy ac delco wires. aftermarket wires are the wrong resistance. with a 6 cyl this can cause big problems..

    just because a plug wire is new means nothing.. you must check resistance before installing.

    I just looked up you joints should be moog 235.. 1 1/8 in..25 bucks ea..advance auto has them .. also on amazon.. differance is advance auto has lifetime warranty...

    235 should be for at tranny and rear axle on your vehicle.

    I would not buy internet because you have ship back issues... also MOOG USA product ??? hard to say if it is today.. so if made in some slave labor country I do not buy it..
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2014
  7. nomak

    nomak New Member

    unfortunately for me Im stuck with a Auto Zone, O-reillys, and a NAPA parts store that sometimes has what you need and sometimes you don't. I could go to the GM dealer and get them but im sure they cost an arm and a leg lol..

    On the wires comment you are spot on with buying AC-Delco especially with these v-6 vortecs. I have owned few vehicles with the vortec v-6 in them and have only bought AC-Delco wires, plugs, rotor, and cap since I learned my lesson with returning defective products from both Auto Zone and O-Reilly's.

    Napa I just don't really go there much because seems like every time I have went there to get something they had to order it and Im not sure if it was made in china or USA but I would rather buy an American made product for sure. Hate giving my hard earned money out for china made junk. That's why I was inquiring about MOOG products because they are supposed to be USA but who knows anymore. The closest Advance Auto is 30 miles away from me so I have never had the pleasure of purchasing anything from them. I will go check their website out and see what they got. thanks again.
  8. j cat

    j cat Rockstar 3 Years 1000 Posts

    I have been using advance lately. I use the HUGE50 code so I get 50 bucks off an order for parts of 175 bucks..

    MOOG is a crap shoot on the china manufacturing.. I have read lately that some have had issues with poor manufacturing with the u joints as some of the end caps do not fit correctly had to file down so they fit..or got another and it fit perfectly..

    advance auto ordering on line is pretty good... If the part is bad / wrong you return to store.. no need to ship back..

    NAPA is good but like you say not much in stock... that seams to be whats going on .. one warehouse to supply all the stores so less on the shelves to reduce inventory costs..
  9. WorthFlorida

    WorthFlorida Member 1 Year 100 Posts

    U joints are what I call "hard parts". They fall in line with rotors, brake caliper's, bearings, tie rod ends, etc. Pretty much everything from the top of the tire and down; and the national parts stores is where I steer clear of for these parts. I find that local auto stores usually own by a family for decades always seems to have the better parts (from my experience). In South Florida, Congress Auto Parts and Bennett Auto Parts are where I'll buy these parts. I was at a auto dealer and it turns out that as a back up for a part that cannot wait for days to be delivered, Congress Auto was their secondary source. These locally own stores usually care about quality at a decent price since they want to stay in business and they're more likely to stock parts like MOOG and other national well know parts manufactures.

    If you know of a local repair shop that has been in business for quite sometime, they'll usually know what to stay clear of and the best parts to use. They do want returning customers but not for the same problem. I'd stop by a shop and ask.

    I do buy parts at Advance and Autozone and most of the parts are good, starter motors, pumps, wiper blades, oil & filters, etc. and for the junker that your not going to hold on for too long. I do like Autozone batteries and I use these two stores to get all of my care care products.
  10. billnorman

    billnorman Rockstar 100 Posts

    Here's my free guess. Look at the new joints to see whether you need inside or outside snap ring pyers. If the old joints are factory you will need a torch to heat the plastic retainers to melt them to get them out. Do not pound on the yokes, use a press or vise to press them out. Clean and sandpaper the inside of the old yokes to get all the junk out of them the new joints will slide right in.
    You have no guarantee of where the parts are made by where you buy them.

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