part 2: the "real" Big Build Thread

Discussion in 'Audio, Video & Gadget Tech' started by zigger215, Nov 4, 2011.

  1. zigger215

    zigger215 Member 2 Years 500 Posts

    Stage 2 of this lengthy thread…
    auto start parts.jpg

    The auto start. I chose to install the new viper 5904 auto start and security system with the HD screen. I have not added the smart start mod but I will in the near future. First of all I suggest setting the unit up on a table or tool box, secure it and prewire the entire system based on wire location and install style. Tape everything it will help it blend with the factory harnesses. Above all else, take your time! Do not rush, I have been doing these systems for 8 years and it still takes me two hours to do an auto start and security system on silverados (one of the easiest vehicles on the planet to do) looks are second only to functionality. The unit looks pretty messy in these pictures but it looks great under the dash, in fact, you cant even find it or the wiring if you looked. This is the one mile two way version and here is a list of wires I had to access for this unit.

    GM Data wire- purple (located at the OBD 2)

    Power- red wires at the ignition harness, I tape just below that where the wire length is abundant and makes it easier.

    Ignition-there are two of them White and Pink, located in the same spot as power

    Accessory- there are two of them, Brown and Orange, located with ignition

    Starter- Yellow, located with Ignition harness. I do NOT use the starter kill system. It is too cold up here in Alaska and we run of the risk of electrical malfunctions and I want my truck to have the ability to start at ALL times even with the failure of the auto start system.

    Brake wire-light blue, located in the harness next to the OBD 2 plug, you will find that you will end up routing your antenna, data wire and brake wire along this harness.

    This is the wiring you will need if you end up using the module from xpress kits called DPKLGM

    auto start parts 2.jpg auto start 3.jpg auto start 2.jpg auto start 1.jpg auto start remote.jpg auto start wiring.jpg

    Stage 3...LED/HID conversion.

    So here it is, the biggest problem with LED conversion is the are often not plug and play and the light imaging is often a very narrow angle.

    The LEDs I used are from vision X and offer 120 degree angle for maximum lighting. They are the best LEDs I can find right now and considering my long standing relationship with Vision… I didn’t look too hard for better ones.

    Here is how my conversion has turned out so far, I still havent finished, I ran out of rivet LEDs and when they get here I will finish the doors and park light switch.

    truck 2.jpg HID 1.jpg steering 3.jpg steering 2.jpg steering 1.jpg steering 5.jpg LED parts 3.jpg cluster 1.jpg climate control.jpg truck 1.jpg
    Thanks for reading this thread and PM me with ANY question, suggestions or general comments!! Always anxious to hear other ideas or bounce ideas off fellow enthusiasts.
  2. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    As I just finished a similar (albeit lower wattage) project that entailed complete interior removal, as well, I'm ready for the detailed work, too (i.e. my stage three). Can you get a little more specific on the LED work? My quesitons include:

    How bad is airbag removal and steering wheel disassembly? Can you describe that a bit (tips/tricks)? How many LEDs/modules of what type (model numbers please?) for the steering wheel do you recommend?

    The HVAC controls are easy enough to get at but looking at the module it wasn't immediately apparent how to do a light replacement. As you know the stock lights look dim/dirty white just like the steering wheel controls. I like your upgrade enough that I'd like to emulate it and am curious as to details for light replacement on the HVAC controls. Module disassembly tips? Quantity and model number of LED's to get for this (HVAC control light) replacement? Soldering required? Photo of the solder points, if so?

    That brings me to gauges. Your cluster looks slick. I know how to remove the cluster but I'm not sure how to open it up to get at the lights/needles. Tips/tricks? Quantity and model number of LED's to get for this (gauge cluster light) replacement? Photo of the solder points? It looks like you're using a custom gauge overlay -- mind sharing what it is and where it was obtained so that I might go shopping to see if they offer one that suits my own taste?

    Presumably you've done LED conversions on your door courtesy lights and your dome and map lights, too. If so can you shed some light (pun intended) on what LED model numbers you chose for each of those, as well?

    You had to crack open the various parts, figure out what was needed, order it all, wait for it, then do the work. I'm hoping to order, wait for arrival, then crack open the parts and do the work ... as that'll save me downtime on my daily driver. This is why I'm asking for LED counts and model numbers for each of the various replacement projects (steering wheel, HVAC, and gauge cluster). I'm sure soldering is required for some of this. I solder well enough (and solder/heatshrink all of my wiring connections) but I've never DEsoldered on a circuit board. I figure it can't be terribly difficult with the right tools (desoldering braid? heat sink tool for use?). If you have recommendations on desoldering tools let me know?


    P.S. Thanks for posting and offering to assist. I did my sound proofing, wiring upgrade, headunit/amp/speaker/ install, and alarm install largely in the dark (with occasional assistance from you, thanks for that, too!). It's nice to know there's someone to ask about things of this nature.
  3. zigger215

    zigger215 Member 2 Years 500 Posts

    Here is the parts list
    On the climate control I used 19 individual rivet lights. They already come wth a built in resistor for easy install. This is the part number HIL-SWL. They come in packs of four so you only need five packs for those. As fat as how I installed them...trial and error. Just keep fitting them where you think they should go and then test. I had a 14v drill battery I had set up on the bench so I could do continual testing. I did NOT solder to that circuit board, 19 little power and grounds is a lot! So what I did was soldered the LEDs together in series then drilled a tiny holy in the back of the climate control and ran a single run of power and ground out to my dimmer switch

    As for the lighting on the steerig wheel. This was very tricky and took me five hours. You only need one LED per button. So 8 total for the top buttons and four total for the bottom. I once again drilled a small hole in the back of each button mod and ran the wires out to the brown and black wires on the harness plugged into the buttons. Brown is power and black is ground. These are can-bus so don't cut them. They are doing more then lighting. You can easily just cut the existing lights right off the circuit board. For the lower buttons you noticed how I pushed the rivets into the existing holes? This works great just have to drill out the circuit board slightly smaller then the rivet LEDs then press them in. Be careful because on each side of that hole there are tracers. Don't drill through them.

    As far as removing the steering column air bag, it's the easiest part of the entire task. There are two pin holes on either side of the steering wheel, take an Allen wrench and slide it into the hole and push, it will free a pin that will free that side of the air bag, do the same thing to the other side and the air bag will just pop out next just disconnect it and put it somewhere safe. It as easy as that, no tricks and concerns there.

    Lighting for your rear dome light will be a HIL-D6W
    For your maps and doors it will be a HIL-194W. You need four of these but they come in packs of two so your set with buying two packs. LEDs are polarity sensitive so if you plug them in and they don't work, don't panic, swap the connection. You will notice that the resistor on the rivet LED is on the ground side. This is because DC current travels from negative to positive thus resisting the voltage before it gets to the LED. These LEDs are all dimable

    As for the cluster, eBay my friend :). You can get all kinds of new gauge faces and even have them custom built.

    ---------- Post added at 12:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:01 PM ----------

    PS all those parts are from a company called vision x
  4. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    Yikes -- the teardown and light/LED work I am ok with but the drilling and fab work might just cause me to leave it as-is.
  5. zigger215

    zigger215 Member 2 Years 500 Posts

    Tear down isn't so bad, common sense + confidence + steady hand = success!
  6. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    Common sense + Confidence are both there. Steady hands -- not so much. Now if I have precise measurements to work with in advance of the work that's one thing ...but free-form is not my strong suit.
  7. zigger215

    zigger215 Member 2 Years 500 Posts

    I can understand that. When I started my steering wheel conversion I had two big coffees and nothing to eat. My hands were so shaky I started getting pretty frustrated. I ended up going to get food haha.
  8. zigger215

    zigger215 Member 2 Years 500 Posts

    Bump to the top, lots of lighting questions going on. I will upgrade this thread with more detailed info in a day or two
  9. zigger215

    zigger215 Member 2 Years 500 Posts

    Well, HIDs suck...just sayin. I went back to stock today! If I do it again it will be a retrofit install, more money but I will gain actually light output.
  10. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    Agreed. HIDs slapped into a halogen assembly of any type (i.e. OEM or aftermarket halogen projector) do, indeed, suck.

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