Passenger rear door won't lock, at all, on 2004 Silverado crew cab

Discussion in 'General Chevy & GM Tech Questions' started by m0j0TX, Mar 10, 2013.

  1. m0j0TX

    m0j0TX Member

    I have a 2004 Silverado Z71 crew cab, and also a young son. We have always had the "safety" lock on the back doors so that they cannot be opened from the inside. This weekend we were going somewhere without the boy, and an adult was riding in the back seat, and it was a pain to have to keep opening the door for them. I turned off the "safety" lock so that one door could be opened from the inside, but then noticed that the door would no longer lock....AT ALL.

    The other doors lock/unlock just fine with both the remote fob and manually hitting the power lock button or sliding the manual lock back and forth. This one door seems to be "stuck" unlocked. I cannot even lock it manually, since it refuses to move. Since I can't lock it manually, I don't THINK it's an electrical issue, but then again I'm certainly no expert.

    Any ideas on what the problem is? I'd prefer to fix it myself if it's something easy, but if it's involved I will have to take it in somewhere tomorrow because I don't want to leave my truck sitting around with one door essentially unlocked all the time. We have had issues at my work with cars being broken into. I don't want someone ransacking my truck, even if the alarm does go off when the unlocked door is opened.

    Any tips would be appreciated! Thanks!
     
  2. sstoner911

    sstoner911 Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    You wont really know what the issue is until you pop the door panel off. The lock is an electrical part but there is a metal rod that runs from the locking mech to the door handle. Sounds like that works fine. The other part of the locking mech moves the small rod that has the plastic trim cap that you push up and down to lock the door. Sounds like your saying that doesnt move?

    You can look to see if any thing has come off, but If its like mine, you will be replacing the locking mech. Its easy to do, the part is around $100.00.

    But, I would open it up and look to see if its anything simple.
     
  3. m0j0TX

    m0j0TX Member

    I took the rear interior panel off, after I finally figured out what I was missing. (I didn't immediately spot the screw under the arm rest.)

    The rod looks okay, so I think you're right, I think it's the locking mechanism.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Thanks a buch, any tips on how to remove the locking mechnism? I see some largish Torx bolts around the door latch. Do I just remove those?

    I'm not a mechanical idiot, but I haven't had to make this particular repair before, and I don't want to waste a lot of time on trial and error or break something else in the process.

    Given that it's Sunday and I can't get a part until tomorrow anyway, I'm trying to plan ahead so I can fix it as soon as possible in the morning.

    Also, would you recommend replacing that rubbery plastic sheet behind the door panel? Or just glue it back down somehow?
     
  4. sstoner911

    sstoner911 Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    Yup, just remove the torx bolt(s). I dont remember if I had the plastic on mine - probably did - I didnt replace it.
     
  5. m0j0TX

    m0j0TX Member

    Looks like I'll be buying some larger Torx drivers tomorrow. The ones I have don't appear to be large enough. Thanks for the help!

    - - - Updated - - -

    It's all fixed and works great. GM Part number was 15110650 for left rear door latch. I think I paid about $178 for mine from a dealership. You can get them cheaper online, but I wanted to get this fixed ASAP since my truck has been sitting in the driveway with an unlocked door. The problem was definitely the actuator/latch seizing up.

    Steps for replacing it are:

    1. Remove the cover from around the interior door handle using a small common screw driver, and also pry out the manual lock lever with a small common screw driver. They should pop right out.
    2. Remove two screws holding panel to the door, using a 7mm socket. One is under the door handle, one is on the bottom of the door towards the front.
    3. Lift the door panel off the door, and unplug the power window control.
    4. Peel back the plastic water guard from around the latch. I only peeled it back far enough to work.
    5. There are two electrical connectors for the power locks. Unplug them.
    6. Disconnect the door handle rod and locking rod. This was probably the toughest part for me, because they're held in place by plastic bushings and I have big hands and there isn't much room to work. I managed to get it done by using a pair of needle-nose pliers for the locking rod and levering out the door handle rod with a small screwdriver.
    7. Remove the three bolts holding the latch assembly using a T30 Torx driver.
    8. Assembly is just the reverse of all of the above. The rubber water guard I just pushed back into place, and the adhesive was still tacky enough to hold it in place. It's not perfect, but I think it will work fine.

    Attached is a photo of the new part on the left and old part on the right.

    It was actually a pretty quick and easy repair.
     

    Attached Files:

  6. DIGS16

    DIGS16 Rockstar 100 Posts

    this post will probably help me with the issue of the driver side rear door not being able to be open from the inside lol good post
     

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