Peeling Paint ~ Recall on Chevy Suburban Tahoe Silverado Trucks & SUVs

Discussion in 'Chevy Suburban Forum (GMC Yukon XL)' started by 94Suburban, Oct 30, 2008.

  1. Psyc0

    Psyc0 Rockstar 100 Posts

    Our '04 Suburban was peeling off the top coat (Summit White paint WA8624 code 50), on the roof, hood, and pretty much, the entire left side, exposing the primer.
    I cannot blame GM or the paint, as I'm located in SW Florida, and the truck has sat outside in the Florida sun for nearly 10 years.
    It's generally backed into the driveway, which places the left side at a western exposure of the sun....can You say intense?
    I was told by the selling dealer in Oct 2004, that GM Full Size trucks (back then) were top coated with Imron Polyurethane, which holds it's gloss forever.
    The Suburban was re-painted and prettied up during this past July, and along with all new exterior lighting fixtures/lenses, she's looking superb once again.
    I'd love a new Tahoe L/T 4X4, but I currently own 3 GM vehicles, and use only 2 of them, though not very much.
    Should I suddenly become engorged with lottery wealth, then I'd prolly go for a pair of new 2014 LTZ's, Suburban & Tahoe 4X4's.
     
  2. Conlan Rose

    Conlan Rose Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    My 96 Summit White Tahoe whas paint peeling off the hood, fenders and parts of the body. GM used a cheaper painting method on the white trucks which caused the paint to flake off over time. It is made worse by sunlight or having a bug guard.
     
  3. unsub

    unsub Member 1 Year

    You will not find a single car manufacturer that will fully honor a paint recall. They will sand and paint over which does nothing to fix the real issue as both the primer and paint were the issues for many auto manufactures. To do the job properly the body would need to be fully refinished.

    On the first and second gen Burbs many have rust issues at the rear of the running board area on both sides, along with interior rusting at bottom of all doors. I just fixed and painted 2001 along with installing new running boards. Almost every Burb with a good 100k that hasn't been repainted will have rust in these areas but no more prematurely than other models. My 08 HHR SS has about 50% of the rust my 01 Burb has on the inside bottom of doors and the HHR only has 67k where as the burb has 140 now. I've also had an Eagle Talon and a Ford Escort that had the same premature rusting. Auto companies are trying to do everything cheaper, although that trend is changing for some Chevy being one of them.

    As for paint quality I do know GM has recently upped the quality of their paints being I worked for a manufacturer who manufactures and paints some of their body parts. One of their main requirements for them to get the GM contract was to have a specialized multi million dollar paint booth that allowed the use and application of better quality paints. This is recently, maybe 2011.

    Find yourself a small private body shop and get her fixed. Many of the smaller shops, I found my guy on craiglist, charge lower rates and do just as good of job. Same goes for mechanics although good mechanics tend to be harder to find than good body guys.
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2013
  4. Ugh, that's so crappy.
     
  5. Conlan Rose

    Conlan Rose Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    What's crappier the repainting of my truck by a professional shop is estimated at 1,800 just for the front end. To be honest the shop did explain every thing they would have to do step by step and showed the cost of each. At a pro shop they like to remove each body part to paint so they can guarantee quality and coverage.
     
  6. unsub

    unsub Member 1 Year

    I just got my rust issues dealt with at running board area and inside bottom of all doors a few weeks ago. While I was getting help with my new billet grille install today from my body guy I got an estimate of 3k to paint my entire 2001 Burb including new bumper inserts to delete the chrome for black, minimum of 1k in materials alone. And this estimate does not include the price of the new hood I'm buying. And this is an estimate from a small private shop from a person I know which has lower than typical rates. I got an estimate from a large chain body shop this morning and the local chevy dealer about 45 minutes ago and they were both around 5-6k. Body itself is clean, just some hail dents and scratches, normal fade, wear and tear for a 100+ mile burb.

    For the price of a dealer paint job a person could get a new 400HP crate installed, a tranny rebuild and a lift kit and still have cash to play with, it ain't cheap. I imagine for us the size of the burbs and hoes we drive is obviously a big reason for the extra costs but for the most part it's the prep work that adds it up.
     
  7. Ben98

    Ben98 New Member

    My 1988 c3500 truck is also losing paint at a rapid rate. Due to the age of the truck, what I paid for it ($1500), and the fact that I mostly use it for work I will probably just sand it down and rattle can paint it if it gets bad enough. It will be less about looking great and more about protecting the metal economically so it doesn't rust out. I just don't have multiple thousands of dollars to pour into nice paint.
     
  8. xPosTech

    xPosTech Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    I didn't read the old thread but can't you get a decent paint job at your local high school? No it won't be perfect but you probably will only pay for the materials and possibly a small donation to the Glee Club. And it will look lots better than a rattle-can job.

    Ted
     
    Beachbourbon likes this.
  9. Ben98

    Ben98 New Member

    I work for our local school district, and while one of the high schools has an auto shop, they don't do paint work there. Some body work, but they aren't set up for paint. I do know a guy who does paint work and I might see if he would cut me a little bit of a break if I do the prep work. If that doesn't work out I might check neighboring districts and see if their high schools do paint work. I know that it would be good experience for the kids, and it would look better than a rattle cab job. Hell, if nothing else works out even a Maaco paint job would still look better than rattle cans for $400-500.
     
    xPosTech and kennythewelder like this.
  10. xPosTech

    xPosTech Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    We had a great Industrial Arts Department at the high school I went to. Power Mechanics, wood shop, metal shop, etc. Whenever we stripped a car to paint we used a fish oil base primer. It stank to high heaven but was the best primer available in the early sixties. It was a dull red so it probably had lead in it, too.

    Home economics was above us and back then there was no air-conditioning in the classrooms. One outside wall of the shop contained all the engine stands for the engines we were rebuilding. We got a kick bypassing the mufflers before the eight or so exhausts dumped out the windows. Not as rustic as dipping pigtails in the ink but just as disruptive.

    Ted
     

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