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Problem with 97 Suburban 5,7L. distibutor rotor hitting the dist cap!

Discussion in 'Chevy Suburban Forum (GMC Yukon XL)' started by Telford, Jan 1, 2012.

  1. Telford

    Telford New Member

    I have an issue with the rotor hitting the distributor cap. Well I have more issues as well. Motor starts and it sounds like a train wreck on the left side. Replaced camshaft and crankshaft sensors. When I took off the distributor cap it was worn. The rotor top was shredded. I replaced the cap and rotor. When I started it has the same issues plus it is shredding the new rotor. Everything it secure under the cap. Code reader is P1345 and its telling me the crankshaft and camshaft sensor is not talking right.

    Suggestions please.
  2. Telford

    Telford New Member

    I pulled the distrubutor and the bushing was gone causing the rotor to rise and hit the cap. Put in the new one and it still misses badly.

    I'm going to set the #1 cylinder at TDC, align the distributor, turn oil pump to optimum position and re install. Any other suggestions?
  3. janikphoto

    janikphoto New Member

    Sorry, but I've never had to mess with it. My suggestion would be a brand new, high performance, turn-key crate motor... but, that's probably not a very logical suggestion.
  4. bigblacktruck

    bigblacktruck New Member

    Had same problem with missing, kept getting intermittent code for miss on #4. Turned out had a bad head gasket. Removed heads & had redone, replaced gaskets with new Felpro & has been 7 or 8 months without repeat of missing problem. Be careful with the intake manifold gasket- was unable to put the engine back together due to medical problems- mechanic failed to tighten the intake manifold bolts to proper torque (were only hand tight)- was having problem with mysterious coolant loss, checked cooling system pressure, changed cap, etc- wouldn't resolve issue & then in mid-Dec had intake gasket blow out, putting over 2 gal of coolant into oil. Cleaned everything up, bought new Felpro intake gasket set (this one has metal gasket with beefier rubber than previous Felpro), put everything back together & seems to have solved problems.

    It is very easy to be off by one tooth on the distributor, even if you have not done any engine rotation following distributor removal, make sure you follow the method 2 steps in the shop manual when re-installing. I had marked the distributor body to engine, rotor to distributor positions & after several tries with the 'quick' replacement, finally gave up & went through the full blown re-install procedure. If you haven't done so already, I would replace the distributor with a new one. Noticed some play in mine & have a new one on order (97 GMC K1500 has 135,000 mis on engine)- you can do much better price wise looking on ebay.
  5. murdog94

    murdog94 New Member 1000 Posts

    I agree with replacing the whole unit since there is no telling what damage could have been done (it only takes a tiny amount of mess up in the shaft)
    Next you have to have a GM Tech2 scanner (or equivalant) to actually time the motor properly. What i have done with the ones that i have needed replaced is replaced the distributor, and taken it to a local shop to be timed (usually done for less than $100) which was nice insurance knowing it was right. Also did you replace the cap and rotor when you did change it? because the rotor and cap and rather fragil and break easly without showing any signs of damage.
  6. Telford

    Telford New Member

    Thanks for the posts. I replaced the old cap and rotor, I purchased a new distributor. When I replaced the distributor I ended up with the same banging crashing sound on the left side of the motor and it will not stay running. Today I will check compression on all cylinders. Then I will reset my distributor as I may be one tooth off.

    ---------- Post added at 08:28 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:28 AM ----------

    Im starting to lean that way. Thanks
  7. nadcicle

    nadcicle New Member

    Take it how you will, but the way I timed my 97 suburban was a two man job.

    Just take out number 1 spark plug and put your finger in the hole and have a buddy turn the engine with a socket on main crank bolt until you feel it push out all the air and start sucking back in. Right in between the push and pull of air is considered TDC. Of course you just line up the rotor pin correctly to the right cylinder and the computer should set the rest of the timing after initial startup. It's ok to be off a few degrees in this case usually.
  8. Telford

    Telford New Member

    Well I replaced my 5.7L with a crate motor. Broke down the old one and found a broken piston on the left side. I now have a few small issues with hesitation at acceleration AFTER the burb warms up. Any suggestions?

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