Problems removing brake rotors on truck-K2500

Discussion in 'Lifted & Offroad Suspension' started by wheeler459, Jun 2, 2011.

  1. wheeler459

    wheeler459 New Member

    Hi all,

    I hope there is someone who can help me. I am having a devil of a time getting the front rotors off the front of my 1996 K2500 5.7 truck. I got the calipers off which was a bi$#%.

    I sprayed PB blaster on the studs and around the back side of the rotor where it touches the hub. I got the spindle nut off with the 36mm socket. By the looks of the backside of the rotor, its onto the hub pretty good with a fair amount of corrosion. Am I:

    a.) missing a step in the rotor removal process or
    b.) not knowing what the tricks are to doing this

    I have read about people taking sawzalls and cutting the brakes off like pizza wedges but is there something else. Please help!
  2. 98Hotrod98

    98Hotrod98 Rockstar 100 Posts

  3. dsfloyd

    dsfloyd Epic Member 5+ Years ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    If you have a dead blow hammer you can hit the rotor with that to try and knock it loose. or look on the front of the rotor near the lugs. If there is a threaded hole (or two) you need to find a bolt that will fit in there. this is put in some rotors to help with removal. you thread the bolt in with a socket and alternate holes to push the rotor off. Not sure if it will be on your rotor or not but that is one method. After that you may be able to heat it where it sits on the hub and eventually work it off with a dead blow hammer or the bolt method.
    1 person likes this.
  4. Crawdaddy

    Crawdaddy All hail the Mad King!! Staff Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts Platinum Contributor

    The rotor shouldn't be that hard to take off. Assuming you took the center spindle nut off, the rotor should virtually fall off. A hammer can help, but I don't think it should be neccesary.
  5. 98Hotrod98

    98Hotrod98 Rockstar 100 Posts

    You may try this trick. i've never seen it done, but it looks workable.

  6. dedmon27

    dedmon27 Rockstar 100 Posts

    You shouldn't have to remove your spindle nut as long as it is 4wd. I believe all 2500 and 1500 newer chevys use hat style rotors. If you are replacing the rotors get a big ball peen hammer and hit the corner of the rotor near the studs all the way around. Be sure not to hit the studs. Good Luck.
  7. Chesters

    Chesters Well-Known Member 2 Years ROTM Winner Gold Member 1000 Posts

    Crawdaddy, and having the same problem with my K2500, I was going to have the rotors turned, then install new calipers and pads. But I tried getting the rotors off and could not get it done. Put new calipers and pads on called it good good. But still having brake problems, replaced one hose no problem, need to replace other hose.

    Problem number one, brake pedal to the floor, Pump brake pedal get driver side front lock up.
    Problem number two, apply emergency brake to floor nothing.

    Problem number three, virtually no breaks.

    Problem number four, where to start.

    Thanks for any help!
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2014
  8. RayVoy

    RayVoy Epic Member 5+ Years 5000 Posts

    Chester, you probably have air in the system. Bleed them, starting with the right rear, then left rear, right front and finish with left front.
  9. Chesters

    Chesters Well-Known Member 2 Years ROTM Winner Gold Member 1000 Posts

    Yes Ray that might be a possibility, I have tried by myself and seems fruitless , I am going to pick up a vacume pump today. But this should not affect the e brake should it?

    Last edited: Nov 29, 2014
  10. RayVoy

    RayVoy Epic Member 5+ Years 5000 Posts

    Yeah, trying to bleed by yourself is impossible, unless you have a vac/pump.

    What do you have for rear brakes, drums, or rotors?

    Did the parking brakes work before the brake work?

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