Radiator Air Release valve

Discussion in 'Chevy Silverado Forum (GMC Sierra)' started by Bowtied, Apr 6, 2013.

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  1. Bowtied

    Bowtied Member 100 Posts

    04 silverado 5.3L

    Hi guys, im about to do a radiator drain/fill and im curious, is there an air/pressure release valve of some sort that will allow me to easily remove any air from the coolant system after doing a drain/fill?

    Or am I being overly cautious about this, and these particular radiators are very simplistic in design and fool-proof to drain/fill (rarely the case)

    thx

    Also any tips for getting air out of the system is greatly appreciated.

    Edit2: does anyone know if when replacing old anti-freeze if a "flush" with flush fluid is suggested in addition to simply draining old fluid and replacing with new?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Here is what I believe to be the radiator drain valve. I watched a prestone radiator "flush" video that appeared to use a gasoline GM truck for the instructional vehicle.

    The shot is super zoomed in, does anyone know its general where-abouts in the engine bay or whether this is actually a picture from a GM Truck, the video said some vehicles may not have one and it switched to this picture, which may or may not be from the truck they were demonstrating on.

    Radiator_Drain_Valve.jpg
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2013
  2. redvett

    redvett New Member

    Non on my trucki just flush the system and refill with Dexcool and go on my way. Never had to remove any air.
  3. j cat

    j cat Active Member 1000 Posts 100 Posts

    my 2000 SIL has a rad drain plug. your 2004 I believe does not. most remove the lower rad hose to drain. you will need a big pan. the block has 2 drain plugs used for the block heater if equipped. I have had no success in removing these plugs I believe GM used a locking material on them or they are corroded on.

    flushing is an approved method with the proper equipment and the use of distilled water and the proper concentration of dexcool . the machine should be set up to only run dexcool not any brand whenever , this is where problems can be created if the two different coolants get mixed. If its not GM approved dexcool then it is not dexcool and should not be used. compatibles are not dexcool.

    I have used dexcool since 1995 and have had no issues using 65% dexcool to the 35% distilled water and no corrosion or leaks.

    if you drain rad you will get out with the heatercore blownout about 2 gallons of coolant fluid.

    on re-fill the procedure is , start cold engine with the system filled as much as you can with the pressure coolant cap off the plastic bottle. idle until the engine is at the operating temp and rev engine a few times to 2ooo RPM. then add to the full hot mark and the air should be removed from the system.

    if the heater does not produce heat this is what most find if they do not use this method.
  4. Bowtied

    Bowtied Member 100 Posts

    i dont understand, i just bought a new thermostat to repair the thermostat issue im having...and i bought prestone radiator fluid to replace what was inside per your reccomendation due to the corrosive issues with leaving old fluid in for too long.

    Should I take it back and buy dexcool

    i bought the jug on the right, i didnt see the one on the left at the store i went to but it says GM Approved on the bottle.
    radfluid.JPG
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2013
  5. j cat

    j cat Active Member 1000 Posts 100 Posts

    the silver container is dexcool. the yellow container is the new extended life coolant now being sold , which as it is written does not say dexcool. the new type coolant is for vehicles that have had non dexcool coolant in the system. mixing of this with dexcool will cause problems since it is not the proper GM coolant for your vehicle.

    this is why I mentioned the GM approved dexcool means its dexcool !

    the extended life coolant I have in my boat engine which is of a 1977 vintage . the coolant is much better than that old green coolant of the past. controls corrosion much better. the boat engine has no ALUM in it just steel .
  6. Conlan Rose

    Conlan Rose Super Moderator 1000 Posts 100 Posts

    Dex-Cool + other antifreeze = acid. Dex doesn't react well with other products so only use the right stuff go to walmart or kmart they usually have it and the distilled water.
  7. TRPLXL2

    TRPLXL2 New Member Platinum Contributor 1000 Posts 100 Posts

    I always use J cat's method, they also call it "burping" the radiator.

    I never believed the whole dexcool myth, UNTIL my 01 S10. I had always mixed prestone with the dexcool, and never thought nothing about it. When we had to replace my radiator hoses, I went ahead and pulled the radiator to flush it out of the vehicle. It was full of an oatmeal type substance, this is what happens when you mix.

    Everything now I stay with Dexcool.
  8. Bowtied

    Bowtied Member 100 Posts


    Jcat do you have a link to your method im very worried about getting air in the line hence "burping"
  9. j cat

    j cat Active Member 1000 Posts 100 Posts

    there is no link . this is my method that I found because this vehicle has no bleed screw for the coolant system . like I stated before with air in this engines coolant system the heater will not produce heat.......

    also the engine temp can wander .
  10. Bowtied

    Bowtied Member 100 Posts

    ok thanks, i know of the wandering temps (and its what im most afraid of) but knowing that the engine wont produce heat with air in the cooling system is a huge tip.

    i just exchanged the fluid i had for dex-cool im about to start the process i have one other question, i printed out the chilton repair process for the thermostat replacement and it shows what i "think' is the thermos. housing not the thermostat itself, im unsure if i am to remove this and the thermostat is inside or whether i bought the wrong part, any speculation is appreciated.

    04.silv.chilton.thermostat.jpg

    04.silv.duralast.thermostat.jpg

    04.silv.low.rad.hose.jpg

    also the above pic is what i believe the lower rad. hose to be, is this correct?

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