Raditor R/R the leaks got worse

Discussion in 'Chevy Suburban Forum (GMC Yukon XL)' started by collinsperformance, Jun 11, 2007.

  1. collinsperformance

    collinsperformance Epic Member 5+ Years 500 Posts

    Well one week after we got Brutis i started to smell anti freeze after i turn him off. it started to get worse and recently it got to the point where i was losing a little a week and somedays it would spit into the overflow after shutting down. well it was time to do the job correctly. follow along as i break it down to 4 pictures per post. I called around and went to get the best price on the raditor i found online 1800 raditors had the best deal so i ordered a raditor for a 454 (mine is a 350 but i wanted the bigger capasity) with a oil and auto tranny cooler built in. I got the new one for $226 and they would have delevered it for free, but i drove down and picked it up along with the other needed parts. Ok here we are at the start. here is the raditor all covered up in its home.
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    here is looking at it from the drivers side.
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    this was the leak i saw (I thought it was the only one).
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    ok time to start the job. wait till the motor and block are cool-hot water burns and can do bad things. the fan shroud is 2 pieces. they split at the middle. i started by removing the top 3 -10mm bolts.
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  2. collinsperformance

    collinsperformance Epic Member 5+ Years 500 Posts

    there should be 2 more 10 mm bolts on the pass side of the shroud 1/2 down i had one 10mm and a 1/2 bolt since the shroud was broken.
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    there should be 2 more 10mm on the drivers side. the shroud was broken here too so i only had one and an empty hole.
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    i then removed the top half and set aside. this is when i found out how bad my little leak was.this is the drivers side and you can see the trails from the coolent leaks.
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    here is the drivers side and its leaks. i did not know it was this bad.
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  3. collinsperformance

    collinsperformance Epic Member 5+ Years 500 Posts

    it is best to replace all hoses and thermastat when doing the raditor. here is the over flow (i did not replace it it was new) and the heater return 5/8' I replaced it they are held in by hose clamps.
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    now it is time to remove the uper and lower raditor hoses just one hose clamp each end and place the old ones aside. now it is time to undo the cooler lines. you might get lucky with open end wrenches but i got get these hose or flare wrench set. it almost never fails and they are fairly cheap $10 a set.
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    here are the oil cooler lines. you might want to place a catch bucket under the carbut there should not be mutch oil left in here as it drains back into the pan when the motor is turned off.these were the 3/4 flare wrench
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    now the tranny cooler lines have to come out. these are the 1/2 flare wrench. you might want to place the catch bucket under it but it to drains back into the pan with the motor off.
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  4. collinsperformance

    collinsperformance Epic Member 5+ Years 500 Posts

    now double check all connections to verify they are disconnected and out of the way. now you can just lift out the old raditor. you will want to clean the mount and the front end. if you wash it out cover the tranny and oil lines with a plastic bag to keep water out.
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    to make life alittle easire i removed the lower skid plate this is easy 2 10mmbolts at the cross member and 2 15mm bolts at the frame. out she comes.
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    i removed the 2 10mm bolts on the lower shroud to remove and clean it
    i put al the parts into a pile to clean as i put them back together.
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    here is the old raditor out on the front lawn.
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  5. collinsperformance

    collinsperformance Epic Member 5+ Years 500 Posts

    ok-i wanted to swap out the thermastat as well that way all is new. there is a 14 mm nut that holds on a ground wire and then the 14mm stud and 14mm bolt come out and the housing is removed. i always had great luck with the 160 degree thermastat but use what you want 192 is stock and a 170 is good but i like the 160 on all my stuff. here is the new gasket and thermastat. NAPA number 70
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    clean off any old gasket off the intake manifold. this year had an o-ring and a flat gasket.
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    here is the new gasket and thermastat.
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    the thermastat always goes with the point to the raditor side of the motor.
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  6. collinsperformance

    collinsperformance Epic Member 5+ Years 500 Posts

    here is reinstalled.
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    now onto the new raditor
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    this looks so good in the box.
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    this is the oil cooler side of the raditor.
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  7. collinsperformance

    collinsperformance Epic Member 5+ Years 500 Posts

    here is a closer view of the oil cooler port.
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    here is the tranny cooler side of the raditor
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    here is a closer view of the tranny cooler port.
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    ok-time to reinstall. i cleaned all the parts and wire wheeled the bolts for a clean reinstall. i then installed the raditor making sure it was sitting in the lower rubber mounts. then it is time to reconnect the lines. here are the tranny cooler lines reconnected.
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  8. collinsperformance

    collinsperformance Epic Member 5+ Years 500 Posts

    next i reconnected the oil cooler lines.
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    after i connected the cooler lines and lower raditor hose i reinstalled the lower shroud half with the 2 10mm bolts. and the front skid plate 2-10mm bolts at the cross member and the 2 15mm bolts at the frame. i then installed the new 5/8 heater hose return line and the over flow line to the puke tank.
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    here is pictur of the lower hose there were 10 listed in the book at NAPA.this one is part number 8400 and was a direct replacement.
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    now it was time to put the top half back in.
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  9. collinsperformance

    collinsperformance Epic Member 5+ Years 500 Posts

    i rechecked all the lines and connections and filled the raditor with new antifreeze/water mix and started Brutis up looking for leaks. after a few min i checked the water level and tranny fluid level. i then shut down and waited 10 min and checked the oil level. here is the all done pics.
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    the top hose was new as well and i going to make a mount to get it off the shroud and alt the alt fan ate the last hose too. after taking him out for a drive i now run @ 140 on the guage with full ac running and it 90 degrees outside. with ac off he runs at 120 i got 3 MPG better on gas and he feels less sluggesh. it is so nice to turn off the truck and not smell anti freeze this was a simple job that was done in 2 hours in my driveway. i hope this helps someone that can not decide to do this or farm out the job.......mike
     
  10. ChevyFan

    ChevyFan The Sheriff Staff Member 5+ Years 5000 Posts

    Love the look of that new radiator. Let us know how well Brutis performs now! :great::great::great::great:
     

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