Rear Drum or Convert to Rear Disc??

Discussion in 'General Chevy & GM Tech Questions' started by Bowtie69, Sep 18, 2013.

  1. reggiecab2000

    reggiecab2000 Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    for starters i would say, stay with just slotted rotors...
    also as far as leveling kits, ive used spring spacers, strut spacers. and flat out replaced struts....
    ill tell you the best deal if you have the strut suspension system, because i recently convinced a friend on the same thing, is buy the rancho quick lift struts, its a complete replacement strut and spring assembly for a VERY good price. also it has 9 adjustable positions for shock sensitivity. my friend loves the ride... search around for the type of leveling kit you would like, but from my experience with all types of leveling kits (well never done torsion bars), the rancho strut is by far the best one

    CKNSLS Rockstar 100 Posts

    After towing a 5,500 pound travel trailer 8,000 miles in 8 months around this beautiful country of ours, someone needs to tell how these things don't stop well, because I traveled over every type of highway imaginable and had zero issues. I towed with a 2011-5.3 Crew Cab Silverado.

    Please enlighten me...please!

    On Edit-the truck was 100% stock.
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2013
  3. stchman

    stchman Active Member 2 Years 1000 Posts

    The OP won't get any benefit of changing rear drums to discs, except a lighter wallet.
  4. ChevyFan

    ChevyFan The Sheriff Staff Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    Need to move this to the tech area.
  5. MrShorty

    MrShorty Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    Moved to General Tech
  6. tbplus10

    tbplus10 Epic Member Staff Member 5+ Years 5000 Posts Platinum Contributor

    I used to have the opinion that to get a great set of rear brakes I had to have disc's.
    after years of spending money on swaps, including bigger wheels, different master cylinders, BVP's and a long list of other parts I realized my brakes were only getting marginally better on each vehicle.
    I had a discussion once with an engineer for a major brake parts mfgr, he volunteered a saturday afternoon to look at the truck I was building at the time (99 Tacoma long term project I still own) and showed me the mistakes I was making with the brake system.
    Whens the last time you flushed and changed brake fluid? Brake fluid should be changed about every 3 years for max effectiveness.
    What type shoes and pads are being used? An effective brake system is gonna see wear on rotors, drums, shoes, and pads, heat/friction is a product of stopping.
    How is the brake bias set-up? Most factory bias systems are ok for a moderately loaded truck but dont compensate as well when heavily loaded, why, compensation would compromise braking on an unloaded truck the way the system limits and design are, most trucks spend 80-90% of their time unloaded, the average pick up driver will never use his vehicle at or near its limits. Lets face it society has turned trucks into a family sedan with an open trunk.
    Big wheels and tires, larger wheels and tires, unsprung weight affects stopping power a lot, if your gonna go larger wheels and tires you really need to stuff all that newfound space with larger brakes.
    When towing braking becomes an issue mainly due to the fact so many drivers have no clue how to correctly balance their tow and set it up for the truck. Many drivers have a mistaken belief tongue load is the only worry.
    The truck and trailer must be flat when connected, but you also need to ensure the load is distributed evenly over the trailer.
    To much weight one side or the other from the balance point and you get nose up or down which changes brake bias instantly but this change isnt reacted to by the truck brake system as fast.

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