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Rear main seal

Discussion in 'General Chevy & GM Tech Questions' started by 1991 Suburban, Feb 8, 2011.

  1. 1991 Suburban

    1991 Suburban Rockstar 100 Posts

    Okay, here pretty soon, I have to change the rear main on my Dad's '95 K2500 big block Sub.

    I am definitely not looking forward to it. Sadly I don't have a lift, so I will have to do it all on my back.

    I know what this job entails, but would appreciate your input as to what may make this job a little bit easier.
  2. stephan

    stephan Rockstar 4 Years 5000 Posts

    A nice smooth concrete floor & a creeper, will go a long ways towards comfort, & a good floor jack & good jackstands. If it's an automatic tranny & you don't have a trans jack, take the plate off your floor jack & bolt about a 1 1/2 to 2' foot square piece of 3/4" plywood to it & it will make a good substitute for a trans jack. (use a tapered head bolt or use a stove bolt & counter sink the head)
  3. 1991 Suburban

    1991 Suburban Rockstar 100 Posts

    No concrete pad. Just the dirt driveway. I am going to have to lay down a couple of sheets of plywood so that I can at least use a tranny jack. Yeah, it's the 4L80E. Gonna be a good time...

    I am also hoping that I will be able to manipulate the tranny out past the stock exhaust. It's tight on the bottom, but considering I have to take the dust shield off anyways, I may be able to get it out. I hate messing with the exhaust. It ALWAYS ends up leaking.

    Thanks for the input Stephan
  4. Crawdaddy

    Crawdaddy Thread Killer Extraordinaire Staff Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts Platinum Contributor

    It's going to be a severe pain to pull the transmission with the engine still in the truck. I helped my uncle remove and install his 4L80E out of his 99 big block. You will need someone with VERY small hands to get to the top bellhousing bolts and even more to get the cooler lines pulled. You would actually have an easier time pulling the whole motor and transmission as an assembly, doing your work outside the truck, and then putting them back in. We pulled just the transmission the first time, the second, we pulled the engine and tranmission still bolted together. Seriously, I'm not exaggerating. That engine/transmission combo was definitely designed outside the vehicle, then crammed in.
  5. 1991 Suburban

    1991 Suburban Rockstar 100 Posts

    I have pulled my share of transmissions. Worked in a transmission shop for a few years. Yeah, I know what you mean about small hands, but I have no problem dropping the back of the engine a couple of inches. Most people don't like to do that, but flexibility is what rubber motor mounts were made for.

    I agree that pulling the engine would be a benefit (degreasing and painting), but I am in a dirt driveway. I have done a few engine swaps in the dirt, and it SUCKS! Can't move the cherry picker more than a few inches.

    Besides, I have to do my best to get this all completed in a day. Dad isn't much help when it comes to stuff like this. He is a 63 year old disabled Vietnam Vet. He is not a picture of health. Hell, he tripped the other day, and ended up separating a rib! Now, don't think I am talking down on my Dad. I love him to death, but this is just something he can't do anymore. So, unless I can talk one of my cousins into helping, I am solo on this one...

    Thanks for the tip, though.

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