Rear Seal

Discussion in 'Chevy Silverado Forum (GMC Sierra)' started by rileyjr16, Feb 25, 2012.

  1. rileyjr16

    rileyjr16 Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    Yesterday my Change Engine Oil Light came on, figured it was a bit early so I reset it. Pulled in my driveway and my check engine oil level light came on in the Message Center...barely any oil on the dipstick. I've had enough of this rear main seal crap and I want to change it. Anyone know the turnaround time on this and about how much it'll cost? I have an engine lift so I'll probably wind up doing it myself with my dad's expertise soon. It'll probably wait till after I go to McComb on Tuesday. Whats the turnaround time and cost? :grrrrrr::grrrrrr:
  2. Jimmeh

    Jimmeh Epic Member 5+ Years 500 Posts

    Well, the seal itself isn't very expensive, but it is extremely labor intensive. Just replaced one in my Ranger in September and it took my dad and I about 5 hours to drop the transmission, but only about 5 minutes to replace the seal. Another 5 hours, and it was all set back up.
  3. rileyjr16

    rileyjr16 Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    Think I can just drop the trans and replace it or do I need to pull the eninge out and do it?
  4. Jimmeh

    Jimmeh Epic Member 5+ Years 500 Posts

    I've never done it on a full size or a V8 before, but I know with the Ranger, I just removed the cross member and dropped the trans down. As many times as I've changed the oil on the truck, I honestly don't know how it's set up, lol. I would imagine you could just drop the trans, but again it's still going to be a pain because there is a LOT you have to disconnect/unbolt/swear and yell at. It's worth the savings in labor costs at a shop, but only slightly.
  5. rileyjr16

    rileyjr16 Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    Disconnecting stuff I can handle I know theres not really alot of room up there either. Just not exactly sure if its the rear main or the oil pan gasket is shot.
  6. Kapelusprime

    Kapelusprime Member

    I'd much rather drop the trans and attack it that way, then pull the motor with all that pluming and wiring. If it's a pan gasket you'll need to jack the motor and drop the pan.
  7. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator Staff Member 5+ Years ROTM Winner 5000 Posts

    When my dad did his he just moved the trans back enough to get in there. He also said that he replaced the front trans seal while he was there.
  8. zogg

    zogg New Member

    Last time I did a rear main seal it was a a lot of stuff to do but not hard really....had to drop the exhaust, pull the drive shaft (easy), disconnect the torque converter from the flywheel, unbolt the bell housing from the motor, block the motor, and pull the tranny. Take off the flywheel, and it is right there. On some engines you have to drop the rear of the oil pan. Nothing was extremely difficult, just a lot of time and effort. Certainly, replace the front tranny seal while the tranny is out of the would be really dumb to leave in the old seal and then bittch that it leaked in a month or two....ugh
  9. aloxdaddy99

    aloxdaddy99 Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    I was watching one of the power block shows on Spike a few weeks ago. They were building a motor and I believe it was an LS motor. When they were putting on the oil pan gasket I seem to remember that part of the oil pan gasket was the rear main seal. I could be wrong cause my memory isn't what it used to be.
  10. djturnz

    djturnz Member

    The rear main seal in my wife's 93 Suburban (350) started leaking. A buddy of mine that used to be a mechanic told me that some of them had a two part seal that could be accessed by just dropping the oil pan and replaced from the inside. How can I tell if mine is that way without actually having to drop the pan first. If the transmission needs to come out, I'll have the shop do it, if not, I'll probably do it.

    Does anyone know anything about this two piece seal and how to tell if thats what I should have?

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