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Rear wiper washer fix.....

Discussion in 'Chevy Suburban Forum (GMC Yukon XL)' started by flamecop, Jan 17, 2009.

  1. flamecop

    flamecop New Member

    Silly fix, but maybe it will help someone else.

    I could not get the rear washer to work. Today I took the whole bottle and pump assembly out ( which is really quite easy) and started testing components. Removed each pump separately, and plugged them back into the wiring harness. Both were working fine.........:grrrrrr:, so what is the problem? I took a look into the reservoir and saw that there was some debris floating around in there, so a good rinse out and I felt better about things, but didn't know for sure if it would now work. :gasp:here comes the bright idea......given the debris, I thought that perhaps the line was plugged. I decided to blow a little compressed air through the line, and I here a POP!! There is a connection in the line back behind the driver's side rear wheel by the frame rail.......with a little check valve in-line to prevent the vertical part of the line from draining back. The line popped out at the check valve. So I pull the check valve out and blow some air through while holding it in a rag.......out comes some black organic looking splooge into the rag. Check valve seems fine now, reinstall, blow air up to the wiper and out comes the washer fluid! :happy:

    Reassemble and squirt away!

    Parts required - ZERO
    Time 30 minutes
    Smile on my wife's face that it now works, priceless!

    Kinda silly, but it might help someone else down the line.:party:
  2. Springthing

    Springthing Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    I'm sure someone will find use with this input. Thanks!
  3. alpine2012

    alpine2012 New Member

    I'm going to try this... thanks. Also, intend to replace replace the windshield wiper fluid sensor (shows low fluid level on dash even when full).
  4. Crawdaddy

    Crawdaddy Epic Member Staff Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts Platinum Contributor

    Before you go replacing sensors, test them. Get a DVOM (digital volt/ohm meter) and test the switch. When the tank is full, it probably should read 0 ohms, also known as continuity. When the level's low, it'll probably show as a dead open. If that checks out, the sensor's fine, and it's probably the wiring somewhere. Start chasing it down and find the issue. A Haynes manual will be handy for this, as they have most of the wiring schematic in the back.
  5. alpine2012

    alpine2012 New Member

    Thank you - I'll try that... save $30 if the sensor isn't the problem. Let you guys know in a few weeks what I find out.

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