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Replacing fuel pump on 1993 GMC Suburban, 5.7L, 350 tbi.

Discussion in 'How-to Guides' started by backcountry horsewoman, Dec 16, 2010.

  1. backcountry horsewoman

    backcountry horsewoman Rockstar 100 Posts

    Pre-steps: Disconnect battery; empty gas tank (tank feels as light as plastic, but holds 42 gallons); relieve pressure; and raise rear end of truck up on jack stands.

    Step 1: If rusty, spray heat shield and clamp bolts with PB Blaster.
    Step 2: Place floor jack with small piece of pressed board bolted to it under tank and raise until just under heat shield.
    Step 3: Remove heat shield bolts and heat shield.
    Step 4: Disconnect fuel filler and vent line hoses.
    Step 5: Disconnect pump electrical connection & ground located on top of frame, accessible through the inside rear driver wheel well.
    Step 6: Place floor jack under tank again and raise until just under tank.
    Step 7: Remove tank clamp bolts. The clamps are hinged so once the bolts at the rear of the truck are removed, the clamps come off.
    Step 8: Lower tank carefully until you can see top of tank and sending unit. In my situation, the tank was stuck with crud and frozen moisture and had to use a pry bar to loosen tank to lower it.
    Step 9: Disconnect fuel lines and vent hose.
    Step 10: Lower tank to the ground. Note: it was tricky getting fuel filler & vent hoses up and over frame while lowering tank.
    Step 11: If rusty or cruddy, spray sending unit with PB and clean.
    Step 12: Open locking ring and CAREFULLY remove pump so as to not break plastic clip holding floater arm (like I did). In my case, I used a little JB Weld and a stainless steel zip tie to re-secure arm.
    Step 13: Switch out pump and strainer per package instructions.
    Step 14: Re-install using same steps in reverse.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Dec 16, 2010
    1 person likes this.
  2. stephan

    stephan Rockstar 4 Years 5000 Posts

    That's a good write up Janet. :great: Thanks for posting it. You did a really good job cleaning up your tank too.
  3. awheeler

    awheeler New Member

    I cut a 12" x 12" hole with an air chisel in the bed of the truck over the gas tank so I could access the pump without dropping the tank. Built a hinged panel for it with a seal that I could bolt closed. No sparks involved.

    1992 K1500 Burb
  4. stephan

    stephan Rockstar 4 Years 5000 Posts

    Welcome to the GM truck club AW.
    We suggested that to her & showed her the instructional threads here, but she wanted to drop the tank for the experience. Personally, I would have done it your way. Less work, less grief, nice, neat, & easy.
  5. backcountry horsewoman

    backcountry horsewoman Rockstar 100 Posts

    This is true. After researching both cutting access panel and dropping tank, I felt the best way (for me) was to drop the tank. I was leery to cut the panel into my burb as I was unsure of integrity of frame after as well as proper long-term sealing of panel. Since I use it to tow my horses, I was not willing to risk it.

    Dropping the tank was time consuming... but turned out to be a simple enough project. My truck is running great now, and is still in original condition.

    If my tank was situated in such a way that would require a lot of manipulation to (for instance) get it past drive shaft, I may have re-thought it. But since the 1993 Burb's tank is placed at the very rear/center of truck, it was quite easy to drop. I'm very glad I did it this way.

    Stephan is right... it was an awesome & fun learning experience too! :D
  6. stephan

    stephan Rockstar 4 Years 5000 Posts

    LOL Janet, the main reason you were sucessful & enjoyed the tank R&I & pump install is cuz you're a woman. 9 out of 10 men who did this for the first time, would have been cussing, throwing tools, swearing at God, throwing more tools, & calling their doctors for some valium. :)
  7. NRIns

    NRIns New Member

    My 1993 sub. fuel pump has failed so really whats the best way to do this ? Where should I get the replacement pump?

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