Starting problems

Discussion in 'Chevy Silverado Forum (GMC Sierra)' started by Soarer, Jul 1, 2009.

  1. Soarer

    Soarer New Member

    I have a 1997 chevy 1500 4wd, 305 v8, 190,000 miles,

    3 days ago, the starter would tick, tick tick, but not turn over. I hooked my portable jump box and it would start. Napa tested the battery and alternator.....OK. 14 volts from battery, not running.
    The fused link wire was corroded pretty bad.
    I put a new starter and a new OEM battery cable with fused link to alternator, cleaned the battery terminal, new fuel filter. I am still having the same problem. It will start if I hook the booster box, and the battery reads 14 volts when not running. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  2. Jimmiee

    Jimmiee Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    Turn on your headlights for 30 seconds to remove the surface charge and see what your battery voltage reads. A fully charged battery should read 12.6 volts.
    Next watch your volt meter while cranking. The voltage should not drop more than 3 volts. If it does then you have high resistance in the starter or battery cables. Try clamping one jumper from the starter body to neg batt terminal as a test.
  3. Trask215

    Trask215 Rockstar 100 Posts

    Maybe starter relay is goin bad. I was gonna say might be a bad starter connection but you said u replaced it. Good luck
  4. Soarer

    Soarer New Member

    Well..............the only reason I replaced the starter is because the guy at Napa tested the battery and alternator and told me they were good. I stopped at a battery & regulater shop and they tested and said the battery was 1/2 discharged. Went back to Walmart where I bought the battery in Dec. of '08, waited an hour for them to charge, wouldn't charge. I finally got a new battery, who knows if this one will go bad in 6 months. I learned two things from this ordeal, first, not to buy auto parts from Walmart, 2, don't put full trust in guy at autoparts store. In this case Napa. I have never replaced the starter on my Chevy which has 195,000 miles. At least I won't have to worry about that any time soon, oh wait, I bought the sarter at Napa..............

    Thanks for the replies.
  5. L0sts0ul

    L0sts0ul Rockstar 100 Posts

    battery from walmart? lets start there.

    if you have 14v on your battery sitting, it is overcharged, and you probably can see the cells are bulging on a side somewhere
  6. 2COR517

    2COR517 Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    I usually have good luck with our local NAPA. Jimmie has the right idea, I would follow his advice if you have more problems.
  7. L0sts0ul

    L0sts0ul Rockstar 100 Posts

    Think with your dipstick jimmy
  8. Mean_Green_95

    Mean_Green_95 Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    I never trust the guys at places to test the alternator, they always seem to screw up somehow. But I always buy my batteries from walmart and have never had a problem.
  9. ProspectorTim

    ProspectorTim New Member

    So... reading-between--the-lines.. the new BATTERY fixed the problem?
    That is kind of implied by Soarer's last post.

    FWIW, always check *everything* related to the charging/cranking system before buying new parts. Sometimes it is as simple as cleaning connections, tightening the bolts on the battery cables (and starter) and even tightening or replacing the alternator belt (or S-belt on the newer cars/trucks).

    Also beware of corroded battery cables. Sometimes, cleaning or replacing the cable ends can give you a false sense of accomplishment The corrosion may travel up the wires, under the insulation where you won't see it. Soarer's replacing the entire cable was a good choice.

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