Discussion in 'Audio, Video & Gadget Tech' started by staymad, Jan 28, 2013.

  1. staymad

    staymad New Member

    Okay guys, I know you cant have a badass Chevy without a Badass Stereo system to go with it, Ive always had one phrase in my head and it is " I like to give people two ways of knowing that Im heading their way, one by my exhaust, and two by my sound system". Anyways i just got two kicker 10's and a keenwood 1000 watt amp, and when Im driving down the road at night, my headlights dim to the beat of the song, I also loose power when im driving rather than sitting still idling, I know its either my alternator or my batter, but their both pretty new, any audio fanatics out there have any idea what it is? my truck.jpg
  2. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    This probably belongs in the audio section of the site?
  3. donyms

    donyms Epic Member 5+ Years ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    Welcome to the club, it's good to have you here. :glasses: I would probably put in a Capacitor for the subs and check all my connections to make sure they are clean and tight. Also make sure you alternator is putting out right.
  4. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator Staff Member 5+ Years ROTM Winner 5000 Posts

    **Moved to Audio, Video, Gadget Tech**
  5. Enkeiavalanche

    Enkeiavalanche Loving the Outdoors Staff Member 5+ Years ROTM Winner 5000 Posts

    Caps are a start but also known as Bandaids.. First off what model amp is it? Who wired it up? If it's the 1000 watt Kenwood amp I think it is it's about 300 watts RMS which is not much but fine for your subs..
  6. B Cubed

    B Cubed New Member

    What you need is an H.O. alternator. Capacitors and/or an extra battery just place more load on the vehicle's charging system which is already inadequate. Hence the dimming lights.

    Like they say... caps and batteries are band-aids. An H.O. Alt is the cure.
  7. zigger215

    zigger215 Member 2 Years 500 Posts

    I would stay away from caps, they are becoming more and more phased out due to a recent onslaught of testing which has proven they do little to nothing for a system. A big thing we tell people when they come in looking to do a system is, adequate grounding, a BIG 3 upgrade and an alternator if the system is too "out of control"

    When your truck is running, the alternator is doing all the work for your charging system, the battery is mostly for startup and the occasional of current draw which most factory alternators may struggle with from time to time.

    Consistently across the board customers notice a big difference in dimming AND how loud their system is when you run a bigger alternator from companies such as, Ohio Generators, Stinger or, my favorite, DC Power.

    Your system isn't big enough for this kind if an upgrade, I would suggest doing the BIG 3 upgrade. Using the same size wire as what's feeding your sound system, run a no wire from the + battery post to the alternator, a new ground from the battery to the frame, no ground for the engine, ground your alternator frame and also, bond your trucks body to the trucks frame.
  8. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    I concur with [MENTION=50750]zigger215[/MENTION] that the place to start is with properly sized wiring. Is the amp's +12v and grnd wiring 4ga or 2ga? If not that's the first thing I'd fix. (I run 4ga for my 750 watt, 5-channel amp, by the way.) If what's there is 4ga or 2gba, is it pure copper or CCA (copper clad aluminum)? If CCA, then consider that CCA should be treated as a size smaller than the same size pure copper, as it's not as conductive as pure copper ... so you get more voltage drop across a given distance of CCA wire when compared with the same size pure copper wire. (Pure copper is more expensive for a reason ... and worth the premium.)

    Next I'd proceed to the big 3 upgrade if you've not already done it. You can Google what this is and there are even Youtube videos on what/how to do it ... so do some homework on it.

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