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Suburban Fuel Pump Replacement

Discussion in 'How-to Guides' started by collinsperformance, May 16, 2007.

  1. collinsperformance

    collinsperformance Epic Member 5+ Years 500 Posts

    ok---on the next load of moving Brutis started to buck and jump and then back fire and die.

    I started down the normal check list air/fuel and spark. well there was a ton of spark (kids hit the key while i had a wire in my hand....dang) i was not getting any fuel. next look fuel guage (i know the day before i put $140 in the tank and it was @ 3/4 full. i hit the tank and it sounded empty - i then opened the gas cap and could not hear any splashing as i shook the beast.i thought some one stole some fuel.....we a call was put to my buddy with the 4 car hauler. we decided to see if gas was the issue and stopped and put $20 more in (less than 6 gallons) goo news the guage moved up, bad news the tank was now almost completly full. i was not getting any gas to the injectors.

    i hit them with the VOM and i was getting power and power pulses so the injectors were on no fuel. well towed home and looked over all power fuses and relays. good news all checked out good and it looks like a bad fuel pump---bad news tank is full and the is 40 gallons X 10LBS a gallon plus tank weight.

    well filled the bronco (33 gallons) the 60 truck and my 2 gas cans. jacked Burtis up and placed on jack stands.

    the 1st thing i did was pull the 3 8mm bolts out of the filler neck and removed the cap.

    i then removed the 8 9/16 skid plate bolts and the skid plate.i then removed the plastice tank shield and then the 2 -16mm tank strap bolts. i used a floor jack to hold the tank and let her down slow so i could disconnect all the lines.
    here is the hole where the tank was.
    Here is the filler neck and the filler vent lines. they were simply 5/16 hose clamped in place.
    next post..............
  2. collinsperformance

    collinsperformance Epic Member 5+ Years 500 Posts

    Here is the fuel main line and return and evap line and the power for the fuel pump and the fuel level.
    with the tank out i can pull the pump now. (i am stuborn and used the wrong tool for this job you should use a brass drift ot wood wedge not hammer to screw driver to tank---gas is explosive---i just was lazy). i removed the fuel pump/level assembly retaining ring and unit.
    the unit has 2 clapms holding the pressure lint to the pump and the screen to the bottom pf the mount. i unplugged the power and ground wire then took the pump out.
    the old pump was removed and it is seen here.
    next post...............................
  3. collinsperformance

    collinsperformance Epic Member 5+ Years 500 Posts

    off to NAPA and get a new pump. i looked at all avalable and decided on the BOSH gold pump it was a OEM upgrade replacement PN-N69238.
    i learned Chevy was not like Ford (Ford i got the filter screen and pump in one box) i had to get a new seprate screen, NAPA number STS-2.
    the new pump had a new wire harness so i was getting ready to install the pump.
    here she was ready to be reinstalled in the tank.
    the pump came with the new wire kit and the new tank seal. i then reinstalled the lock ring. i then reinstalled the tank/plastic cover/skidplate after reconnecting the hoses and filler neck. then i had to turn the key on and off 3Xs and i hit it to run and she fired right up. she is running great and allowed me to get another 9 trailer loads moved to the new place.this job took 3 hours (most was draining the tank) and not too hard to complete. final assestment. she starts easier and faster and the seat of the pants test shows power gains....but this is untested.........mike
  4. Davandy

    Davandy Moderator 5+ Years ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    Did that been there :lol:
  5. Cableguy

    Cableguy Epic Member 5+ Years ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    I've done a few of them myself. Nice write up though. Good job Michael. Shade tree mechanics the show would have made it look easier though :rofl:

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