Suburban will not stay running

Discussion in 'Chevy Suburban Forum (GMC Yukon XL)' started by bublitz3, Oct 23, 2009.

  1. bublitz3

    bublitz3 New Member

    I have a 1995 suburban with the 5.7 liter with close to 240,000 miles and still runs pretty good till this wet weather. Starts and ran then would just die but start again. It always had kinda of a chug chug when in drive at idle but really didn't affect anything and I see it is a common problem and seems to be a unresolved issue. I looked for broken vacuum lines and these things really dont have many, so I think Im good there. Changed the EGR valve on the passenger side behind the TP injection. I read that, that also causes stalling problems. Now it doesn't even want to stay idle, run then dies but its getting gas and I can hear the fuel pump turn on. I have 3 thoughts. Fuel filter? Or a manifold vacuum leak? Or a cam sensor (if it has one) faulting out in the dampness Any advise would be greatly appreciatted. I like the truck and I exspect problems with a high mileage vehicle. Thanks
     
  2. unplugged

    unplugged Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    You need to test the fuel pressure. The presence of fuel is not enough. You can test by spraying carb cleaner into the TBI. If the engine stays running on carb cleaner you probably have a fuel issue.

    Here is a post from another forum that may give you more info for troubleshooting:

    From: http://chevroletforum.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-4561.html

    OrangeBlood
    01-11-2009, 06:08 PM

    Lymanej - You have probably already gotten your problem fixed by now,but for those who may be having problemnow I have some information. My problem was a little different than yours, my fuel pump did fail, in my research I found that when these pumps start failing the wire harness will heat up and become brittle and the contacts in the plug will not make good contact and arc until they fail completely, my wire insulation was very hard and brittle.The new pump came with a new harness and tank seal from RockAuto.comand the installation is not to bad. I don't think there should be power there if the key is off, but who knows it is possible this is the short you are looking for, these pumps are notorious problems.I found out when replacing the pumpnot toremove the tank, remove the bed, (8) bolts (2)harness plugs and the tank inlet, (2) guys can lift it off, much easier than trying to disconnect the (3) lines on top of the tank and deal with all that dirt and tank weight.Also ifyour pump does fail you will probably get an error code of P0451, P0452 or P0453, after replacing the pump just clear the code, it takes a number of run periods for the computer to clear it on its own. This code is what I was trying to trouble shoot and it was no longer valid because the faulty pump caused the code and I replacedit,and none of the forums I read toldmeto just clear it, if it comes back, (probably won't) then worry about it. My issue stated below was caused by (2) spark plug wires getting burnt at their base, (second 5.3 this happen to me on)but I was stuck on this code.Desided to replace the plugs, and wires and the truck immediately smoothed out and is running great. (Probably shouldn't have said that out load) But, I still had the code so I wrote it down and clearedit with a Wal Mart purchased handheld OBD II reader and it has not returned. Side note, if you replace the pump you should replace your fuel pressure regulator located on your fuel rail, pressure should be 52-67 PSI and your inline filter. Sorry for being windy, but spent a lot of time on the internet piecing this together, hope someone gets some good out of the many collective opinions assembled here. And remember don't be a fool like me and overlook the simple things first.
     

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