The New England rust experience project!

Discussion in 'Chevy C/K Truck Forum' started by Bdiggy, Sep 25, 2011.

  1. Bdiggy

    Bdiggy New Member

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    I bought my truck back in April and fell in love with it. I have been contemplating for months now weather or not I should just drive it and leave it alone, or restore the frame and body since the engine is in great shape. I have not done a large project in years and maybe its time for a new one. New england has taken its toll on this truck, rust is rampant on the body and frame. But its nothing that cant be saved.

    So what better place to start a restoration then at the foundation..the frame. My frame is not terrible, its got alot of heavy surface rust deposits and pitting in a few places here and there, but overall the C-channel frame is in tact and has enough meat to last.

    I started off last night by removing the bed. 8 bolts (18mm) out all by hand. Couldn't use air tools because of neighbors. :sleep: To lift the bed I used 4 ratcheting straps.

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    After the bed was off I got it down by lifting one end and letting my girlfriend release the straps then I lowered it to the floor by hand.
    Picture of my rig:
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    Now im not sure how to attack this. I have some rust reformer that converts rust to primer, but i dont think it will work well for heavy deposits. So i got a coarse wire wheel for my angle grinder. Its working well, but slow going.
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    In some places the metal is really weak, this is part of the cross member.
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    I am considering dropping my fuel tank, maybe doing the fuel pump assembly here while the bed is off. Not to mention look at those lines! The aroma of gasoline can be detected whenever you walk by the tank. Maybe by doing so my fuel gauge may stop bouncing all over the place haha.
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    More updates to come as I continue this battle. wish me luck!
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2011
  2. ChromeSilver02

    ChromeSilver02 New Member 100 Posts

    Holy Rust Batman!!! It looks like a good project, I am just glad I live down south and dont have to deal with that on old vehicles. But I wish ya luck and that you dont find many bad surprises :surprised:
  3. Bdiggy

    Bdiggy New Member

    Yea, dont get me started. almost every car up here is like that. I would consider the rust on my truck to be nothing compared to some I have seen. I just wish MA would switch to sand instead of salting roads in the winter. It would save everyone alot of money!.

    Thanks and I will be posting some more updates later. Currently I am testing Loctite Naval Jelly. Its supposed to dissolve rust, so hopefully it does the job because sanding and grinding really sucks.
  4. ShadowRejects

    ShadowRejects New Member 100 Posts

    Ah man, now your wanting me to do the same thing your doing! lol! keep me updated man. i love your idea of removing the bed. speaking of, im going to pick up some spray paint tommorow just so i can clean the rust up on mine as well! anyways PLEASE take more pics! im excited for this! :)
  5. ChevyFan

    ChevyFan Administrator Staff Member 1000 Posts

    Wow, that's something else. Had lots of rust when I lived in Seattle. Don't miss it at all. :)
  6. Caddiac

    Caddiac New Member 1000 Posts 100 Posts

    Loctite has a primer product that you can get in an aerosol can that will react with oxidized metal to prevent corrosion. You might want to consider that as part of you restoration work. For the body to have held up that well with the amount of rust on the frame is pretty amazing. When I was in Rome NY 20+ years ago, you saw vehicles with holes in them. There was a guy I worked with whose winter rat was a station wagon that had a ratcheting strap that went in one tire well, under the gas tank out the other side and over the roof!

    Good luck and keep the pictures coming. I want to see this project as it moves along.
  7. TRPLXL2

    TRPLXL2 New Member Platinum Contributor 1000 Posts 100 Posts

    When we took the bed off my 01 s10, the frame was crunchy all over, but your fuel pump is the worst I have ever seen LOL! Mine wasn't even that bad after 11 Ohio winters, me and my boyfriend just picked up the bed by hand and took it off but I don't think I could pick up a full size chevy bed.
  8. tbplus10

    tbplus10 Super Moderator Staff Member Platinum Contributor 1000 Posts 100 Posts

    You might try using a needle gun or scaling gun on the frame it should do good on the heavier frame sections, I wouldnt try it on thin metals.
    I got a lot of experience my first tour in the Navy with needle guns while aboard the Saratoga (AKA Sinking Sara) and they work pretty fast, 1 person could do a 6x6 section down to bare metal in less than a 1/2 hour.
  9. Bdiggy

    Bdiggy New Member

    Thanks for all the advice and comments guys! I am definitely looking into some of those suggestions. Especially the aerosol spray and needle gun.

    I will have more pictures for you guys once i get more parts in. I found that I can replace alot of parts that are rotten with new ones, so i am saving up to get them. (shock mounts, spring mounts etc). I am also getting a new fuel pump hanger assembly due to the lines being rotten. Its causing the smell of gas to surround the truck all the time.

    btw :I am looking up needle guns here and there are few choices? Could you recommend any of these?
    Wel-Bilt Air Needle Scaler — 5 CFM, 90 PSI | Air Needle Scalers | Northern Tool + Equipment
    Klutch Composite Pistol-Type Air Needle Scaler — 4000 BPM | Air Needle Scalers | Northern Tool + Equipment
    Air Needle Scaler & Other Needle Scalers - Harbor Freight Tools

    Ingersoll rand makes a nice one for $200. but if i bought it, it would slow the project down. Plus This will probably the only time i use the gun for a long while.
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2011
  10. tbplus10

    tbplus10 Super Moderator Staff Member Platinum Contributor 1000 Posts 100 Posts

    Yea I R is probably top of the line and will no doubt last forever, but would you get your moneys worth out of it?
    Two reasons I dont like the Harbor Freight needle gun. #1 is its CentralPnuematic, same as Chicago tools and I never had good luck with them, I consider them throw aways or tools you buy to lend out suspecting they might never come back, in the end you dont really care if it doesnt. #2 is reason is the pistol grip handle makes a needle gun a much easier to handle.
    The first two would work great, the composit gun might be a little better in the long run as it could take a little more beating by being dropped and banged around and I suspect the hand grip wouldnt punish your hand as bad.
    I have a Wel Bilt and it's worked great for about 10 years.
    Surprisingly once you have one youll find other projects it'll work great on like cleaning up the BBQ after winter.

    Also if your not presently using an in-line oiler buy a cheap little one and put quick connects on it so you can shoot oil into your air tools every once in a while, they dont need to be fed all the time your using them but at least at the start of every job and before you finish just for a few seconds to fog them.
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2011

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