1. Welcome To GMTruckClub.com!

    The #1 Chevy Truck Forum Online
    Online since 2004, we are the #1 Chevy Truck & SUV forum and user community. If you have any questions about your Chevy or GMC Truck, SUV or Crossover, or just want to connect with other GM owners and enthusiasts around the world, you've found the best place on the internet to do that.

    Join Today ~ It's Free
    Registering is Free and Easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon!

Throwing $$$ at a rough idle

Discussion in 'GM Powertrain' started by Veritas, Dec 28, 2011.

  1. Veritas

    Veritas New Member

    I've got a 2007 Silverado 2500HD 6.0 Vortec with a PO300 random misfire/rough idle issue. 150k miles on the truck. I've read most threads on the subject (much appreciation!), and will try some more solutions today.

    The truck runs rough at idle, though smoothes out as the rpm's rise. One time, it did completely misfire and limped back to my shop. My plumber was driving it, and he didn't relay any more info than that. It often gave PO300 codes, which I would clear each time it happened. It is beyond the "normal" 6.0 rumble which many have mentioned. It is not currently throwing any codes, though it still idles rough.

    Money I've thrown at the problem without real success:

    replaced spark plugs and wires
    replaced air filter and cleaned mass air flow sensor
    visually checked for vacuum leaks and wiring issues
    replaced all ignition coil packs
    replaced 4 o2 sensors (no codes after this though I haven't driven very much since)
    had a new muffler installed... which lead my to this post....

    I had the muffler replaced yesterday and the catalytic convertors checked. One appeared to be ok, and the other was completely gone, with chunks rattling in the muffler. The muffler shop called and checked GM part cost. The driver side was $539, and the passenger side $1,050!!!(I'm in CA so they have to use approved cats :( which apparently only GM is. The muffler guy didn't think that replacing the missing cat would help the rough idle. I think it would help, not remedy the problem. My thought is that if the driver side 4 cylinders are running without the cat , and the passenger bank is running with a cat and back pressure, then the left and right banks will be at odds with each other.


    I'm at the end of my rope on this, and today will try solutions other here have posted:

    checking idle air control
    PCV
    check for manifold or vacuum leaks with carb cleaner, and torque bolts
    check for gas in fpr hose (help please, what is fpr hose)
    clean the ground for ecm
    check exhaust manifold and torque
    check vacuum line at fuel regulator

    If anyone can tell me how to do the crankshaft sensor variation relearn, I would really appreciate it.

    If these don't work, I'll take it to the dealer to reprogram pcm.

    Thanks
  2. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    Yikes! Sounds like you've got the basics covered and then some. Let us know how it goes.
  3. TRPLXL2

    TRPLXL2 Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts Platinum Contributor

    The Crankshaft sensor relearn has to be done with a scan tool i.e. Snap on mt2500 or Tech 2 or equivelant.

    fpr hose-fuel pressure regulator hose/line
  4. Boonduff

    Boonduff Member 3 Years 100 Posts

    Check the fuel pressure. These motors just like the 5.7L Vortecs are very sensitive to fuel pressure.
  5. wildmans92

    wildmans92 Member

    mY ADVICE GET SOMEONE WHO CAN READ MISFIRE DATA, AND SEE WHICH CYLINER IS MISSING, ONCE YOU FIND THAT OUT YOU CAN FURTHER PINPOINT YOUR PROBLEM, COULD BE SPECIFIC COIL, IF COIL IS SUSPECTED SWAP IT WITH THE CYLINDER NEXT TO it and see if the miss moves. keep us posted.
  6. ejohnson03

    ejohnson03 Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    Sounds kinda silly, but swap out the fuel filter.

    Had a similiar issue and this was my actual resolution.

    Cheap fix.
  7. Veritas

    Veritas New Member

    OK, so I've now also done:
    a very thorough carful smoke test with the a friends pressurized smoke machine. No leaks
    checked MAF sensor and cleaned throttle body and intake as far as I could get with deep creep.
    removed one cylinder head cover and checked for anything visibly broken (there is a TSB naming a problem with the valve stem heads breaking off where the retainer clip holds them).
    torqued intake and exhaust manifolds
    removed ECM and checked all pins for signs of oxidation or burns, opened ECM and checked for any water intrusion or signs of short
    removed new spark plugs to check condition (all looked equally good)
    rechecked wiring for shorts
    changed oil
    replaced MAP sensor (it was packed with grease)
    checked fuel pressure
    I also replaced either the crankshaft or camshaft sensor...

    Done within the last month:
    replaced spark plugs and wires
    replaced air filter and cleaned mass air flow sensor
    visually checked for vacuum leaks and wiring issues
    replaced all ignition coil packs
    replaced 4 o2 sensors (no codes after this though I haven't driven very much since)
    had a new muffler installed... which lead my to this post....

    I have an appointment on Wednesday for the dealer to reprogram ECM and do the crankshaft relearn.

    Man, this thing is killing me!
  8. Corso

    Corso Member

    Yep. I'd bet dollars to doughnuts you have a fuel pump going bad. Low fuel pressure will cause these symptoms and will cause it to throw O2 sensor codes when in all likelihood they were fine. Also, a fuel pump can begin to go bad, i.e. have lower than normal pressure for a long time before they crap out for good.

    You may know this already, but if not, there is a valve right on the side of the intake manifold, it looks similar to a tire stem valve. That is where you can connect a gauge to tell you how much pressure your pump is putting out. You want to be somewhere in the neighborhood of (someone please correct me if I am wrong) 40psi. Check that ASAP before you go nuts! :grrrrrr:
  9. Veritas

    Veritas New Member

    Yes, I pulled the throttle body off to clean the intake manifold. I cleaned the length of the entry duct all the way back to where it reduces in size.

    Your last statement is foolish on so many levels.

    First of all, at what point would you replace the engine? When it first had a rough idle, or would you replace the spark plugs? If that didn't fix it, would you then buy a new motor, or replace the wires? Keep going...at what point would you make the jump from a purchasing a $10-$100 part that seems likely to fix the problem, to shelling out thousands for "another" 6.0?


    What kind of engine should I replace it with? A pullout? Whats to say the pullout doesn't have a similar, if not worse problem? I used to pull, test, pressure wash, and pallet engines for a salvage yard in my early twenties. If it turned over and fired, it was a good pullout, sold with a 30 day warranty. Let me assure you that a large percentage of those engines weren't in as good of condition as my 6.0 being discussed. I surely wouldn't want to buy pullout.

    OK, next option..buy a long block???, Last I checked, they didn't come with most, if not any of what I've replaced.

    What if the problem was the ECM? The Fuel pump?, A shorted wire? A vacuum leak? and on and on.....

Share This Page