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torque coverter solenoid stuck OFF code...

Discussion in 'Chevy Blazer Forum (GMC Jimmy)' started by johndavis377, Feb 15, 2014.

  1. johndavis377

    johndavis377 New Member

    Hi, I have an 03 blazer 4wd. I had a code come up for torque converter clutch solenoid stuck OFF, well as I drive It shifts into all 4 gears but then when I hit about 45 mph or so then I have to ease off the gas to get it to keep going, if I give it to much it will rev but not kick down to pass for example, if I go up a hill in fourth I have to ease off to get up the hill. I have a hard time getting it over 50 mph without it over revving... History of the truck... it has had all maintenance since new at the chevy dealer every time on time.... what could the problem be? The abs light has been on and off recently but I believe that's a separate issue, the 4wd engages as it should and it runs perfect through all the gears then at 4th gear It over revs.
     
  2. Scott_Anderson

    Scott_Anderson Member 2 Years 100 Posts

    Well what you are describing sounds correct, your TCC lockup solenoid is not operating. It could be as simple as your brake switch is stuck(pressing the brake pedal will disengage the lockup), but your brake lights would be visible also.
    How is your trans fluid level, color. How many miles.

    Here's an interesting read if you want to do some testing on your own.

    http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/a/aa061701a.htm

    As you read, you can see that there are many variables that can cause problems.
    Electrical signal to the solenoid is not preset,
    signal could be going to the solenoid, but the solenoid coil could be bad,
    the solenoid could be stuck physically,
    the transmission pump could be getting week and not building up enough pressure to engage the TCC lockup,
    there could be a fluid blockage internal that is blocking the control flow,

    etc.... you get the idea.
     
  3. johndavis377

    johndavis377 New Member

    The brake light is functioning properly, the truck has 245,000 on it. The fluid is clean and full. The trans was changed and flushed at around 100,000 then fluid and filter changed at about 200,000. Due to the amount of miles this truck was at the dealer once a month for oil changes and required maintenance every month since new, I know that doesn't mean things wont happen but just to give you an idea of how it is maintained. I cleared the codes by disconnecting the battery and now the check engine light has not been back on so I have no new codes... should I change the fluid and check the pan? I don't know which electrical connections to check under there.
     
  4. Scott_Anderson

    Scott_Anderson Member 2 Years 100 Posts

    You could try and find the wire harness that comes out of the transmission and follow it to the nearest plug connection and check it for dirt, corrosion, etc..

    I'm by no means a transmission specialist, but you may want to consider a visit to an independent trans repair shop for a proper diagnosis. I don't know how much "unit repair" options you would get from a general dealer as opposed to a specialist shop.
     
  5. DaCookie

    DaCookie New Member

    In any transmission shop, besides Honda, the 700R4/4L60E family of transmissions is probably the MOST common unit we get in for rebuild. We love them. This is not to say it's a bad unit, it's actually pretty stout for the S10 series, (bet I'm the only one old enough to remember the THM200).

    If your vehicle came into our shop, of course we would scan it and offer to drop the pan and inspect. If there were no debris the next course of action would be to remove the valve body and check the plate for ball seat damage, inspect the casting for debris and check the valve. There are updates available for that particular valve train. Most of the time the valve bore leaks. This gives a different set of symptoms than you are experiencing though.

    That being said, if it were me, I would go ahead and plan for a rebuild. If the problem persists that is. I usually see this unit on my bench at around 125k to 175k miles depending on usage. Transmission and torque converter clutches are friction material. Like brake pads, there job really is to wear out, albeit much more slowly. You never know, it could just be a fluke, but experience tells me that your 3-4 clutch pack, and torque converter clutch are on the way out as well as a hammered ball seat.

    An established independent transmission shop is the way to go. Stay away from the shiny store front types that try to sell you a transmission flush. They either don't know what they are doing, or are deliberately trying to rip you off.
     
  6. johndavis377

    johndavis377 New Member

    Thanks for the info, it is still doing the same thing, it's not a daily driver so I just take it out a few times a week and it drives fine up until the torque converter locks them it wants to over rev if I push it. It has had moments where it was fine for a day but usually the same thing happens. Fluid and filter were changed and there was no debris at all in there. Every gear shifts smooth and then at 40 or so when it locks it don't let me go any faster. Eventually I'll put money into it, what would u say the avg rebuild is for these?
     
  7. DaCookie

    DaCookie New Member

    Average cost is relevant to the area you live in. At our shop, if you took it out and brought us the transmission, it would be around $650 - $1000. For us to do it all, $850 - $1250 depending on the damage. Closer to Charlotte, you can double that price. Especially at those franchise places.

    You need more diagnostics, let me look at a few things tomorrow at the shop and get back with you. There may be some sort of electrical cause on this late a model. It really could be as simple as a chafed or broken wire or corroded connection, but I hate to get your hopes up only to see them dashed.
     
  8. johndavis377

    johndavis377 New Member

    Oh you won't be getting my hopes up, even though it seems electrical or sensor related I already prepared myself for the worst lol. Thanks ya let me know what you find out it's much appreciated.
     
  9. DaCookie

    DaCookie New Member

    Okay, I reviewed my notes and we talked about your problem at work today.

    If you intend on keeping the vehicle around, I would go ahead and have the trans rebuilt with a new torque converter and get them to address the torque converter valve bore with the appropriate Sonnax valve train update.

    There is a possibility that you could just do the valve update and be all right, but odds are 50/50 that you would still need to drop the trans and install a torque converter. With the mileage, I would go ahead and look through it. Of course, without checking it first hand, this is all I can think of. You could try to find a good wiring diagram and check the tcc command wire for voltage at the appropriate time, but aside from connector problems, most of the wiring problems we see with this unit are with the trans internal wiring harness.

    Good luck.
     
  10. johndavis377

    johndavis377 New Member

    Thanks for all the help, I forgot until your ruined tcc that when this problem first started I had the codes checked and the only code was for tcc solenoid stuck off. I don't remember the code number but that the computer said that. However, the tcc solenoid can't be stuck off I wouldn't think because it does lock up, if I get it up to speed on a straight a way to lock up and tap the brakes it does disengage.
     

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