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Trailer Brake Controller Problem

Discussion in 'GM Electrical Tech' started by jerryacheson, Oct 20, 2012.

  1. jerryacheson

    jerryacheson New Member

    I have a 2011 2500HD with LML. The 2500 includes trailer package. I also have a 24' enclosed car hauler trailer. I've pulled it a few times without incident. All of the lights and brakes worked just fine. Last Sunday, I discovered that my running lights weren't working. I discovered a blown fuse today but haven't figured out what caused the fuse to blow. That's a project for another day.

    I also found last weekend (quite by surprise) that my brake controller isn't working anymore. I had it set on 6 and then 8 and then 10 and had no brakes at any setting. The trailer would stop the truck before when set to 6. Funny thing is that if I push the lever on the controller all the way to the left, I can feel the brakes trying to kick in. I haven't checked the fuse since it's a wierd shape and I didn't have a tool to pull it. What are your thoughts about the problem I'm having? Thanks for your feedback.

    Jerry Acheson
    Glenview, IL
  2. Welcome to the club!
    How old is the trailer? Check you connector on the trailer and use some electrical contact cleaner or a bit of fine sand paper on the end of a narrow slot screw driver to clean some of the oxidization or corrosion off. I have a 2011 trailer and the connections on it were a bit corroded since there is no cover on it and it is open to the elements. Last time I was using it I had no lights as you but no brakes as well. I cleaned the connections and dabbed a bit of dielectric grease and presto all working again!
  3. jerryacheson

    jerryacheson New Member

    Thanks. I've been thinking the same thing. Let's clean everything up and see how it goes. I know the electric brake wires are connected with some pretty cheesey stuff. Maybe I'll cut those and solder them together. The trailer has been around awhile. It's a '94.
  4. 87silver

    87silver New Member

    I've always found the issues with my trailer wiring to be with the ground on the trailer side. It gets loose or dirty. Sometimes it's within the connector itself. The hitch will never be able to carry the current, so this theory is out.

    If you need to do a dry run on your trailer brakes, use a traditional magnetic compass. Hold it against the trailer wheel center, between the lugs and have someone hit the brake pedal. If the compass goes haywire, then the brake coil is good, as it is creating an electromagnetic field.
  5. steved

    steved Former Member

    Check the trailer wiring for poor connections. I find trailer manufacturers like to use quick connectors, which corrode.

    I found this on two of my trailers...ended up soldering and heat shrinking my wiring...went from almost nothing at max gain to being able to slide the trailer tires when loaded at partial gain.
  6. silverhobey

    silverhobey Member

    agree with steved....those quick-connect wire joiners often don't make a solid connection
    after being banged/bumped around while towing....sorry, can't remember the
    actual name of the connectors.

    Brian from Canada
  7. steved

    steved Former Member

    Scotch-locks...
  8. silverhobey

    silverhobey Member

    thanks............much obliged for seeking deep into my memory !!!!!
    Brian
  9. jerryacheson

    jerryacheson New Member


    [​IMG]


    Yes; that's what's holding the brakes together.
  10. steved

    steved Former Member

    If so, remove those, solder the connections from front to back...check the plug also. That solved all my issues...

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