Transmission cooler install- 1991 Suburban

Discussion in 'GM Powertrain' started by Crawdaddy, Jul 5, 2011.

  1. Crawdaddy

    Crawdaddy ↑↑↑ Has no life Staff Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts Platinum Contributor

    On my Suburban, I'm planning on fixing my previous mistakes from my last transmission cooler install and make some upgrades in the process. So, when I originally put my auxillary transmission cooler in, I took the engine cooler out of the mix. Now, I realize that the aux cooler can't handle the entire cooling load. So, I'm going to put the factory cooler back in the loop, change out the aux cooler for a bigger cooler, and add in an external transmission filter. So, that's decided.

    My question comes in on how to plumb it all up. As it is now, I'm using rubber Automatic Transmission cooler line all the way from the transmission and cooler, and haven't had an iota of trouble. I still intend to go this route on the new setup. However, I'm trying to figure out how I want to interface with the radiator cooler now. I can go all the way to the radiator with the cooler line, but since it's rubber, it wants a pretty wide bend radius. I still have the original transmission lines hanging off the radiator. On my bronco, the previous owner put a cooler in and just cut the hard metal lines, slipped the cooler hose on, and hose clamped it in place. Doesn't look great, but it apparently does the job.

    So, I want a nice worry-free line setup that isn't going to get in the way too much. Should I just cut the hard lines going up to the radiator cooler and splice in my rubber cooler lines, or should I go all the way to the radiator with my rubber cooler lines? At this point, I'm leaning towards splicing in, I'm just worried about ATF leaks.
     
  2. Crawdaddy

    Crawdaddy ↑↑↑ Has no life Staff Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts Platinum Contributor

    I'm planning on using the B&M part #70274 cooler which is rated at 29,200 BTU, and the 80277 transmission filter. In B&M's instructions it outlines cutting the hardline and using hose clamps, so it must be acceptable. I think this is the route I'm going to take to make things easier on me.
     
  3. silveradotrailblazer

    silveradotrailblazer Epic Member 5+ Years ROTM Winner 5000 Posts

    I like to take a flaring tool and make a very, very slight flare on the tube and then put the hose clamp behind the slight flare so the hose can't blow off. Make the flare small enough so it doesn't cut into the rubber hose.
     
  4. Crawdaddy

    Crawdaddy ↑↑↑ Has no life Staff Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts Platinum Contributor

    I had thought about doing that, and your confirmation just makes it that much better. Thanks!
     
  5. Crawdaddy

    Crawdaddy ↑↑↑ Has no life Staff Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts Platinum Contributor

    So, I'm finally getting around to actually completing this project. I ended up settling on a B&M Universal Supercooler #70274 that can dissipate 29,200 BTU of heat. I'm also picking up their #80277 remote transmission filter to help catch particles in the fluid. For fun, I ordered an AutoMeter 2640 transmission temp gauge. I ordered them last night, so I'll probably get them in sometime around Tuesday. The kicker is, I can't decide on whether to order a new deep transmission pan. I found a transmission pan I like, the TCI #378014 deep transmission pan (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TCI-378014/). It's just that price tag that's killing me. I could really use the extra capacity and the finning to help dissipate the additional heat of towing a 9000 pound camper. It also has a tapped port for the temp sender which is nice.

    To complicate matters more, the $100 lower price of the TCI #378000 (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TCI-378000/) is tantalizing me. Half the additional capacity, but it has a drain plug and also is finned for additional heat dissipation. But it doesn't have the tapped port for the temp sender. I think I can solve the temp sender issue by using a T-fitting on the external filter housing.

    So, is the additional 2 quart capacity of the first pan I listed worth it? Remember this is for a 700R4 behind a Chevy 350 that will be towing 9000-10000 pounds of camper, so keeping the transmission cool is very important.
     
  6. silveradotrailblazer

    silveradotrailblazer Epic Member 5+ Years ROTM Winner 5000 Posts

    I would get anything that helps cool the trans. Also some deep pans (my B&M has this) has a threaded port to install a temp. sensor.
     
  7. 99'HEARTBEAT

    99'HEARTBEAT Epic Member Staff Member 5+ Years ROTM Winner 1000 Posts Platinum Contributor

    x2....On going with a Aftermarket Aluminum Finned Deep Transmission Pan, I installed a Mag-Hytec Aluminum Finned/Deep Trans. Pan......it holds 3-1/3 quarts more than the Factory pan.....I noticed a drop of around 10 Degrees in my Trans. Temps with the Mag-Hytec pan.....As STB mentioned..... if there is a Part that will help with lowering Trans. Temps when Towing install it.
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2011
  8. Crawdaddy

    Crawdaddy ↑↑↑ Has no life Staff Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts Platinum Contributor

    I figured more capacity meant more cooling...and I need cooling. Yesterday I was looking at the Mag-Hytec pan for the 700R4 (same as the 4L60E), then I looked at the TCI pan. I swear they're the same pan with just a different company name engraved in it. It certainly looks beefy, I just couldn't believe the price tag. $300 is nearly half the cost of a replacement rebuilt transmission. On the other hand, if it keeps me rolling and not on the side of the road, $300 can be worth it.
     
  9. silveradotrailblazer

    silveradotrailblazer Epic Member 5+ Years ROTM Winner 5000 Posts

    I've had the TCI pan on my '96 'Burb since '98 and its still hanging in there. I love the drain plug! I put the B&M on my '05 Silverado because it was on sale. The B&M, TCI and the Mag-tech are all good pans. I would look for the best price.
     
  10. Crawdaddy

    Crawdaddy ↑↑↑ Has no life Staff Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts Platinum Contributor

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