Newest Gallery Photos

  1. Chevy Truck Forum

    Welcome To GMTruckClub.com!

    The #1 Chevy Truck Forum Online

    Online since 2004, we're the #1 Chevy Truck & SUV user community. If you have any questions about your Chevy or GMC Truck, SUV or Crossover, or just want to connect with other GM owners and enthusiasts around the world, you've found the best place on the internet to do that.

    Join Today ~ It's Free

    Registering is Free and Easy! Do it today and we'll see you on the forums soon!

Transmission oil/filter change reference - Shift cable not removed

Discussion in 'How-to Guides' started by jnt412, Jan 31, 2012.

  1. jnt412

    jnt412 Member

    Like you, I like to do some research before beginning a project. The information I have found to do a transmission filter change on a Yukon with a 4L60E transmission is almost endless. For the most part the hardest task people where having was removing the shift cable in order to drop the pan and another issue where people rounding out the drain plug bolt.

    This past weekend I removed the drain plug, dropped the transmission pan, changed the filter and put everything back together with new fluid within an hour. Also, without removing that dredded shift cable.


    Tools Used:
    1. 15mm socket for drain plug
    2. 13mm socket for pan bolts
    3. 10mm socket for heat shield bolts (2)
    4. Short and long socket extensions
    5. Blow torch/Impact air wrench (if removing drain plug for first time).
    6. Crow bar or long screw driver (to move shfit cable).
    6. Rags and large drain pan.


    Before we begin, I want to say that this is only a reference. It may or may not work on your truck due to the shift cable being positioned slightly differently. But if you want to aviod those torx screws attached to the shift cable bracket, this could be your lucky day..:great:

    The pics I have included in this reference are not mine. They are from this How-To-Guide http://www.gm-trucks.com/resources/...the-fluid-and-filter-on-a-4l60e-transmission/


    [​IMG]

    1. Remove the heat shield. I marked it blue in the pic above. By removing the heat shield, it will give the transmission pan a little more moving room to get pass the shift cable.


    [​IMG]

    2. If the drain plug has never been removed use a torch to heat it since its sealed at the factor with industrial thread sealer. Move your flame around in circles on the plug and in the center (in orange) for a minute each.

    3. Use a air impact wrench if you have one. If not, use a regular wrench but I wouldn't recommend it. Its possible you might still round out the drain plug bolt. You might be able to have a shop loosen it for you.

    4. Once the fluid is drained and all of the pan bolts are removed, you should see that you have a little wiggle room around the shift cable, BUT there is a small piece of it thats in the way (marked in pic above in blue circle)....:grrrrrr: Look at the same pic above and you will see a blue arrow pointing toware the driveshaft. See where the arrow begins, that small opening at the bracket where you can also see a small bit the pan. Put a crow bar or screwdriver in there and move it slightly towards the driveshaft (arrow direction). Since you have some wiggle room, you shouldn't have to move it much and you shouldln't have to bend it. With one hand moving the shift cable bracket and the other hand moving the pan slightly over that blue circle, it should pop right past it. :happy: But be gentle with the pan!!..

    5. Remember, when re-installing the pan you will have move the bracket again to put the pan back in place.


    If you prefer to do it the torx screw #40 method and remove the bracket, feel free to do so buts its a PITA. You can't see the screws, so you will be working on feel alone to remove them with hardly no room to work with. If you happen to strip the drain plug the how to link above shows a method to get it out.
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2012

Share This Page