1. Welcome To GMTruckClub.com!

    The #1 Chevy Truck Forum Online
    Online since 2004, we are the #1 Chevy Truck & SUV forum and user community. If you have any questions about your Chevy or GMC Truck, SUV or Crossover, or just want to connect with other GM owners and enthusiasts around the world, you've found the best place on the internet to do that.

    Join Today ~ It's Free
    Registering is Free and Easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon!

very upset! (heater core!)

Discussion in 'General Chevy & GM Tech Questions' started by reggiecab2000, Dec 31, 2013.

  1. reggiecab2000

    reggiecab2000 Member 100 Posts

    well as i posted during thanksgiving break I successfully flushed my heater core which had been clogged for an unknown amount of time, and it has been working miraculously since, until about two days ago.....

    I noticed my passenger side of my windshield would just NOT defrost all the way AND when i turned the heater on it smelled like coolant, and the heater nor vent, or any combination of defrosting methods would work. well it wasnt until today driving my usual 23 miles to work in amazing texas drizzly, cold weather, that i kept trying and trying to defrost my windows short of rolling both windows all the way down, that i noticed the smell was just ridiculous, and defrost was not working in any possible way, i looked over on my passenger floormat and boom.

    photo 1.jpg

    photo 2.jpg

    here is how i drove 23 miles to work, it was very uncomforting...
    photo 3.JPG

    so now I am faced with the utmost reality of a leaking heater core :grrrrrr:, im sure all of you know what is entailed in this replacement of a simple $40.00 piece of equipment...

    PRAY FOR ME!

    i have seen youtube videos and writeups, and all the sort but am just scared to attempt something this huge, but at the same time, would not trust any mechanic to properly reinstall every single bolt and screw, because they always forget something small...
    what do you guys think i should do? do it my self and lose a weekend of my life, or pay the intimidating price of ($800.00-up) for a mechanic?
    who has done this?
    any advice?
    anything else that should be checked while this is being performed?
    god help me...
  2. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator Staff Member 1000 Posts 100 Posts

    when mine went I just put bars leak in it. It stopped leaking and was still fine when I sold it a few years later. If I was going to keep the ruck I would have fixed it properly. The only thing that really sucks about the job is that you have to evacuate your A/C system. Other than that it just takes time.
  3. TRPLXL2

    TRPLXL2 New Member Platinum Contributor 1000 Posts 100 Posts

    It's really not as hard as you would think, pull the dash out and the havoc unit is right out in the open. You can do it!!!
  4. RayVoy

    RayVoy Active Member 1000 Posts 100 Posts

    I'm with [MENTION=51590]Pikey[/MENTION], there is a time and a place for leak seal; but, if you want to tackle the dash, I found this with a google search:


    1. Disconnect the negative battery cables.
    2. Remove the instrument panel trim panel.





    1. Remove the following components, depending on how the vehicle is equipped:

      • The IP cupholder cover, shown
      • The IP cupholder Refer to Cupholder Replacement.
      • The floor console extension Refer to Console Replacement (Base Console) Console Replacement (Luxury Console).





    1. Remove the data link connector (DLC) (1) from the IP assembly.
    2. Remove the driver side knee bolster.
    3. Remove the lower IP trim panel. Caution: Refer to SIR Caution in Service Precautions.
    4. Remove the passenger side air bag module.





    1. Remove the knee bolster deflector.
    2. Remove the steering column.





    1. Disconnect the body control module (BCM) (1) from the bracket.





    1. Pull out the left side accessory switch bracket (1).
    2. Disconnect the electrical connections.
    3. Remove the IP Cluster.
    4. Remove the radio.
    5. Remove the HVAC control assembly.





    1. Pull out the right side accessory switch housing.
    2. Disconnect the electrical connection from the right side accessory switch





    1. Unbolt the IP upper brackets. Disconnect the wiring harness from the right upper bracket.
    2. Disconnect the following electrical components as necessary from the IP assembly:

      • The remote control door lock receiver, if equipped with remote keyless entry Refer to Remote Control Door Lock Receiver Replacement in Keyless Entry.





    • The IP wiring harness junction block
    • The right side courtesy lamp
    • The IP cluster lead-Unclip the component from the IP assembly

    1. Disconnect the parking brake release handle from the IP assembly.





    1. Disconnect the following electrical components:

      • The automatic transfer case module (1), if equipped
      • The fuse block from the bracket
      • The body wiring harness junction block from the bracket
      • The left side courtesy lamp





    1. Remove the nuts (4) and screw (3) holding the IP assembly (IP) (2) to the IP carrier sup

    __________________
  5. BurbanMan

    BurbanMan Member 100 Posts

    :/ hope mine doesn't go bad over the winter. Is be dumping a tube o alumna seal in it to get me till spring lol
  6. reggiecab2000

    reggiecab2000 Member 100 Posts

    Well I guess I'll be attempting this myself then.....
    but a little update as of now,
    So there must be some decent sized leak because right above my passenger defrosting vents the window is constantly fogged almost like there is constant heat coming through those vents, once my engine heats up, kinda right above where the heater core is obviously.

    And today about 2 miles before I got to work on my 23 mile drive, some kind of smoke starting creeping through my vents..... Not like fire, but possibly coolant burning off on something and getting into the vents, anyone know what could cause this? Once I got to work I popped my hood and noticed there is also coolant leaking pretty much right where it is on the inside of my truck but on the frame rail underneath the firewall
  7. RayVoy

    RayVoy Active Member 1000 Posts 100 Posts

  8. reggiecab2000

    reggiecab2000 Member 100 Posts

    can anyone reccommend i replace anything else while dong this? My A/C has always had a leak, and had a dye test performed at a local shop and nothing was found under the hood, so must be the EVAP unit behind the dash??? Not sure but speculating, just dont want to have to do this job twice if you know what i mean... dont know what else might be age fatigued behind there.....
  9. 99'HEARTBEAT

    99'HEARTBEAT Moderator Staff Member Platinum Contributor 1000 Posts 100 Posts

    A couple of items to look at replacing, are the Heater Hoses, and the Quick Dis-Connect fittings for them, where the heater hoses go into the firewall, and also both of the Cabin Air Filters,

    Here's a Video showing how to remove the Quick Dis-Connect, and the tool needed to remove them,

    http://youtu.be/MuQwkUEpTWM


    Also this would be a Good Time to Clean out the Drain Tube for HVAC, its number #35 in the Diagram




    [​IMG]



    Here's the Quick Dis-Connect Tool, for the Heater Hoses
    http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6046-Heater-Quick-Connect-Release/dp/B000F5HUTE


    EDIT.....I going to add, for items to look at replacing......the Thermostat
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2014
  10. reggiecab2000

    reggiecab2000 Member 100 Posts

    thanks for that heartbeat!, I just did my thermostat maybe 300o miles ago so it is good, and yes planning on doing the cabin air filters too, but thanks for anything else you can add, i will be driving to san antonio tomorrow just to perform this task so if you can think of anything else before me please let me know!

Share This Page