1. Welcome To GMTruckClub.com!

    The #1 Chevy Truck Forum Online
    Online since 2004, we are the #1 Chevy Truck & SUV forum and user community. If you have any questions about your Chevy or GMC Truck, SUV or Crossover, or just want to connect with other GM owners and enthusiasts around the world, you've found the best place on the internet to do that.

    Join Today ~ It's Free
    Registering is Free and Easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon!

Vibration at 65mph after transmission rebuild (99 Suburban)...

Discussion in 'GM Powertrain' started by cbdbcbdb, Nov 17, 2009.

  1. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator Staff Member 2 Years ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    I would love to find a shop that would replace/ rebuild one for that little. The shaft on my 03 yukon xl had a bent ear on a yoke. 3 local drivetrain shops wanted $400-$450 to rebuild it or to make a new one. The price was basically the same for both. I bought a cardone reman shaft from Nappa for around $250.
  2. buckmeister2

    buckmeister2 Member 1 Year 100 Posts

    I have had 12 silverado/'burb/tahoe 1500 vehicles, from '96 to '04, all with between 100,000 and 240,000. Two had vibration issues. In both cases, I started at the driveshaft. On one truck, the shaft was very slightly dinged, and slightly bent. New shaft fixed the problem. On the other truck, shaft was slightly out of balance, which had worn the u-hoints to the point of vibration. New u's and a re-bal shaft fixed the problem. IN NEITHER CASE DID I TAKE THEM TO THE DEALER. I found a local shop that did nothing but driveline service, and they knew everything there is to know about driveshafts and vibrations.

    I'm just gonna come out and say something that decades of experience has taught me. The very minute your truck is out of warranty, find a local shop that you trust, or a couple shops that have different areas of expertise, and use them. Over 95% of dealer work is warranty vehicles. They don't know crap about your 10-year-old, 150K truck, and could care less about it. IN VIRTUALLY EVERY CASE, YOU ARE GOING TO GET HOSED, BIG TIME! (my apologies to those fine people on this forum who work for dealerships that really do care. Those of you who do must admit that it is a rare thing).

    My issues were solved by a shop that was in business for nearly 30 years. That is not to say that all local shops are better than a dealer, or that all dealers are bad. It is up to the consumer to do some research, get on boards like this, and educate yourself. But, unless you have had an experience with a dealer that warmed you from head to toe, I would not trust them to fix my bicycle.
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2013
  3. TimTom64b

    TimTom64b Member 2 Years 500 Posts ROTM Winner Gold Member


    I second this... the drive shafts are balanced.
  4. burbmanic

    burbmanic New Member

    The biggest mystery in automotive history: 99 Suburban, 4x4 DIESEL...changed out the 18" wheels with 16", new pads and balljoints, then really started to notice the fabled 60mph+ shake. Since then, new tires, several rims, new rotors, wheel bearings/hubs, brake lines and hoses, master cylinder, balanced driveshaft with u-joints...I actually didn't mind since it got it in good shape except that damn shake stayed. Backed off the throttle so I know its not the tranny. Took off the front driveshaft, still there. Only thing left, differentials and front axle and C/V joints. When I unbolted the C/Vs, I spun the front diff flanges, passenger side turned real smooth, drivers was heavy with slight clicking sound...BINGO. Explains why the drivers-side wheel bearing was loose. My guess is front diff. still engaging/rubbing on one side which explains why vibration but also why so difficult to localize. Reason its hard to diagnose is that you need to run the axles so you can't easily disconnect the front diff. and test drive.

Share This Page