Well Damn..... (back to square one)

Discussion in 'Chevy C/K Truck Forum' started by GMANs95, Dec 16, 2013.

  1. GMANs95

    GMANs95 Member 1 Year

    I am sad to report that I finally got to work on some of the issues that currently plague my truck and I am sad (mostly pissed) to report that I am back to square one with the issues. I have replaced (with new parts) the multi-function switch, ignition switch and the brake switch, the only issue that was fixed was I now have hazards..(bright spot!?). For those of you who haven't been following, I still have no brakelights, wipers, cruise control. I also still have a "short" or something that kills the battery if I leave it connected. The heater is still an issue but I am pretty sure after I took the A/C control head out, that it is the problem cuz it basically fell apart in my hands....and after some investigation there are broken solder points and other sundry injuries.

    Open for suggestions.......
  2. GMANs95

    GMANs95 Member 1 Year

    Is there a stump the forum prize Steve?
  3. Conlan Rose

    Conlan Rose Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    Does this truck have any aftermarket equipment that is tied to the electrical system? Also have you checked all the wires in the cab, because the only time all those functions are together in the chassis is in the cab under the dash. I think there's a bad ground they share to a short that they are all affected by. That short would also kill the battery because the brake light switch always have power to it so the brakes shorting could cause a drain on the battery.
  4. RayVoy

    RayVoy Epic Member 5+ Years 5000 Posts

    Tackle one circuit at a time.

    The brake lights do not use a switched 12 volts. They will light anytime the brake pedal is pressed.

    It is also an easy circuit to trace. Are all brake lights out?
    If yes, the supply 12 volts, the main fuse and the brake light switch are common.
    Start at the brake pedal switch.
    One of the wires should (read must) have 12 volts from the battery.
    If you have 12 volts, the main brake light fuse is good.
    If you don't have 12v, the fuse, or the wire is bad.
    If you do have 12v, push the pedal, or operate the switch by hand,
    You should now have 12v on a terminal that did not have 12v before the switch was pressed.
    If you do not, you need a new switch.
    If you have the required 12v, you must have a broken wire going to the lights
    OR, blown fuses to each of the lights,
    OR, bad light bulbs.

    Good luck
  5. GMANs95

    GMANs95 Member 1 Year

    No there is no aftermarket stuff on here. It did have a remote start/security system on it, but it was meticulously removed when replacing the other stuff. I was hoping not to have to chase grounds but this look inevitable. I still have most of the dash and steering column disco'ed, so access won't be an issue.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Yes 1 at a time......

    I am sure the switch is good as it was one of the items I replaced. This was fun!!

    Yes, none of the lights light when pedal is pressed. The bulbs are good as I checked them prior.....blinkers work fine as do the "lights" when on. just no brakes...or "high" brake light.

    I will give this a whirl probably Sat as it is the soonest I will be able to look at it.

    Is the cargo light a separate ckt? I am not sure but I dont think it lights either...not sure if I checked this bulb.



  6. RayVoy

    RayVoy Epic Member 5+ Years 5000 Posts

    Just because the sig work, is not a test. They might use different bulbs. And for sure, just because the park/tail lights work, this is no test. These lights use a different filament in the bulbs.

    The cargo light is part of the interior dome light circuit. The middle high brake light uses the same housing, but a different lamp. On my truck, the center brake light is LED, but yours might be a regular automotive bulb.

    All three could be burnt out.
  7. GMANs95

    GMANs95 Member 1 Year

    I guess we'll find out this weekend....if the weather holds.

    I am aware of the double filaments.....I think in this model they are 1157's if they haven't changed the numbers.


  8. RayVoy

    RayVoy Epic Member 5+ Years 5000 Posts

    More likely to be 3157
  9. JTWard

    JTWard Rockstar 3 Years 500 Posts

    I'm 62, and this is really "old school" But it always works, 1. disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. charge the battery till it's got a full charge. Then in the dark of at night, and have an assistant with you . . . 3. touch the loose negative cable to the negative post of the battery. And listen and watch, something will either light up or make a sound. and there's your open circuit.

    - - - Updated - - -

    You should hear or see a spark or flash of a very small kind or a sound, but that would be your open circuit. It could also be a resistor of something along that line of thought, so to take one step further, you can try removing fuses. If you remove a fuse and you no longer get a sound, or hiss, then there's you open circuit. It's slow and methodical but it works. It's like a backyard Multimeter.
  10. csltrains96

    csltrains96 Rockstar 100 Posts

    If you know anything about electronics or how to use a meter, install an Amp meter between the battery positive terminal and the positive battery cable with the engine off and the ignition in the off position. Watch and see how much current your system is drawing. Then start pulling fuses one at a time and see which one reduces your current draw to near zero. Start troubleshooting that circuit.

    Another idea is to disconnect the battery completely, then remove all tail/brake light bulbs in the back, and all parking/turn signal bulbs in the front. Using a meter on the resistance setting, check for continuity between the tail/brake light wires and ground. If you get anything other than an open reading, or no reading or change on the scale, there is a connection between that circuit and the ground that is drawing current.

    Good luck!

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