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what can you tell me about this yukon xl

Discussion in 'Chevy Suburban Forum (GMC Yukon XL)' started by bmxkelowna, Mar 3, 2012.

  1. bmxkelowna

    bmxkelowna New Member

    [​IMG]

    Im going to buy it tomorrow to replace my 1997 3/4 ton suburban with the 5.7
    The yukon is a:
    2000 3/4 ton Yukon XL SLT
    2wd
    6.0 ltr vortec
    heated front seats, rear heating/cooling, heated mirors, barn doors, center console

    I will be putting a lot of miles towing up and down from BC, WA, OR, CA, any thing I should watch for?
    He says every now and then there is a slight hesitation around 60 mph under load
  2. moogvo

    moogvo Moderator 1000 Posts

    Without actually seeing it in person, we won't be able to give you an opinion. I would suggest taking it to a shop and having a pre-sale inspection done to it. It might cost ya 50 bux, but if there is a problem, a good shop will find it.

    Drive it and make sure everything operates correctly. Push all of the buttons. Don't just drive it to the store across the street... Go on the highway and feel for any vibrations and/or strange sounds. Let go of the steering wheel. Does it go straight or does it run you into the guardrail? What about braking? Can ya stop the dang thing? It is okay to feel a little vibration in the pedal as you apply the brakes. Warped rotors are common on these and are a cheap fix.

    Check the oil. Is it clean and golden in color, or does it look like someone fried chicken in it? What about the transmission fluid? Is it nice and red or does it smell burned? Those transmissions are not all that great. Does it feel like it might be slipping between 2nd and 3rd gear? The Sprag gear is a known weak point in those and will cause a sloppy shift from 2 to 3.

    While on the highway, watch the tach. Do the RPMs change a lot or does it stay pretty steady? Look under the oil cap. If it is crusty and nasty, chances are it was neglected on the maintenance side. Is the Check Engine light on? If not, does it even work? Look for it when you turn the key on. if it doesn't light, the bulb may be blown or missing. I would need to hook up a scan tool to see if it is throwing any codes.

    Crawl underneath. Is it rusty? are there leaks? If it is rusted, I would stay away from it. Look for wet oil spots on the engine, transmission and power steering parts. What about the coolant? Is it clean or does it look like someones dog took a crap in it? Look for signs of stop leak. Does the A/C work? Is the compressor noisy? What about the tires? are they worn evenly or are they missing tread on one edge or the other?

    There are a million things to look at when considering ANY used vehicle. Pull the wheels and look at the brakes. Jack it up and check the play in the ball joints and wheel bearings... try out the wipers... Go over it like it is an Easter Egg hunt.

    Finally, GET A CARFAX!!! A carfax will alert you to a lot of things, but do know that a carfax is not all-inclusive. There are things that carfax misses. If you are buying it from a dealer, look on the carfax to see ow many auctions it went through before you got it. If it passed through more than one auction between owners, chances are that a dealer bought it and discovered something major wrong with it and sent it back to the auction.

    How many miles are on it? Who are you buying it from? A dealer? If so, is there any warranty? If not, ask for a 5 day warranty. If it is truly a good vehicle, a dealer will grant you that.
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2012
  3. janikphoto

    janikphoto New Member

    The highway hesitation could be a million things, many of them cheap maintenance parts... Has it had new plugs, wires, filters, etc?

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