What's your opinion about body lifts?

Discussion in 'Lifted & Offroad Suspension' started by 2011laserblue, Mar 23, 2013.

  1. 2011laserblue

    2011laserblue New Member

    Hey guys,

    I posted a thread a while back about going from a 4" suspension lift from BDS to a 6" lift - I contacted BDS and it is do-able. I would have to get the 6" front strut assembly, rear U bolt and bushing kit , 5.5" larger lift blocks, and longer shocks. This will run me a little over $500 and a lot of work.

    After some thinking...I looked into zone off road (who to my understanding, is made by BDS) and looked into their 3.5" combo kit - which is a 2" leveling kit and 1.5" body lift - this runs at $200 + $45 rear bumper re-loaction brackets. So obviously a $245 investment with no where near the labor of upgrading my current suspension lift.

    So my question....how many of you run body lifts, and, what do you think of them?
    How's the ride? Are they safe?.....Anything I should know about them that I'm not thinking of?

    The re-location brackets for the rear bumper are for "for appearance only and connot be used for towing", I'm assuming that would be towing with a ball that is on the bumper, not a receiver?

    I do tow...not "often" but enough to where this would be a deciding factor if I cannot tow with a body lift.

    I would probably get rear wheelhouse liners to cover the space between the body and frame, so there shouldn't be an issue there.

    Thanks in advance fellas,

    LaserBlue
  2. TRPLXL2

    TRPLXL2 New Member

    I have an 04' Colorado 5" CST suspension lift, and a 3" body lift. I did the body lift out of necessity to fit new engine, the bellhousing would not clear the firewall. This is my first vehicle I have had with a body lift, and It rides like a wagon. It ruined the factory ride, I got mine through performance accessories. I also replaced ALL mounts, body, engine, transmission, suspension mounts with energy suspension and the ride is still crappy.

    The truck has a lot of noticible body roll, even while running 305's on 20"s.

    They wanted $200 for the wheel well liners, which is a ripoff. We bought some used one's for a silverado for $10 AND TRIMMED THEM TO FIT. I have also seen guys use a large flat piece of rubber, and cut pieces to fit.

    I also have a factory hitch, we had to make no alterations to this BUT it hangs way below the rear bumper and looks goofy. Like I said I hate the body lift, but I have to run it because of the powertrain.
  3. 2011laserblue

    2011laserblue New Member

    Thanks for the info...I'm kicking myself I should have just went with the 6" kit from the beginning.
    Actually where I really screwed up was buying a truck with 3.08's. I originally did not plan on doing any mods but I couldn't help myself.

    I guess if I did get the 6" kit I would not have been able to afford the re-gear at the same time to go along with the 35's...anyway. But either way, I'm kicking myself.

    So you would suggest just spending the money and time to upgrade my suspension lift?

    Gosh, that Colorado has got to be like a rocket ship...
  4. TRPLXL2

    TRPLXL2 New Member

    I had an 05 1500HD that had a 6" Pro Comp suspension lift, 5.5" blocks in the back. That truck rode like a Cadillac, It did not have a body lift either. If you enjoy how your truck rides now, then do not do the body lift.

    If we lived closer I would take you for a ride in the Colorado, you can feel every bump in the road and the body roll is kinda scary. I hope my truck is like a rocket, It still is under construction. I haven't even got to drive it since the swap.

    What gearing do you have now? I had 4.10's on my Silverado, and that 5.3 hated those 35"s lol!! I eventually went to 4.88 front and rear, yeah it was damn expensive but worth it.
  5. 2011laserblue

    2011laserblue New Member

    Oh I guess I didn't realize that it was not done yet. I've been halfway following your picture thread but haven't checked in a while.

    I think my ride is better now than it was when it was at the stock height - maybe I'll just live with the 4" lift and accept it.

    Right now I've still got the 3.08's...it really isn't "that" bad..but some extra power would be nice, although I'm not trying to race anyone. I was about 50/50 split between 3.73's and 4.10's - dealer recommended 3.73's due to the fact that I do a lot of highway driving at 70+ MPH..although everyone on here says 4.10's

    I'm still pretty undecided, what the difference will be is if I go up in height then I will obviously go up in tire size...and then re-gear accordingly, at which point would be 4.10's.

    I really don't know if I want to spend the 500 and time on upgrading my suspension lift...unless I get some other opinions to base off yours (although I trust and value yours) it looks like I will be sticking with what I have.
  6. TRPLXL2

    TRPLXL2 New Member

    I know there are a ton of people on here with body lifts, but the fact that your stacking on top of a suspension lift makes a difference. A lot of people just wont do it period, plus mine is also a smaller truck then yours.
  7. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator

    I had a 3" body lift on my 95. It was the first thing I did to it. I did not notice a major body roll issue. I also installed onme on my sisters 98 tahoe and did not notice that much of a difference. I later installed a 6" BDS kit and was running 38.5" baja claws. I purchased the fender liners to fill the cap and a long strait piece that filled the gap between the rear bumper and bed for around $75 total. They came with all the holes pre drilled and push in type fasteners. I bought them from a company called lift lips. I don't even know if they are around any more. Alternatively, you can go to a place that sells semi or large truck tires and ask them if they have any damaged tubes that they are throwing away. Most the time they will give you a bunch of them for free. Then you can use a pair of scissors and cut them.
  8. 2011laserblue

    2011laserblue New Member

    Thanks for the info , [MENTION=51590]Pikey[/MENTION] . Did you notice a large difference in ride quality?
  9. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator

    not really. The kit I used had a plastic spacer that was inserted in between the frame support for the body mount and the body mount. The truck still sat on the factory rubber mounts. I had seen people remove the rubber for some reason. Those trucks ride like crap. I use d an Performance Accessories lift kit. I just looked them up, wow, they have increased in price bigtime! Any way, if you are going to buy a kit I suggest searching very well online. I found almost a $180 difference for the same kit.
  10. 2011laserblue

    2011laserblue New Member

    That's interesting - which kit is it that you are speaking of? I was thinking zone offroad, simply because they are made by BDS(I think), the manufacturer of my suspension lift.
  11. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator

    Mine was a performance accessories kit
  12. aloxdaddy99

    aloxdaddy99 New Member

    In my opinion save up your lunch money and "do it right" by upgrading the suspension lift. As in Trplxl2's case it has a place. But I think they cheapen the look of the truck. I have also seen body bolts broken while the truck was being used off road due to the increased stress on the bolts. Your truck looks good as it is which is another reason why I would wait and do it right.
  13. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator

    I know that many people do not like the look of a body lift. I think that if it is done correctly then they look fine. As far as broken body bolts go, I took my truck offroad every weekend for years and beat the crap out of the truck, I never broke a bolt. I had some major flexing going on at times also. I installed body lifts on a friends f-250 and a jeep. I have seen the jeep rock crawl and it never broke a bolt. I also watched the f250 crawl over some berms, the body flexed so much that the tailgate creased on an angle from one upper corner to the opposite lower corner and the grill cracked. After he drove out of the berm area the tailgate popped and the dent disappeared. He did not break a bolt either. I have been to multiple offroad parks with probably half of the trucks there at a given time having a body lift. I have never seen a bolt break. I suspect that the broken bolt was not installed or torqued properly. Even with an increased bolt length included in the kit, it still must be rated at the same tensile strength and shear rating as the stock bolt. While I am not saying that it does not happen I am saying that I find it extremely rare and if it does happen a body bolt on a non lifted truck probably would have broken also.
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2013
  14. 2011laserblue

    2011laserblue New Member

    Hey [MENTION=51590]Pikey[/MENTION] , do you think I could fit 35's under there if I did the 1.5" BL?? I see a lot of guys that run the rancho 4" kit run 35's without any modifications at all???
  15. ChromeSilver02

    ChromeSilver02 New Member

    What is your wheels specs?
  16. TRPLXL2

    TRPLXL2 New Member

    I know you said your going to regear to 4.10's, but I think I would consider going a little lower in the gear range. 4.10's, 35's, 5.3 engine, your cruise control will be useless, I had your identical setup in an 05' model and never used the cruise. 3-4 shifting up and down, up and down. If I ever lift my HD I'm doing at least 4.56 maybe 4.88, because I've been down the 4.10 road.
  17. Sierraowner5.3

    Sierraowner5.3 New Member

    heres a question, if i were to do a 4' lift on my truck, and only ever have 33s, would a regear to 4.10s be enough?

    Alex
  18. TRPLXL2

    TRPLXL2 New Member

    The lift has no impact on the shift pattern, it's the larger heavier roatating mass. IMO Alex you would be on the border with 33's and 4.10's. Right now I have 31's and they're 10 ply tires, running 4.10's and I notice no difference and my cruise works fine but I also won't try 33's because I don't want the same issues I had before..

    I wish I could find my pictures I took of the inside of my transmission, when we tore it apart 3rd & 4th bands were worn smooth as glass. The guy at the transmission shop it's very common, but it takes a while for it to happen. Mine went 55,000 miles before it started slipping on the freeway.
  19. Sierraowner5.3

    Sierraowner5.3 New Member

    so, if i were to do a lift and tires, a 4.56 regear would also be required, got it.

    almost makes me wanna stay at stock tire size for a good while then. i was toying with going to some 285s when i need tires, now im not so sure.

    Alex
  20. 2011laserblue

    2011laserblue New Member

    I guess that will answer my own question when I measure won't it...ha...good call.
    @TRPLXL2 , I was told that because I have the 6 speed trans 4.10's would be sufficient - open to have you prove that wrong though.

    And @Sierraowner5.3 , I have 4" BDS with 305/55/20 (33)" tire and I only have 3.08's....you can obviously see why I am re-gearing. Do I recommend it how it is...absolutely not, but, it has worked "ok" and actually has more power than I thought it would...the only dumb thing is like TRPLXL2 was saying...cruise control is almost worthless on the highway...always shifting, and sometimes it doesn't even go into 6th.

    If you have 3.42's right now I think you would be okay...I believe a 4.10 would be "ideal" for 33's, and 3.73 would be sufficient.

    I'll quote SurrealOne in another thread of mine:

    "4.10's will be fine on the highway with 33's ... and will convey a slight bias for power. They'll take your truck from a dog to downright punchy off the line. They'll also provide enough of a power bias to allow you to move to 34's or 35's without regearing again ... something you couldn't do with 3.73's, as they're really only adequate for your 33's."

    "
    With your 6spd you'll do better in terms of RPM's and fuel econ (than his 4-speed and 4.56 - 5.3l) ... and you'll have less of a power bias than I do with my 4.56's if you go 4.10's. The 4.10's will give you low end grunt that you'll love ... and also allow you options that the 3.73's won't give you (i.e. upsizing tires later if you want). If I had your truck I'd definitely go with 4.10's."

    - - - Updated - - -

    Just took some measurements....

    From the Ground to the top of the front fender measured to be 42.25"
    In the rear it was 43.5".

    I think the only way I would be able to fit 35's is if I do a 2" leveling kit in the front...but because I am not exactly 2 inches higher in the back I'm not going to do that, I don't want to sit nose high.

    Agree? Disagree? Can I make 35's work with a 1.5" BL??
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2013

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