Yes, ANOTHER Pork Chop question...

Discussion in 'Lifted & Offroad Suspension' started by BigBill, Feb 1, 2011.

  1. BigBill

    BigBill New Member

    OK, I've been reading through the leveling thread, but I'm looking for answers to specific questions. Here goes

    1) If I use a Pork Chop AND I turn the torsion bars up to within 1/8" from bottoming out, how much NET (total) lift will that create?

    2) Do most Pork Chop kits come with shock mount extenders? AND, if I eventually get NEW shocks, would it be better to use a shock to travel the FULL length and remove the extender, or should I keep the extender or does it even make a difference?

    3) My 2002 Z71 doesn't have ANY stock blocks in the back. To raise the back to make up for the gain in the front (I'm thinking 2 1/2 to 3" block - maybe restoring a slight rake in the back) does the block need to have a wedge shape to fix pinion angle?

    Thanks everyone...
     
  2. TELORVEHC

    TELORVEHC Rockstar 4 Years 1000 Posts

    Answer to question 1: a leveling kit will net you between 2"-2.5" of lift, not sure how much extra lift the torsion bars will give you but if you crank them up that high your ride quality is gonna go way down. Answer to question 2: The only kit that I know of that comes w/ shock extenders is the ReadyLift kit. Not sure about the shocks themselves. Annnndddd....I have no idea for question 3 lol.
     
  3. adampaul1964

    adampaul1964 Epic Member 5+ Years ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    Pork chops, more commonly known as Torsion keys can have varying results depending on brand, the spring rate and age of your torsion bar. Basically each truck is different, and results will differ. I know from my experience that on a 1/2 ton truck shock extenders are unnecessary, I ran mine with lift keys and factory shocks for almost 2 years. But if was to have upgraded my shocks I would've certainly selected a shock made for 3" of lift.The keys come with a shorter adjustment bolt to keep you from over cranking the bar, there is really no need to try to crank them as "far as you can", the adjustment bolts main function is to adjust the height from side to side, the indexing of the key provides the lift,also stay away from cast keys, make sure they are forged.Cast keys are weaker and usually don't provide as much lift as the stronger forged keys and they have been known to break due to the tremendous forces that the key undergoes. The lift block I used was 3" and it was tapered to help pinion angle. Here's some pics to show the results I achieved, I used Pro-Comp's Torsion keys and Lift blocks from "Fat Bob's Garage"

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Here is the new key next to the old key.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2011
  4. silveradotrailblazer

    silveradotrailblazer Epic Member 5+ Years ROTM Winner 5000 Posts

    Check out ReadyLift.com, I believe they have the best leveling kits on the market.

    ---------- Post added at 02:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:03 PM ----------

    Also alot of the cheaper torson bar keys are made in China so be careful what you buy.
     
  5. BigBill

    BigBill New Member

    OK, so I cranked up the torsion bars (I left 1/8" gap so they aren't completely turned ALL the way) and I had 285/75 R16 Bridgestone Dueller Revos put on and my net gain so far is (including extra height for bigger tires) is almost 3" in the front and just under 2" in the rear. I'm figuring that I'll put a torsion key up front (eventually) and a 2" block in back for a total of almost 4" in the rear and nearly 5" in the front. I honestly don't know why I didn't crank the torsion bars sooner. There is hardly ANY difference in ride quality, my headlights actually point ahead down the road instead of down at the pavement, my front end doesn't raise when I step on the gas and it looks 100% better.

    Anyone want to sell me their old torsion keys?
     

Share This Page

Newest Gallery Photos